Fitting drawers - wider at the back?

[Racers]

More evidence of Jacobs almost divine like perfection.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

More evidence of Jacobs almost divine like perfection.

Pete

I'm just trying to help with your drawer problem. :lol:
I've though of another one - a piece of string attached by staples to the back of the drawer and the back of the chest. What could be simpler? Could also work a little bell or a visual indicator?

 

[bugbear]

More evidence of Jacobs almost divine like perfection.

Pete

I'm just trying to help with your drawer problem. :lol:
I've though of another one - a piece of string attached by staples to the back of the drawer and the back of the chest. What could be simpler? Could also work a little bell or a visual indicator?

So witty. :roll:

BugBear

 

[woodbrains]

Another subtle way is, as per Alan Peters, who made his drawer back morticed into the sides, some way forwards of the drawer length. The idea was to maintain more drawer in the pocket, ..

I've had a go at drawer pulling today (wearing steel toe cap boots just in case) and what I've found is that after about half way the drawer tilts down/forwards slightly

Hello,

Drawers made with a traditional piston fit, ie finely made do not droop when pulled out. Perhaps you have never seen finely made furniture and its precision nature. Evidentially, since you keep on telling us dovetails are regularly overcut!

If you should take the time to think about it, a poorly or ordinarily made drawer can only be pulled out 2/3 of its lenght anyway, so access to the rear contents is not possible. A well fitted drawer with extended drawer sides can be withdrawn the whole lenght of its interior space, does not droop, slides like it is on linear bearings and allows acess to the entire interior space. Elegant, well designed solution by a master craftsman. Drawers like this, or made with let go for that matter, are truly delightful and the zenith of cabinetmaking.

Mike.

 

[JanetsBears]

Okay, okay, I'll add "fitting some sort of stops" to my list of things to do over the bank holiday weekend. We've got a pine kitchen island and the wider drawers on the sides, where we keep cutlery, always feels like they're going to drop out when opened. We've had it about 10 years and I've been going to fix it in some way since a couple of days after we got it delivered - this weekend it will happen! :?

Chris

Job done, finally! Added stops to backs of drawers and strips over the drawer edges to prevent the drawer tipping when it was opened beyond half way. Should have done it 10 years ago - it only took about 30 minutes.

Chris

 

[David C]

Mike,
I have always understood that solid drawer fronts need some clearance in their height.

Maybe 0.5mm on smaller drawers but up to 3 or 4 mm on deep bottom drawers.

How is a piston fit height going to work in periods of high humidity or damp storage?

I am happy with absolutely minimal side clearance, maybe only a couple of thou, but height?

best,
David

 

[woodbrains]

Mike,
I have always understood that solid drawer fronts need some clearance in their height.

Maybe 0.5mm on smaller drawers but up to 3 or 4 mm on deep bottom drawers.

How is a piston fit height going to work in periods of high humidity or damp storage?

I am happy with absolutely minimal side clearance, maybe only a couple of thou, but height?

best,
David

Hello,

I suppose the piston fit, or not, depends on the application. Jewellery box type items would have the piston fit, some small chests of drawers etc. But big, deep drawers would need some top clearance, I agree. That said, 3-4 mm on a deep drawer, that is of a good depth, in proportion, still would not droop much with a clearance such as this, certainly not enough to give a 'warning' that the end was near, as Jacob seems to think happens. Sloppier fitting drawers might have an indicative droop, but not finer ones.

Regarding the amount of clearance in height, do you think this is often overdone? I've read articles about the correct amount to leave, by calculation, and the gaps I've seen look awful. I made a kitchen with 6 inch oak drawers with about 3/32 gap, never stuck once in all of ten years. They droop very little when out 3/4 their length. Kitchens are pretty humid from time to time.

Mike.

 

[David C]

Thanks for that, The term has always caused me some concern.

David

 

[Cheshirechappie]

One traditional way to visually hide the clearance gap between drawer and carcase, especially with deeper drawers, is to fit ****-beads. On the plus side, they're a very effective visual distraction, and can be an excellent decorative addition; though on the minus side, they add significantly to the work of making and fitting a drawer, and may not sit well with the clean-lined aesthetic of contemporary fine furniture. Still, might be worth considering if gaps are a bit glaring.