For handtool woodworkers: which bench planes do you work with?

[AJBaker]

I've amassed an all right collection of bench planes over the years. I have everything from No 4 to 7 by Record or Woden, a wooden jack plane (found in the UK, but made in the US), and a few continental planes including scrub, smoother, and several in between.

All these planes work well at their job, and I've used them all at various times, but when making furniture and doors these days, I find myself reaching for the same planes most of the time:

A continental scrub plane
A wooden jack plane
Woden No. 7
Record No. 4 (or sometimes 4½)

The first two are good for rough stock removal, and the No. 7 planes edges and surfaces true. It's a big plane, but surprisingly easy to wield by resting the heel of the plane against my forearm.
The No. 4 is then for cleaning up and rough spots if necessary.

My other continental planes are fine, but less convenient than the metal planes. With the exception of one plane I keep around for carpentry work (lightweight, cambered iron, big mouth), they rarely get used.

My No. 6 and 5½ work well, but they're barely any easier to use than the No. 7 and aren't as good at that job.

My No. 5 should in theory be a great all around plane, but I now find it to be a bit of a master of none. My wooden planes are better for rough work, my No. 7 is better for jointing and flattening, and my No. 4 is better for cleaning up at the end. I'm a bit surprised, as I otherwise think it's a great size, but I just don't really need it.

I still sometimes use my 4½, it's nice for smoothing big surfaces, but I could get by with just the No. 4.


What do you use in the workshop?

 

[thetyreman]

I've narrowed it down to a no7, no 5 1/2 and no 4/12 but sometimes use a no4, mainly when I want the lightest weight possible, I also use wooden ones, an old jack wooden one for hogging off a lot of wood fast and a high angle smoother for difficult woods like flamed maple or curly cherry.

 

[Cabinetman]

Furniture maker, no4, it’s just about the only plane I use, and all my furniture is finished straight from the plane, end grain, arris removal, jointing planks, it’s all done with the 4.
Ian

 

[Just4Fun]

For years I only had a #5 and that was fine. Now I have 4s, 5s, a 6 and a few woodies. Most of the time my choice is simple: if a plane is close by and sharp I will use it. Sometimes I want a specific plane but often any plane will do.

 

[AJBaker]

Furniture maker, no4, it’s just about the only plane I use, and all my furniture is finished straight from the plane, end grain, arris removal, jointing planks, it’s all done with the 4.
Ian

Do you also prepare your stock with the no 4, or can you run your boards through a machine first?

 

[kinverkid]

No4, 4 2/5, 5 1/2, and No6. I have another, damaged No6 that I use as a scrub plane along with a large wooden (No6ish) plane when I want a bit more heft. If there are several large pieces I may use a thicknesser and very occasionally a jointer and will finish them off by hand. For the small projects I usually make I tend to prepare the timbers by hand. If repurposing timbers like pallet wood I would give all sides and edges a once over with a scrub plane before using my good planes or planer/thicknesser blades on them.

 

[Eshmiel]

LIke the OP I accumulated various sizes & types of plane once the plane-bug had infested my wetware. They all got used .... but sometimes just to use them 'cos I had one, rather than out of necessity.

After some years I took up jig-making, something I'd looked at sceptically heretofore. Then I made some wood-bodied planes.

The planes I made are four: a No 7, a No 4, a large-bodied block plane and a low angle shooting plane. They all employ a Krenov-style body but with a Veritas blade mounted on a fine-thread Veritas Norris adjuster let into the wooden body rather than just a friction-fit. They live on the bench-back as they get used for planing 80% of the time.

The No 7 and the No 4 have bevel down configuration with the blade bedded on a 50 degree slope. This helps just enough with avoiding tear out in the mildly awkward grains, especially as they also have a narrow mouth gap and tend to get used to take fairly thin shavings.

The other two have 37 & 40 degree cutting angles and are used for small planing tasks needing only very light cuts; and on the shooting board.

***********
The plane cupboard still has several other planes in it, most of which get a very occasional use. A large Veritas shoulder plane gets most of that other-use, followed by a Veritas skew-block plane that's very useful in making smaller items that need rebates (it has a fence).

Many of the other planes have been supplanted by my self-made wood-bodied planes. I was surprised that these turned out so well and not difficult to make. The bodies are made of scrap hardwood parts but the Veritas blade and adjuster typically costs a total of around £60 - £70. Sometimes a metal-bodied plane comes out instead, when I have something with really awkward grain, as does the scraper plane.

I'm to lazy to use a scrub plane.

 

[Cabinetman]

Do you also prepare your stock with the no 4, or can you run your boards through a machine first?

