Fixing base units to aircrete wall with dot and dab?

[scubadoo]

Any advice on doing this?

I was planning on using space plugs to fix my birch ply base units. The wall is aircrete block with about an inch of dab/cavity then plasterboard. The back of the cabinet will be about 35-40mm from the wall.

I've used Rigifix before when fixing units dirctly to the plasterboard and they work great but I'm not sure if I'll be able to find long enough machine screws that could go through the back of the unit, the gap, the plasterboard/cavity and get a deep enough fix into the rigifix sleeve. Or i could fix a batten on the plasterboard using the rigifix and the screw into that using spaceplugs if needed but there might not be enough 'space'?

Any suggestions?

Cheers
Dave

 

[scubadoo]

Or should i just drill through the back of the units and into the aircrete and use a fischer plug like this and then a space plug for the 35-40mm gap? It's not like there will be any force trying to pull them out; and they'll have granite tops on them.

http://www.tooled-up.com/product/fische ... 50/159152/

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - when doing something similar in the past, I cut out a horizontal rectangle out of the plasterboard and inserted a batten to fit the hole - the batten thickness was made to fit the air gap plus plasterboard/skim so it ended up flush with the rest of the wall. I then used ordinary hammer fixings like the fisher ones you link to - the thicker the better to maximise pull-out resistance. Then just fix to the batten. Cheers, W2S

 

[scubadoo]

After a bit more research I've decided to try the Dryline Pro and space plugs. The dryline has the advantage of using standard 5mm screws but for really heavy stuff i'll probably stick with the big Rigifix,

 

[Beau]

Was going to suggest Dryline pro as you can use whatever length screws you want.

 

[woodpig]

Aren't modern houses and modern kitchens a PITA!? :lol: many years back I saw some free standing solid oak base units in M&S of all places. They had adjustable steel legs with sliding stainless steel covers. Expensive but good quality. Of course you need a floor that's been properly tiled all the way across if you want to avoid naff chipboard kickers. :wink:

 

[chippy1970]

I normally just use a smaller drill bit so the plug is tighter . 6mm and 7mm brown plug will do the trick. Spaceplugs are a good idea they come with a 6mm bit.

Helps if the dot n dab has been done probably with plenty of dabs. If you're that bothered cut out with a holesaw then fix solid timber or plywood direct to the blockwork flush with the surface.

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk