Fixing a crack in a worktop

[siggy_7]

I'm close to finishing the piece of worktop that will go around my new kitchen sink, and after finishing the cut out I've noticed a crack in the end of one of the staves which unfortunately faces onto the sink (it's an undermount belfast type sink). You can see the crack in the attached, which extends a couple of inches back into the worktop. It's a solid sapele top (40mm thick).

Recognising that this couldn't be in a worse place for potential water ingress issues, what are my options for making good before I oil the top? I was thinking of mixing up some lecol 7500 with fine sapele dust, then opening up the crack gently with a fine blade and forcing as much in as possible. Is this a wise idea, are there better alternatives, or is the worktop just doomed to have an issue there?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeG.]

I wouldn't be using a filler, I'd use a glue.

 

[Racers]

Oil and sawdust would be my first choice, it wouldn't affect your finish and should penatrate deeply into the crack.

Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It's an under mounted sink, so the edge will get wet. Get as much epoxy in it as is possible.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I assume you're going to attempt to waterproof the endgrain? It'll go black if steel comes into contact with it when wet.

 

[Beau]

It's an under mounted sink, so the edge will get wet. Get as much epoxy in it as is possible.

This.

An old feeler gauge can make a good applicator into fine cracks

 

[siggy_7]

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll use the epoxy option, I'll need to get some in as I normally use JB Weld for small repairs of household items and I don't fancy the look of that for this job! I think a clear epoxy would look best in this case, any particular product recommendations?

Good tip too on the feeler gauge; I'll sacrifice a leaf from my old cheap gauge. Regarding sealing the end grain, it is being treated with several coats of Polyx oil once the crack has been sealed up.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[Orraloon]

I agree that epoxy is the best filler and also waterproof. Heat helps it flow into cracks so first warm up the wood with a heat gun or hair drier. That and the feeler gauge should get it done.
Regards
John

 

[stuartpaul]

Another for epoxy as well but be aware that if you get it on other areas of end grain you may end up with problems with your finish and it will 'grin' through.

I've use pound shop epoxy with success and you could also use it to seal all the end grain at the same time?

 

[Racers]

Another for epoxy as well but be aware that if you get it on other areas of end grain you may end up with problems with your finish and it will 'grin' through.

I've use pound shop epoxy with success and you could also use it to seal all the end grain at the same time?

That is why I suggested sawdust and oil.
I have used it my self on worktops.

Pete