No, I was trying to make a living so it was all put through my brill planer thicknesser.
I’m retired and moved to the States now but I still use the same method, scrub planes etc are a fairly efficient way of preparing stock but why make hard work for myself?

 

[Amplidyne]

Furniture maker, no4, it’s just about the only plane I use, and all my furniture is finished straight from the plane, end grain, arris removal, jointing planks, it’s all done with the 4.
Ian

Exactly the same. I've got a jack, and a jointer, etc. but the majority done with a smoother. Mostly clean up to remove the planer marks.
Like you, I'm a fan of minimal, if any sanding. Blurs the grain figure, and dubs edges over unless you are very careful. Scraper or scraper plane for difficult bits where needed.
Like you I made a living doing it.

 

[RobNichols]

I use a No.5, the most. I have a second one with a curved blade fitted (try plane?) that I use for stock removal unless there is a lot to remove when I'll use a wooden scrub plane. Then to get a final finish I'll use either a No.3 or if its a wide board a 4 1/2. So those are the planes that are on my bench most of the time.

I have a wooden skew mitre plane that I use for shooting.

I also have 6,7 and 8 but they are rarely used at the moment (I used them a lot when building my workbench): just when jointing the edge of a long board or flatting a long work top. I don't think I'd ever want to be without a long jointing plane, but I'd be happy to just have the 7.

I have wooden jack, jointing and badger planes. They are not my regular planes, but I really enjoy using them on occasion.

I could live with just the No.5 but I think I'd find having to adjust the blade for different tasks would be annoying. I find my work process much simpler when I have three plane to hand set up for the three main task - one flattening, one stock removal, one smoothing. And then get out the specialist plane for some occasional tasks.

 

[MikeB1972]

Just tried going though it in my head and I switch between a fair number depending on what I'm doing.
Most used are probably a Stanley 4 & 5, a wooden scrub, a wooden jack, a coffin smoother, a chamfer plane, a plough plane and an infill or two for tricky grain.


I'm willing to concede I may have a couple more planes than is strictly necessary, but I have used all of these, some more than others of course.

 

[Chisteve]

I am by no means a proper wood worker more of a hobbiest but I have the following
Made in USA Stanley no.3
Made in UK Stanley no. 4
Record no. 4 1/2
Record no. 5 that’s been broken and well repaired
Made in UK Stanley 5 1/2
Stanley 9 1/2 and 60 1/2 block planes

Most used 5 1/2 and 60 1/2

 

[okeydokey]

I quite like my 41/2 for most jobs but don't forget the humble No 3 its easy and lightweight for smaller jobs - I like mine!

 

[Orraloon]

20 or so years ago before I joined any woodwork forums I had a #4, 5&1/2, spokeshave, cheap block plane, and a makita electric plane. Now the total is around 45 planes. More a sink hole than a rabbit hole. I got the restoration bug and the bleedin things just bred like rabbits. Old woodies also came along and I even made a couple. They do all get a bit of use as I would not want any as just display items. Not counted is a box of woodie plane bits n bobs awaiting attention. Frankenplane bits box if you like.
Regards
John

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I've amassed an all right collection of bench planes over the years. I have everything from No 4 to 7 by Record or Woden, a wooden jack plane (found in the UK, but made in the US), and a few continental planes including scrub, smoother, and several in between.

All these planes work well at their job, and I've used them all at various times, but when making furniture and doors these days, I find myself reaching for the same planes most of the time:

A continental scrub plane
A wooden jack plane
Woden No. 7
Record No. 4 (or sometimes 4½)

The first two are good for rough stock removal, and the No. 7 planes edges and surfaces true. It's a big plane, but surprisingly easy to wield by resting the heel of the plane against my forearm.
The No. 4 is then for cleaning up and rough spots if necessary.

My other continental planes are fine, but less convenient than the metal planes. With the exception of one plane I keep around for carpentry work (lightweight, cambered iron, big mouth), they rarely get used.

My No. 6 and 5½ work well, but they're barely any easier to use than the No. 7 and aren't as good at that job.

My No. 5 should in theory be a great all around plane, but I now find it to be a bit of a master of none. My wooden planes are better for rough work, my No. 7 is better for jointing and flattening, and my No. 4 is better for cleaning up at the end. I'm a bit surprised, as I otherwise think it's a great size, but I just don't really need it.

I still sometimes use my 4½, it's nice for smoothing big surfaces, but I could get by with just the No. 4.


What do you use in the workshop?

