Filling cracks in gate rails before painting.

[Doug71]

How do people fill cracks like this before painting? I don't mean between the boarding and rail but the cracks in the actual rail, I would normally use 2 part filler but just wondered if there is something else out there more suited? The cracks open and close with the weather so something flexible might be better?
The timber is unsorted redwood, the back of gates are south facing. I will be overcoating with Dulux Ultimate Opaque.

Thanks in advance, Doug

 

[Jonathan S]

Doug
From experience 2 part doesn't hold up well outside..... I'm on a job at the moment repairing 60 pergolas, they where repaired a few years ago with 2 part and it looks like it actually encourages rot..... I've just experimented with some polymer silicone, its printable and moves.... I'll let you know in a couple of years how it holds up![SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND SMILING EYES]

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

 

[Woody2Shoes]

This stuff works for me:

https://www.ronseal.com/for-home/wood-w ... od-filler/

 

[Doug71]

Jonathan, do you mean the normal type polymer adhesive/ sealants like stix all? I have just used some to fill the gap in a door panel that had come apart before I painted it. Seems to have worked well but you cant really sand it at all, you just have to clean it off and let it skin over, might give it a go though.

W2S, yeah that is the stuff I normally use, it is good stuff, just wondered if there was anything else on the market that I might not have heard of.

Thanks guys.

 

[Bm101]

Just a mad thought. What about intumescent silicon. Fire rated for sealing round metal pipes on large industrial boilers etc it has a movement rate that is registered at a high percentage.
Ok. Answers on a postcard.
Or replace the drip guard and be done with it. I think I remember MikeG posting about old doors that these were meant to be replaced? Sorry. Being dense not facetious obviously.

 

[MikeG.]

Doug, I'd pop that piece off and replace it. Anything else is just storing up trouble, I reckon.

 

[Bm101]

Edited as Mike answered. *laughs nervously. Looks over shoulder in case Mike is stood behind me.

 

[MikeG.]

I am Chris. You should tidy up a bit, the place is looking a tip....... :wink: :lol:

 

[Bm101]

Ooooo k. :|

 

[rafezetter]

If you are thinking of something flexible to fill it (assuming you don't replace it) caulk designed for expansion joints has a high flex rating; 25% if memory serves - there are some that are over paintable.

2 part doesn't promote rot - however if the edge where the 2part has been applied and the wood has separated because of poor application and adhesion (usually user error), then yes water gets in if the paint on top has been left untouched.

2part is regularly used as a fast way to rebuild and repair soft, semi rotten wood especially with exterior cills and works just fine as long as the person doing it knows what to do other than just slap some 2 part onto soft or rotting wood.

 

[MikeG.]

If you are thinking of something flexible to fill it (assuming you don't replace it) caulk designed for expansion joints has a high flex rating; 25% if memory serves - there are some that are over paintable..........

Are there? I didn't know there were low modulus silicon sealants which could be painted. Obviously that would demand a highly flexible paint, at least as flexible as the sealant.

 

[owen]

CT1 is overpaintable, Also some others like fix-all and clear fix

 

[MikeG.]

CT1 is overpaintable, Also some others like fix-all and clear fix

But they're high modulous (ie relatively inflexible).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

2part is regularly used as a fast way to rebuild and repair soft, semi rotten wood especially with exterior cills and works just fine as long as the person doing it knows what to do other than just slap some 2 part onto soft or rotting wood.

I have done this, but the wood was soaked with a hardener first. When it fails again, it's the end.

 

[AJB Temple]

I wish CT1 was flexible! I have glued a 2.5 metre tall stone pagoda together with it and now I would like to get it apart to move it a metre or so.

 

[Doug71]

Thanks for the advice guys, think I will go for a combination of 2 part filler in the small cracks and some fix-all in the bigger ones.

Unfortunately I can't just replace the pieces as it's all the bottom and mid rails on my drive gates, this photo might make it a bit clearer when you can see the hinge.

The gates have never had much attention as they were only meant to be temporary till I made the proper ones, 6 years on they are still temporary :|

 

[owen]

CT1 is overpaintable, Also some others like fix-all and clear fix

But they're high modulous (ie relatively inflexible).

But CT1 is flexible? Or am I getting the wrong end of the stick?
This is from the CT1 website..

 "It remains flexible up to 350% whilst never sacrificing its strength."

 

[thetyreman]

what about linseed oil putty?

 

[rafezetter]

If you are thinking of something flexible to fill it (assuming you don't replace it) caulk designed for expansion joints has a high flex rating; 25% if memory serves - there are some that are over paintable..........

Are there? I didn't know there were low modulus silicon sealants which could be painted. Obviously that would demand a highly flexible paint, at least as flexible as the sealant.

Well quite - and there's the rub, I think if those gaps were filled with something flexible, the filler won't be the next issue to deal with.

Phil - on the few occasions I've had to do a deep patch / fill with 2part in wood I've also really soaked the soft wood with hardener, drilled out some holes and soaked those as well with a syringe for deep penetration, then plugged those holes with hardwood then soaked again and put screws with washers there to act as ties, then filled it all. I've done it 5 times - 3 for a "get us through the next 2 years before we replace the whole lot with UPVc" and 2 times at my parents house a couple of years back, and so far at least those 2 seem fine.