Finally admitting defeat....

[Yorkshire Sam]

Been successfully sharpening my own hand saw for a couple of years now but finally having to admit to myself that my eyes are just not good enough anymore ( even with magnification aids!). Been looking at toolstation, screwfix etc for hard point tenon saws and thinking that I could buy a tenon saw for my jointing for about the same price as buying saw sharpening files when postage is taken into account ( not withstanding the difficulty even finding decent files just recently! ). Never having used any of these items are they fit for fine cutting purpose and how long do they last? I am only an amateur and only work with hand tools, (beside the use of a bandsaw occasionally) but I do like to have a sharp and fine saw when cutting joints so I would be grateful for any views and recommends.

 

[AndyT]

Yes they work, are good and cheap too.

Having said that, I've only bought branded Irwin or Stanley hard point saws, not paying rock bottom price - but even so, a good panel saw is under a tenner.

Don't buy one of these.

Do have a look at Graham Haydon's video here https://youtu.be/LC11hygOd5c

 

[MIGNAL]

The few panel saw types (Stanley Jet cut, Bahco) I've tried have been perfectly good. Don't know about tenon saw types, never tried a hardpoint tenon apart from a very cheap one. It had a wide kerf for a tenon saw.

 

[JSW]

Don't laugh, these are surprisingly good (£7.99)

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Fine-Cut ... m/p/167583

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

Personally I find hardpoint panel saws fine to use (for cross cutting) but the few times I have tried tenon/dovetail hardpoints I have been disappointed. for fine work you could consider going Japanese, a dozuki saw has a back like a tenon saw and they deliver a very fine cut. they cost a little more than a hardpoint tenon saw but you can usually buy replacement blades for under £20. They are a little different to use as they cut on the pull not the push but it doesn't take long to get used to them.
Paddy

 

[deema]

If you don't have anywhere that can sharpen your saws fir you, why not buy a decent saw and when it starts to go a little dull sell it on an auction site and buy another? I tried this once in a round about way with a Veritas saw I wanted to try. Sold it for £15 less than I baught it for, which is about the same as having it sharpened. Your unlikely to need a saw sharpening more than once a year If it's just fir tennons....possibly less frequently

 

[n0legs]

I've got a Bahco hard point tenon saw. I've had it quite a while and I find it cuts very well.
13tpi I think, granted not the finest of saws but has stayed sharp and cuts true.

 

[ajmacleod]

I have a Spear and Jackson hardpoint tenon saw and have to say it's not great. The set seems huge and it's very aggressive; difficult to start in a cut and doesn't leave a nice finish at all.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I'm just in West Cornforth, but I haven't sharpened a saw (nor used one much) for a while - hands haven't been behaving

 

[matthewwh]

+1 for Japanese saws. We had a customer the other week who had bought his dozuki before the millennium, thought it was about time to replace the blade, for the first time!

For good disposable panel saws, the Barracuda range are apparently well worth the extra few sheckels.

 

[bridger]

I suspect that you would see improvement on both counts with a bit of judicious stoning of the set.

I have a Spear and Jackson hardpoint tenon saw and have to say it's not great. The set seems huge and it's very aggressive; difficult to start in a cut and doesn't leave a nice finish at all.

 

[G S Haydon]

The Irwin Jack range seem pretty good value. I had previously used Bacho 244 but it's more expensive and less comfortable than the Irwin.

I'd recommend calling into your local Builder's merchant or DIY store and looking at them. Slide off the cardboard sleeve if possible and take a look at the teeth.

I find them pretty effective tools but they aren't to everyone's tastes.

Thanks for the link Andy

 

[Setch]

For good disposable panel saws, the Barracuda range are apparently well worth the extra few sheckels.

I'm impressed with the one I'm using at the moment, though it has bitten me twice by 'jumping' onto my thumb when starting a cut. It is viscously sharp!

 

[Jacob]

Been successfully sharpening my own hand saw for a couple of years now but finally having to admit to myself that my eyes are just not good enough anymore ( even with magnification aids!). Been looking at toolstation, screwfix etc for hard point tenon saws and thinking that I could buy a tenon saw for my jointing for about the same price as buying saw sharpening files when postage is taken into account ( not withstanding the difficulty even finding decent files just recently! ). Never having used any of these items are they fit for fine cutting purpose and how long do they last? I am only an amateur and only work with hand tools, (beside the use of a bandsaw occasionally) but I do like to have a sharp and fine saw when cutting joints so I would be grateful for any views and recommends.

My eyesight not too good for fine saws but I got into the habit of just doing it by feel and rhythm. Black felt tip so you can see where you've been (even if you can't see the teeth). Get the file angle by feel - slot it into a gullet, then work up one side without stopping with the file held at a steady angle and same pressure and number of strokes, then ditto the other side. A bit of irregularity doesn't matter too much - people take the tops off too often, as long as the teeth equally sharp and set each side.
It's also very quick, with not having to look too closely at each tooth.

 

[D_W]

Ditto to what jacob said, though my eyes are fine and I don't know what it would be like.

Imagine seeing the teeth to set them would be harder than the actual sharpening, but even if those get off a tooth here and there, it's not the end of the world.

Shame someone doesn't live close to you who could sharpen saws. I'd sharpen saws for people local to here if someone actually asked and didn't bring me flea market saws, but I don't know anyone local who actually uses saws for rough to fine work other than me.

Disposable saws are good "break down" saws in my mind, they can do the coarse work well, but unless you look at japanese, a lot of the western saws with japanese teeth are pretty hard on the backside of a cut and they are not fit for ripping hardwoods.

I have ruined my favorite western saw (stanley fine cut or some such thing..smooth cut, maybe?) - 12 tpi japanese style teeth, 26 inches long, really a nice break-down saw that cuts fast, but the plane above those teeth is soft and if you get to really horsing the saws in hardwood, you can bend teeth. I bent a tooth somehow breaking down ash to make a bench.

 

[Yorkshire Sam]

Thanks to all for the many replies. I sense that some of the better hard points are ok for initial cuts or cutting to size but a bit rough for use in jointing especially the finer cuts like dovetails, etc. Have tried japanese saws but can't get on with them ( I think a bit long in the tooth to change habits, lol). I took Jacobs point and will perhaps try his method for my better saws and get a decent hard point for cutting to size. I really don't do enough to justify the expense of a better quality saw, although I am still giving this a lot of thought because the idea has its merits. My thanks to all for your info.