Finishing Oil for Lathe work.

[wizer]

Hi Guys

I'd like to try an oil finish on some of my work and I'm trying to decide what to go for. I know George uses Lemon Oil and I've just been looking at Organ Oil. Ultuimately I want something that doesn't colour the wood too much like Danish Oil.

Can anyone help or provide some recomendations.

Cheers

Tom

 

[duncanh]

I like Chestnut Finishing Oil. Quite thin, so easy to apply and it can be built up in several layers to give a nice shiny finish if required. I tend to apply 3 or 4 layers - wipe on, wait 2 or 3 minutes, wipe off the excess, wait at least 24 hours, denib with webrax, repeat.
I then leave for at least a week to let the oil cure (not sure if that's the correct terminology) and then I buff using tripoli followed by diamond white. I sometimes buff using one of those domed bristle brushes.

I've sometimes used Danish oil in the past but I prefer the thinner finishing oil. The colouring effect never really bothered me that much except for use on ash.

I've also used lemon oil but am not keen on it's mat finish.

I'm currently experimenting with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil after seeing Tracy Owen using a similar product - Osmo. It's working ok, but doesn't feel as good as the Osmo did at the demo

Whichever oil I use I usually apply using kitchen role. Sometimes I apply with very fine abrasive.

I never apply wax over the top of the oil - my thinking being that if I need to re-apply oil in the future (like I'll have to do for a friends fruit bowl where a rotten pear spoiled the finish) then I'd have to remove the was first.

Duncan

 

[cornucopia]

hello tom i use organoil hard burnishing oil- i only use lemon oil until the piece is dry then 2 coats of organ oil- you could also try chestnuts finishing oil, but i found it just slightly too thick and too quick to build a shine for my liking

 

[jpt]

HI Tom

The only oils I use are Chestnut finishing oil and foodsafe oil.

I apply 3 to 4 coats of finishing oil wiping of any excess after about 10 min and leaving 24 hours between each coat and denibbing with either 0000 wire wool and polishing each coat if I want a shine or with 1200, grey now orange, webrax if I want a matter finish.

With the food safe oil I apply 3 coats leaving 24 hours between each coat and cutting back as before, it doesnt shine very well.

Both darken the wood the finishing oil more than the food safe finish.

john

 

[richburrow]

I am using the Chestnut finishing oil at the moment, it works well for me. 100% tung oil is fantastic stuff but very thick and it takes ages to set, settle, go off ? what ever you call it. I have used it on furniture as well but from now on I think the Chestnut stuff is fine (it does have some tung in the mix.)

 

[wizer]

Guys, thanks for your suggestions. I think I am going to try the Lemon Oil. It's a matt finish I'm after experimenting with. Something that keeps the wood natural. I have Osmo which I've had mixed results with on lathe projects.

I always think of these things the day after I've made an order to (in this case) Toolpost :roll:

 

[tekno.mage]

Hi Wizer,

I recently started using Lemon Oil (at Cornucopia's) suggestion and like the matt finish it gives very much. I also use Walnut Oil on items to be used for food, this also has a matt finish. I normally use at least three coats of oil, waiting 24 hours between each. I've used both Danish Oil and Tung Oil in the past but find they darken light woods too much for my taste.

tekno.mage

 

[lurker]

Hi Wizer,

I recently started using Lemon Oil (at Cornucopia's) suggestion and like the matt finish it gives very much.
tekno.mage

Yep he has converted me too.

 

[Russell]

I use lemon oil and food safe finish when I dont want to colour the wood I also use Rustins danish oil and Chestnuts finishing oil layering the latter two depending on the depth of shine I want. Up to 15 coats for a glass like finish.

 

[PAC]

I use Chestnut Finishing Oil as a sanding lubricant from 120 to 400 grit. After 24 hrs I then polish with a mop loaded with EEE Ultrashine and then follow up with Chestnut Woodwax 22. This gives a very smooth, glossy finish.

 

[wizer]

Thanks PAC. Woodwax22 is something I want to move away from for a bit. I do like that finish but I'm after something matt, which leaves the wood texture intact.

I'm either going to drive down to West Dean tomorrow or Axminster (Sittingbourne), so I'll pick up some Lemon Oil.

 

[Scrums]

I also use Walnut Oil on items to be used for food.....

I'd watch out for any nut oils if you're planning to sell/give away any stuff....there's a suprising number of people with nut allergies which can be very severe in some cases.

Chris

 

[tekno.mage]

I also use Walnut Oil on items to be used for food.....

I'd watch out for any nut oils if you're planning to sell/give away any stuff....there's a suprising number of people with nut allergies which can be very severe in some cases.

Chris

True enough - I'm using the walnut oil on bowls for myself & I have no allergies at all

tekno.mage

 

[boysie39]

Try Licqued Parifin on some waste and see the results REgards Boysie

 

[wizer]

I take it everyone uses Chestnut brand LO?

 

[Neil Dyball]

Well I for one do Tom. Love the smell of it and the matt finish when that's what I'm looking for.

Neil.

 

[Lightweeder]

I use lemon oil and food safe finish when I dont want to colour the wood I also use Rustins danish oil and Chestnuts finishing oil layering the latter two depending on the depth of shine I want. Up to 15 coats for a glass like finish.

Assume this is done by hand, off the lathe ?

 

[boysie39]

No Wizer,I dont I use Liquid Parrifin. Boysie

 

[Bodrighy]

I take it everyone uses Chestnut brand LO?

Nope,

I've been using a well known supermarket sunflower oil for food safe things. Apply several coatsand buff in between. Not had a problem yet. (Don't use Olive oil as it goes rancid)

Pete

 

[CHJ]

No Wizer,I dont I use Liquid Parrifin. Boysie

I find the "light grade" liquid paraffin (Chestnut Food safe) better in most instances myself because it penetrates better and dries off quicker.

IKEA have an economical version which is halfway between the 'chemists' and the 'chestnut' versions.