Filling blemishes

[sxlalan]

I am currently building some nursery furniture out of a mix of pine and tulipwood. The furniture will eventually be painted but I would like to fill and smooth a few blemishes beforehand. The marks are generally small (a few holes in knots) with a couple of larger marks presumably caused by handling at the mill (1-2 mm deep, 1-2 mm wide and 5-6 mm long). What should I use to fill these marks before painting, these sort of products...

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23427&sfile=1&jump=4
or
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23668&sfile=1&jump=4

or something else?

thanks

Alan

 

[MikeW]

Hello Alan,

I've only used the Titebond product and for filling the holes it would be good. I assume the boards with the holes in the knots are the pine ones? If so, make sure the knots are truly tight--no cracks running out to the edges of the knots. Pine is notorius for the knots coming loose later on.

For those I use epoxy to fill them, pushing the epoxy down into all the little cracks. If the hole or cracks go all the way through, just use a little masking tape on the bottom before filling with epoxy.

For the longer marks I would try to remove them if you can. Either by handplaning or by machine. If that cannot be done, I think the filler would hold.

Just make sure to allow the filler plenty of time to cure because it will shrink for a day or two. You probably should plan on (at least) two applications anyway.

 

[CHJ]

..snipwith a couple of larger marks presumably caused by handling at the mill (1-2 mm deep, 1-2 mm wide and 5-6 mm long). What should I use to fill these marks before painting, ..snip..or something else?
Alan

Rather than go for filler on the "Dents" first try a wet cloth placed over the "dent" and apply a domestic iron to it for a few minutes (trying to steam the wood local to the "dent")

This may lift the compressed wood sufficiently to allow you to sand it flush

 

[sxlalan]

Cheers gents. By epoxy are we talking araldite type glue? I've vaguely heard of people mixing sawdust with glue to fill cracks, is this the sort of glue to use for that?

Alan

 

[MikeW]

Hi again, Alan,

Yep, the araldite or any other two part epoxy. As you are painting this project, I probably wouldn't hassle with mixing sawdust, though--unless the holes were such that the sawdust would enable you to use less epoxy. But by itself it will be able to be squeezed into small holes and cracks quite well.

 

[sxlalan]

Thanks Mike .... there's such a lot to learn!

 

[ike]

Alan,

What I sometimes do is to make some very fine sanding dust from a scrap of the same timber, then mix it with a little glue to use as a filler. But as you're painting, then... oh heck, I made a pointless post!

Ike

 

[sxlalan]

Thanks Ike. How do I decide whether to use PVA or Epoxy as the base for the sawdust mix?

Alan

 

[ike]

I don't know how you decide, however, ordinary PVA works for me.

cheers

Ike

 

[beech1948]

sxlalan,

Hi,

For pine and tupipwood you could go to your nearest autobody shop and acquire some very fine body filler as used by panel repairers. Often two part epoxy types sometimes ready mixed to a firm paste..

It is non-shrinking when dried, as hard as nails and easy to work and sand back to the desired shape. Its available in several grades of fineness and can be used to fill any dents etc...that is what it was used for on auto bodies. Takes paint well. Is cheaper than plastic wood and much better.

regards

alan

 

[Philly]

Alan
The latest issue of Fine Wookworking has an article on preparing the surfaces for painting-lots of relevant stuff for you!
Cheers
Philly
Who has been known to use superglue mixed with sawdust......

 

[andrewm]

The latest issue of Fine Wookworking has an article on preparing the surfaces for painting-lots of relevant stuff for you!

I was reading that. Does anyone know what the UK equivalent so Spackle is?

Andrew

 

[Philly]

Andrew
I believe it is Polyfil!
Cheers
Philly

 

[polyvinylacetate]

Rather than go for filler on the "Dents" first try a wet cloth placed over the "dent" and apply a domestic iron to it for a few minutes (trying to steam the wood local to the "dent")
[

I tend to simply drizzle boiling water on any of my dents and wait for it to dry, ( rubbing with saw dust will speed up this drying process ). The fibres usually lift back to their original shape or stand slightly proud and then sand flush. :wink: