First ever project need advice please.

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technium

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I have just got a 10' x 8' workshop which ive already made some rough benches etc for all my tools and stuff.

My work were chucking some wood away which I salvaged which are 7' lengths of beach but they are 1.5" square, so I was looking for something to make out of these and decided on a butchers block.

I heard you need food safe oil for the finish and I can only seem to find Linseed Oil round this area but am not sure if ALL Linseed oils are food safe, as ive brought two types, Raw and Boiled but neither say "food safe"

I havent started on this project yet I want to work out what im doing first so any help, tips or advice appreciated. I guess also the wood would need to be glued using water resistant glue so not normal wood pva glue is that correct?

thanks again.
 
Not sure if linseed is safe or not? But when i was at school we made a spatula from beech and finished it with vegetable oil. Not sure if that is ok or not. Someone will no doubt give you a better answer.

Hemp oil?
 
Hello and welcome to the forum :D

Beech is a food-safe timber (no taste,no smell,close-grained hardwood) so don't think you really need any finish on it.

Andrew
 
Hmmm thanks for the replies but im still no closer then, ive spoken with several people and yourselves and everyone has suggested something different.

I would like to put a finish on it just so its something I can also practice as because ive never done any finishes in oil only varnish stuff.
 
I agree with Powertool - no finish is needed (or desirable) on a beech butchers block.

Have a butchers in your local butcher's shop. His beech block will have been there for years without any finish on it - he'll just give it a good scrub every night.

(hopefully!)
 
As I understand it, PVA adhesive is inert when cured so it should be a safe choice for a butcher's block. However, if there's a possibility of the block being subjected to a lot of water for cleaning, you may be better off with a glue which is specifically designed to be water resistant, such as Titebond.

Applying a finish would be a waste of time on something which will get so much wear as a cutting board. Whilst beech has some bactericidal properties which make it particularly suitable for food use, you might want to check that the wood hasn't come into contact with any hazardous materials at work before using it in a food environment.

Incidentally, raw linseed oil isn't really suitable for woodwork projects - it won't cure satisfactorily.

Gill
 
I have just made several chopping boards from Beech.

I went ot my local wood finishing shop and bought a tin of Tung oil as reccomended by him. Takes ages to dry, but a 500ml tin has so far done 9 large boards and still half left.

incidently make sure you alternate the grain otherwise the bords will warp when you soak them in water (found this out to my cost).

Better still cut the boards so you get end grain to chop on, that shoud never warp.
 
use endgrain as your chopping surface, they last longer, as it doesnt damage the woodfibres (analogy: cut a paint brush at 90% the the bristle and watch it fall apart, now try the same cut straight thru the bristle little or no damage) and dont blunt your knives so quickly, as there is less resistance against the cutting action of the blade when it comes into contact with the board.
 
Thanks for the replies so far, I haven't replied but I have been looking.

Ok an update, i've cut the wood so that I will be using the end grain for the surface of the chopping board, I have also purchased Chestnuts food safe oil from axminster which will be the finish, and i've also purchased the titebond glue.

The weather on Portland has been really poor so haven't had time to go out in my shed / workshop but I have already glued 6 blocks together as i'm doing a bit at a time as I find they will be easier to clamp rather than all at once.

I will post more of an update once the weather dries up, but thanks for responding.

Technium
 

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