First go at turning!

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Jameshow

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If had my first go at turning on my own!

(I did have a brief go at men's shed last week.)

Frying pan needed a new handle.

Question I have is how do I attach the tang to the handle?

Don't really want a slot?

Do I drill it and slot it?

And what glue? Won't epoxy melt?

Cheers James
16339803899291571877255534163444.jpg
 
The usual practise is if a hole is necessary, worry about the hole first. For something such as that I would put a groove in two pieces of wood that fitted over the tang, glue them together then turn it. If you were going to drill it it should have been drilled before its being turned. Sorry, not that that helps you much now.
 
That sounds a good idea.

I have a pillar drill so that isn't too much of an issue.

What glue?

Cheers James
 
Looks pretty darned good for a first attempt, doubtful if a drill bit of the right size will be long enough, you may have to drill from both ends- so good luck! Ian
 
Over the years I have turned plenty of handles both tang and socket. Pretty much figured I had handles all covered until I tried a frying pan handle. Chisels are socket or tang. Hammers and axes are socket with a wedge but pans have so many ways of doing it. Mine was a socket but also a threaded rod up through the handle. Looked pretty simple but I had to make a new rod with a small hooked end that went down the socket. The old rod fell apart as I unscrewed it. Turned the handle pretty quick but faffed about with the hooked rod for hours. Anyhow what I am getting at in a roundabout way is the turning is often the fun bit at the end after you figure out how it all goes together. Looking at that tang I would be sticking pretty close to the first handle design whatever that was. Also the risk of burning from spilling hot fat around requires any handle fitted needs to be secure. Bit of a bu&&@r but dont let the negativity of frying pan design get in the way of having fun on the lathe. Must be a few other items could do with nice wood handles.
Regards
John
 
Can't you put the handle in a vice and cut a slot in it? If need be you can file it out to the right width, accurately drill a hole in the side then use a nut embedded in the hole and bolt it from the other side? Or you could just make another one out of two pieces glued together..... but I would still bolt it to be safe.
 
I'm going try heat proof chemical metal first and see if that glues it.

Cheers James
 
The usual practise is if a hole is necessary, worry about the hole first. For something such as that I would put a groove in two pieces of wood that fitted over the tang, glue them together then turn it. If you were going to drill it it should have been drilled before its being turned. Sorry, not that that helps you much now.
Good advice. I did that a while ago when I made handles for my skew and roughing gouge. This YouTube video is pretty good.
watch
 
Anyone know what chick I should buy for my myford ml8 lathe. It has face plate and centres.

I have some nice firewood ofcuts I've saved.

Also what size timber would be required for a single piece rolling pin? Also best wood beech??

Cheers James
 
have a look at these -
https://www.beaufortink.co.uk/toolpost-versachuck-wood-lathe-chucks
They are a heavy chuck, but your lathe has decent bearings, and if you upgrade you need only to change the backplate. Get the carriers (slides) for the Versachuck and you have the option of Axminster or Versachuck jaws - V. ones are much cheaper. I have two. :) Sorry, I misread your post - I can't help on the chick front.
:LOL:
Any clean timber is ok for a rolling pin. If you sell them it's probably wise to avoid yew, laburnum etc. but in reality it's not going to hurt you I would draw the line at drinking from a yew goblet, but I'd put money on a yew rolling pin not poisoning anyone. The pin I use regularly is a piece of a nice tight grained pine salvaged from a gate post. It goes through the dishwasher regularly without even a hair's breadth crack.
 

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