Finish for a softwood picnic bench - confused!

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chaoticbob

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I've got permission to install a picnic bench on the High Peak Trail in memory of a recently deceased friend. I'm making this myself out of untreated 6x2 C24.
The guy I spoke to said it had to be 'dark brown', which is OK, I can stain the timber, but he also said it shouldn't be varnished because varnishes flake. He pointed me to a commercial bench supplier they've used whose products are made from painted tanalised timber. But I've had a look at the painted benches on the Trail, and they're all flaking. So I'm not convinced the man is an expert in this field.
OK, I thought, I'll go for stain then linseed oil - I'd read a thread on this site in which Jacob extolled the durability of LO finishes, but then I read Phil1975's topic on recoating a teak bench in which phil.p said that in his experience they always turned black in time. Hmm. Confusing!
Phil1975 said that he was going for Le Tonkinous, so looked that up and it seemed the answer, but of course (in the way that internet searches always go) some folk say that Deks Olje is the better stuff.
More confusion!
I'm sorry if this is overlong and vague, but that's in the nature of confusion - can anyone point me in the right direction to understanding this?
Robin.
 
Won't go in to detail now but I would use a few costs of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus in whatever colour you choose. Good quality stain that won't flake.
 
Thanks Doug, I've had a look and it seems good stuff. Should be at the price! I'll get some in.
They say 'use only non-ferrous fasteners' - I was planning to use A2 stainless screws, any idea if that would be a problem?
Robin
 
I don't see a problem with A2 stainless screws, that is what I would use.

Doug
 
I made the garden gate on my old house 25 years ago and it's still there (glossed white) showing no deterioration. I made it from whitewood (because I had it) and pickled all the parts for a fortnight in a good preservative - after all the joints were cut. I also drowned every drilled hole in preservative before fitting the ironmongery. Get your retaliation in first. :D
 
Thanks, have got the Sikkens in - I guess one has to jump in somewhere rather than spending hours googling for the ideal solution which probably doesn't exist. I'll report back in five years! Or fewer.

Phil.p - sadly time/money constraints don't allow pickling in preservative, but I'm impressed by the longevity of your gates - I've got a gate project on myself, so useful info.
Robin
 
Turns out it's a three week lead time to get the plaque, so maybe space to apply wood preservative before staining. Can you be more specific about a 'decent' product Phil.p or others? I am looking at Ronseal clear, but I have to say that I've not been impressed by Ronseal products in the past, maybe there is something better?
Robin
 
I have used Baratine clear preserver with long lasting results. Give it a few days to fully dry before applying the Sikens
 
Any well known commercial manufacturer, really. Use a clear one or colours will leach through any other finish, and save some money by not paying out for one with dry rot protection - it's not likely to get dry rot outdoors. As above, Barratine is fine. I used Cuprinol (because I happened to have it). Everbuild stuff can usually be found at a decent price.
 
Thanks both, have bought Cuprinol clear. I'm probably worrying too much about this bench, I went to the pub tonight and sat in the garden where they have a dozen of the things, presumably 'professionally' made, in various states of decay but still fit for purpose.
Robin.
 
The main thing is think about the construction as well as the design. Put the screws holding the top and seat members up through the frame rather than down through them leaving countersinks to catch the water, don't design in water traps, soak the feet well with preservative, think about putting some Flashband or something on the bottoms and so on - get your retaliation in first. :D
 
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