Flatish roof garage

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ChiefBot123

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Hello to all.
I’d be obliged for any comments please.
This flat roof garage (small slope on roof) built in1980’s ? was part of a recent property purchase,
Having had the corrugated asbestos cement roof removed the beam arrangement is as shown, and corrosion on the hangers.
6 Beams are 42mm x 122mm with a 3m span
Nominal spaces are 113cm, 123cm,60cm, 60cm, 132cm, 118cm.
Leaky roof has caused some beam rotting.
It doesn’t look to latest standards
Any suggestions regards new roof please

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If it was me I would probably knock it down and replace it with a timber or sips building, then you can make it insulated and waterproof.
But if you need to keep the existing sides I would fix some kind of ring beam around the top to your desired angle, fix joists and put an OSB 3 deck on.
Fibreglass or epdm roof should be fine. I would not advise felt, it is cheap but not worth the saving in my experience.
 
Google Concrete Panel Shed loads of images might give you some ideas.
Roof finish depends on how much you wish to spend - I would go with a pent roof OSB boarded with proper epdm roof. avoid roofing felt if you can afford better but if not thats the way to go - not garden shed quality.
 
If you are going to be working in there regularly as a workshop I would suggest, OSB,50mm celotex,OSB then EPDM. It’s not difficult for any competent diy’er. The insulation will help to keep it cool in summer.
 
Another vote for EDPM. I went for a fibre-glass roof on a timber building and it's constantly cracking.
 
Another vote for EDPM. I went for a fibre-glass roof on a timber building and it's constantly cracking.
This is a little worrying, I am about to build a 9m by 6.5m car port roof and was going to use fibreglass. I have done both epdm and fibreglass before with no issues, though not as big as this.
The fibreglass supplier said that it should be fine not to add expansion joints if under 100m2 so we are well under that.
Can you explain the cracking problem, does your roof have walls on some sides or is it free standing?

The reason I wanted to do fibreglass over epdm is the cheaper cost and also the weight and awkwardness of getting the rubber up there.

Ollie
 
Thanks for all your replies.
There is about a 6 deg slope at the moment.
If I go with the Epdm roof do i
Keep existing hangers and install new 42 x 122 beams to start off.
Or fit new hangers and new beams, if so any suggestion for size please
Thanks
 
This is a little worrying, I am about to build a 9m by 6.5m car port roof and was going to use fibreglass. I have done both epdm and fibreglass before with no issues, though not as big as this.
The fibreglass supplier said that it should be fine not to add expansion joints if under 100m2 so we are well under that.
Can you explain the cracking problem, does your roof have walls on some sides or is it free standing?

The reason I wanted to do fibreglass over epdm is the cheaper cost and also the weight and awkwardness of getting the rubber up there.

Ollie
Yes it does. Wooden framed panels with glass. Glu-lams supporting a large central lantern. The fibreglass was reinforced with matting as per usual. But I confess that this was my first fibreglass roof and so could well be down to me. Reason I went for fibeglass was that I wanted a light colour and EDPM was grey.
 
Thanks for all your replies.
There is about a 6 deg slope at the moment.
If I go with the Epdm roof do i
Keep existing hangers and install new 42 x 122 beams to start off.
Or fit new hangers and new beams, if so any suggestion for size please
Thanks
How does EDPM weight-wise compare with the original roof. If a lot heavier, I'd be tempted to slightly increase the slope. What are the dimensions of your shed ?

Out of curiosity, I can't see any fixing of the beams into the hangers. If so then what's stopping the walls falling out at the top ? A rin beam has already been mentioned in another post.
 
Yes it does. Wooden framed panels with glass. Glu-lams supporting a large central lantern. The fibreglass was reinforced with matting as per usual. But I confess that this was my first fibreglass roof and so could well be down to me. Reason I went for fibeglass was that I wanted a light colour and EDPM was grey.
Ok, thanks. Maybe I will be ok as the roof I am doing is open on all sides. Fingers crossed....
 
How does EDPM weight-wise compare with the original roof. If a lot heavier, I'd be tempted to slightly increase the slope. What are the dimensions of your shed ?

Out of curiosity, I can't see any fixing of the beams into the hangers. If so then what's stopping the walls falling out at the top ? A rin beam has already been mentioned in another post.
Thx for that
6.07m long x 3.03m wide.
Panels are 2.24m high at front lhs dropping to 2.01m high at rear rhs.
So 23cm over 6.07m
As the beams are set a bit higher than the panels, fall is actually 27cm over 6.07m
There is a nail in the bottom of the hanger into the beam.
A ring beam looks interesting maybe fixed to the inside at the top of the panels and fixed using the current hanger fixing holes, removing the hangers,,would 50 x 75 be ok for that
 
And add more beams than whats there.
Might be the pic but the original roof looks to show some sagging.
Yes, I’ve had the spirit level on the beams underneath, and there is bowing a bit.
Would I need to keep to trade table beam sizes?
 
Yes, I’ve had the spirit level on the beams underneath, and there is bowing a bit.
Would I need to keep to trade table beam sizes?
I don't think sagging across the width is going to be an issue since the slope is at 90 degrees to the width. You just need to make sure that there is no sag down the legnth otherwise you'll have a nice pond.

Looking at your first photos again I would definitely put in extra beams to fill the 'gaps' where they dont exist. I'd also beef up the beam across the doorway. You could consider fixing new straighter beams to the sides of the existing ones but TBH if it was me, I'd rip off the whole lot, hangers and beams and do a proper job. Piece of mind and all.
 
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