Flush hinges for box?

[blackbulldog]

I'm messing about with 44x12mm pine and making a few boxes.

I've got to the point where I'm figuring out how to fit the hinges and want to have a go at both butt and flush hinges.

I think I've got the right size butt hinges but I've no idea what size flush hinges I'd need to properly fit 12mm wide pine.

Any help gratefully received.

Thanks

 

[Bingy man]

You could try piano hinge but a picture or diagram will help members advise you . All depends on whether you want the hinges on show as a feature or you want to hide the majority of the hinges.

 

[TheTiddles]

That’s a very small flush hinge and they aren’t a good option for just about anything. Butt hinges can be bought very cheap but they’re horrid quality.

If you’re practicing then a very economical thing to be able to do for the future is a pin hinge with an inset lid (sat between the sides and on the front/back). The pin can be as simple as a bamboo skewer or a bit of brass rod which is both very cheap and also a clean, minimal look that when well executed can be used on your finest creations.

 

[recipio]

Fitting hinges is one of the trickier jobs in boxmaking. All hinges are ' flush ' in that they are let into a small rebate. One easy trick is to fit the hinges with the lid on perfectly, lift the lid carefully and apply a little superglue to hold the hinge in place. Drill the screw holes carefully ,ideally with one of those center finding drill bits.
I suspect when you say ' flush ' you are thinking of 'side rail ' hinges mounted on the 12mm sides. Most people advise routing the rebates with an 8 mm bit on the router table. This will work to an extent but involves ' backrouting ' two of the rebates which can be a white knuckle experience.
If you get into boxmaking Rockler in the US market a terrific ' jig It ' template for routing the rebates for side rail hinges. I know its more stuff to buy but it really takes the pain out of routing the rebates for them.

 

[blackbulldog]

That’s a very small flush hinge and they aren’t a good option for just about anything. Butt hinges can be bought very cheap but they’re horrid quality.

If you’re practicing then a very economical thing to be able to do for the future is a pin hinge with an inset lid (sat between the sides and on the front/back). The pin can be as simple as a bamboo skewer or a bit of brass rod which is both very cheap and also a clean, minimal look that when well executed can be used on your finest creations.

I am just practicing to see what I can do really, gluing the sides, back front together then gluing the top and bottom on. Really basic. I like the idea of an inset lid and pin hinges... How are the pins fixed in place?

 

[blackbulldog]

You could try piano hinge but a picture or diagram will help members advise you . All depends on whether you want the hinges on show as a feature or you want to hide the majority of the hinges.

Thanks.

I'll post a picture tomorrow. I'm not bothered about the hinge being on show, I've just watched a Matt Estlea video on hinges and would be delighted to get them looking anything like that

 

[blackbulldog]

Fitting hinges is one of the trickier jobs in boxmaking. All hinges are ' flush ' in that they are let into a small rebate. One easy trick is to fit the hinges with the lid on perfectly, lift the lid carefully and apply a little superglue to hold the hinge in place. Drill the screw holes carefully ,ideally with one of those center finding drill bits.
I suspect when you say ' flush ' you are thinking of 'side rail ' hinges mounted on the 12mm sides. Most people advise routing the rebates with an 8 mm bit on the router table. This will work to an extent but involves ' backrouting ' two of the rebates which can be a white knuckle experience.
If you get into boxmaking Rockler in the US market a terrific ' jig It ' template for routing the rebates for side rail hinges. I know its more stuff to buy but it really takes the pain out of routing the rebates for them.

I don't understand your first two paragraphs, that's how little I know about this stuff.

I looked at the rockler jig it and the site says $69.99 + estimated duty etc of £29 ish.

I can't justify the thick end of a ton too mess about, wish I could though.

 

[Lonsdale73]

 

[recipio]

I don't understand your first two paragraphs, that's how little I know about this stuff.

I looked at the rockler jig it and the site says $69.99 + estimated duty etc of £29 ish.

I can't justify the thick end of a ton too mess about, wish I could though.

As a beginner I would advise you to stick to plain butt hinges. You can't just screw them to the back edges of the box and lid - it would create a gap at the back of the lid.. You need to cut a small rebate / mortise to accept the hinge and mount it flush with the top edges. If not done accurately the lid will overhang or sit askew on the rest of the box which is very annoying and a pain to correct. ( You do know you have to make the box and then cut off the lid off to get an accurate fit )
As for the Rockler jig I threw it in as few people know about it. Even seasoned boxmakers like Andrew Crawford still use the router table method. As it's for fitting ( expensive ) side rail hinges so not for everybody.

 

[blackbulldog]

That's fantastic, thanks.

I reckon even I could make that simple jig.
That's this afternoon sorted!

 

[TheTiddles]

I am just practicing to see what I can do really, gluing the sides, back front together then gluing the top and bottom on. Really basic. I like the idea of an inset lid and pin hinges... How are the pins fixed in place?

However you like, glue is a common method but friction fit works too