I have more planes than sense, and have been reducing the collection as I head for retirement and downsizing. I should still have more planes that sense, but I tell my wife that I have tried

Coincidentally, I started a thread on another forum in which I have been selecting planes to travel to an advanced furniture making course (those who know me will understand this), with a view that they need to be as complete as possible to cope with all tasks, and be as light as possible to make the restrictions of air flight. This is an interesting exercise since it really focuses you on what one really needs - not what one wants.

For example, a scrub plane is not needed unless you are in the habit of preparing green timber. A second, radiused blade for a jack will do very well.

Now my list is evolving, and is now somewhat changed from those below. But this is where I started ...

Veritas Small Plow. A light and compact plough plane which may also be used for rebates. I could replace it with a Record #043, which is smaller but not really lighter, and the #043 does not have the capacity for the wider blades needed for rebates.

Stanley #604 smoother. My Stanley #3 is lighter, but this #604 is a much better plane. Why not a Veritas or LN? They are heavier. Simple as that. The #604 is a terrific plane and has a M4 blade along with a Veritas chipbreaker.

Left to right second row ...

Stanley #79 side rebate plane. This is set up for sliding dovetails. It is not critical - I can make the sockets for sliding dovetails with a saw, but the #79 takes up so little space, is light, and I do make sliding dovetails quite often, that it does not make sense to omit it. It can also help fit dados and grooves.

Stanley #62 LA Jack. I love this plane! It is light and nimble, has a low centre of gravity, and is so controllable when jointing edges. With a high cutting angle it will plane without tear out, and with a low cutting angle it will shoot end grain edges. Knocking up a shooting board takes a few minutes. Why not my Veritas LA Jack? It is a better plane, but also much heavier. And I do like using the #62 - it was the first BU plane I owned and how I met and became friends with Rob Lee (story here). I could use a Stanley #605, a general BD jack plane, but it weighs twice as much as the #62.

Left to right bottom row ...

Router plane. I designed and built this one. It is light - much lighter than a large metal router plane, and wider than a small metal router plane. Set it like a woodie with a hammer. Important for dados, sliding dovetails, tenon cheeks, stop dados and stop rebates, and other levelling work.

Veritas Pocket Plane. This is the prototype I tested for Lee Valley prior to production. I had the LN Violin Plane before this arrived, and sold the LN. This is a much better small block plane - tighter mouth, PM-V11 blade and proper Norris adjuster. It's a compromise insofar as I would prefer a larger block plane, but this is tiny and so useable for delicate trimming, smoothing, and chamfers.

Veritas Small Shoulder Plane. All one needs is a 1/2" shoulder plane for fine tuning rebates, and especially when creating tongues for drawer slips (I use a chisel for tenon cheeks).

I think that I may begin this as a thread of its own as well. It's not too dissimilar to this thread, but there is more that would fit in a dedicated, broader discussion.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AJBaker]

I have more planes than sense, and have been reducing the collection as I head for retirement and downsizing. I should still have more planes that sense, but I tell my wife that I have tried

Coincidentally, I started a thread on another forum in which I have been selecting planes to travel to an advanced furniture making course (those who know me will understand this), with a view that they need to be as complete as possible to cope with all tasks, and be as light as possible to make the restrictions of air flight. This is an interesting exercise since it really focuses you on what one really needs - not what one wants.

For example, a scrub plane is not needed unless you are in the habit of preparing green timber. A second, radiused blade for a jack will do very well.

Now my list is evolving, and is now somewhat changed from those below. But this is where I started ...

Veritas Small Plow. A light and compact plough plane which may also be used for rebates. I could replace it with a Record #043, which is smaller but not really lighter, and the #043 does not have the capacity for the wider blades needed for rebates.

Stanley #604 smoother. My Stanley #3 is lighter, but this #604 is a much better plane. Why not a Veritas or LN? They are heavier. Simple as that. The #604 is a terrific plane and has a M4 blade along with a Veritas chipbreaker.

Left to right second row ...

Stanley #79 side rebate plane. This is set up for sliding dovetails. It is not critical - I can make the sockets for sliding dovetails with a saw, but the #79 takes up so little space, is light, and I do make sliding dovetails quite often, that it does not make sense to omit it. It can also help fit dados and grooves.

Stanley #62 LA Jack. I love this plane! It is light and nimble, has a low centre of gravity, and is so controllable when jointing edges. With a high cutting angle it will plane without tear out, and with a low cutting angle it will shoot end grain edges. Knocking up a shooting board takes a few minutes. Why not my Veritas LA Jack? It is a better plane, but also much heavier. And I do like using the #62 - it was the first BU plane I owned and how I met and became friends with Rob Lee (story here). I could use a Stanley #605, a general BD jack plane, but it weighs twice as much as the #62.

