Finishing oak flooring. Round II

[flanajb]

Finishing a floor using danish oil was a dumb decision. 7 years later and the oak floor requires resanding (picture hands and needs with orbital sander) and then finishing again. There seems to be the wax oil or the varnish routes. We are just after something that is very hard wearing, requires zero maintenance (Well at least in the next 2-3 years), and can all be hopefully completed in one day.

Axminster do a 2 part catalyst based product, which I think would give a very hard finish, but only concern is that the house will stink and the Wife will be complaining about it. I do tell her that the words progress and inconvenience are inevitably linked.

Any recommendations?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Rustin's Flooring Plastic (2 part a.c.) is good. It'll stink for a day or two though. The satin shows marking less than the gloss but probably isn't quite so hard. Have you thought about Osmo or Treatex? At least they are very easily touched up if damaged - lacquers aren't.

 

[flanajb]

Rustin's Floor Plastic was the one I had my eye on. Have you used it and is it hard wearing?

The Wife and Daughter are into horse riding so muddy boots coming into the house are the norm. That is why I want something hard wearing

 

[Dee J]

Osmo or Fiddes Hardwax oil. Absorbs into the surface rather than leaving a skin on the top. Any damage can be treated by damp cloth, scrubbing brush or (in extreme) sandpaper then localised re-coat. Hard lacquers would be horrendous to repair.
But maybe a boot room, some serious rubber mats or some behavioral changes would be best.
Dee

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Rustin's Floor Plastic was the one I had my eye on. Have you used it and is it hard wearing?

The Wife and Daughter are into horse riding so muddy boots coming into the house are the norm. That is why I want something hard wearing

I used it for 15yrs on a hotel dance floor.

 

[gregmcateer]

Osmo or Fiddes Hardwax oil. Absorbs into the surface rather than leaving a skin on the top. Any damage can be treated by damp cloth, scrubbing brush or (in extreme) sandpaper then localised re-coat. Hard lacquers would be horrendous to repair.
But maybe a boot room, some serious rubber mats or some behavioral changes would be best.
Dee

Yep from me, too. Osmo Polyx hard wax oil. Have had no problem with it over many years and just done a new floor in our new extension. Scratches, (or patina of life, as I like to call it to the good lady), can be quickly buffed / sanded out and re-oiled.

 

[celston]

Another +1 for Osmo here. Used it on our (engineered) oak lounge floor ~5 years ago, still looks good.

 

[MrYorke]

I use Fiddes Hard Wax oil. Works a treat. You'll have to put down 2-3 coats but it's very hard wearing. I use it on solid wood worktops as well.

Just make sure you've removed all traces of Danish oil first.

 

[stuartpaul]

I've used ronseal floor oil quite sucessfully on a kitchen floor. Took lots of hard wear before any recoating required.

Does need an overnight dry but smell minimal. Good stuff IMHO.