Left to right bottom row ...

Router plane. I designed and built this one. It is light - much lighter than a large metal router plane, and wider than a small metal router plane. Set it like a woodie with a hammer. Important for dados, sliding dovetails, tenon cheeks, stop dados and stop rebates, and other levelling work.

Veritas Pocket Plane. This is the prototype I tested for Lee Valley prior to production. I had the LN Violin Plane before this arrived, and sold the LN. This is a much better small block plane - tighter mouth, PM-V11 blade and proper Norris adjuster. It's a compromise insofar as I would prefer a larger block plane, but this is tiny and so useable for delicate trimming, smoothing, and chamfers.

Veritas Small Shoulder Plane. All one needs is a 1/2" shoulder plane for fine tuning rebates, and especially when creating tongues for drawer slips (I use a chisel for tenon cheeks).

I think that I may begin this as a thread of its own as well. It's not too dissimilar to this thread, but there is more that would fit in a dedicated, broader discussion.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, very interesting!
Cool low angle jack, I haven't seen many of the original Stanleys, weren't they fairly rare back in the day?
Lovely kit!

In the original post I only mentioned the bench planes I use. If I include the joinery planes, there are also:

- WS78 filister plane (without fence, depth stop, or crossgrain nicker).
I actually quite disliked this plane for making rebates with the guide, and the crossgrain nicker never worked for me. However, I do like it without the extras as a normal rebate plane. It's solid, and has a comfortable grip that lets me really hog out wood when needed.

- Record 050.
Great as a plough plane, and also gets used for decorative beads. If I'm making a wider rebate, I'll often just cut a groove to the correct width and depth with whichever cutter happens to be in the plane, then take out the rest with the 78. The only thing I don't like is the crossgrain nicker: it's fiddly and cuts too deeply.

- Record 071
A great general purpose router plane, though still I'm missing the ¼" cutter, I'd like to find one someday.

Other planes:

- Block plane (Stanley 9½ or Record 0110)
I don't use them much, but I guess they're handy...

- Continental filister plane.
Much better than the WS78 at cutting precise rebates. Easy to adjust fence, depth stop and crossgrain nicker, and the skewed blade makes a clean cut.

- Continental sliding dovetail plane.
(A single purpose tool, but handy for that purpose).

- Wooden panel raising plane (or badger plane?)
Basically the same as the continental filister plane, but with a wider sole and fixed depth stop cut into the body. Again single purpose, and I could get the job done with my other planes, but it's handy.

- Complex moulding planes.
Great for frames and moulding.

 

[Orraloon]

Thanks, very interesting!
Cool low angle jack, I haven't seen many of the original Stanleys, weren't they fairly rare back in the day?
Lovely kit!

In the original post I only mentioned the bench planes I use. If I include the joinery planes, there are also:

- WS78 filister plane (without fence, depth stop, or crossgrain nicker).
I actually quite disliked this plane for making rebates with the guide, and the crossgrain nicker never worked for me. However, I do like it without the extras as a normal rebate plane. It's solid, and has a comfortable grip that lets me really hog out wood when needed.

- Record 050.
Great as a plough plane, and also gets used for decorative beads. If I'm making a wider rebate, I'll often just cut a groove to the correct width and depth with whichever cutter happens to be in the plane, then take out the rest with the 78. The only thing I don't like is the crossgrain nicker: it's fiddly and cuts too deeply.

- Record 071
A great general purpose router plane, though still I'm missing the ¼" cutter, I'd like to find one someday.

Other planes:

- Block plane (Stanley 9½ or Record 0110)
I don't use them much, but I guess they're handy...

- Continental filister plane.
Much better than the WS78 at cutting precise rebates. Easy to adjust fence, depth stop and crossgrain nicker, and the skewed blade makes a clean cut.

- Continental sliding dovetail plane.
(A single purpose tool, but handy for that purpose).

- Wooden panel raising plane (or badger plane?)
Basically the same as the continental filister plane, but with a wider sole and fixed depth stop cut into the body. Again single purpose, and I could get the job done with my other planes, but it's handy.

- Complex moulding planes.
Great for frames and moulding.

The WS78 was the plane that started the madness for me. Later I got a WS #4 and a #5. That set me off looking for other old planes.


Been a sucker for old planes from then on. I was lucky with the 78 having all its bits and the box. Price on the box was 8 shillings and six pence written in pencil. I had never heard of ws at the time and at first look thought it was a Record
Regards
John