Scheppach HS120 or the older TKU model with a decent blade, that’s all you need. Easy two-person lift, powerful, and 1/4 the price of the Festool.
This is so true, a proper rip blade is miles better than a universal.Those saws are not on this side of the pond but most saws can cut hardwood when a rip blade is put in it rather than using the combination blades people tend to use. Any way one of the dealers of the saw will demo the cutting abilities if you brought a board or two to put through it?
Pete
......I have often wondered why we can`t buy the proper big Sawstop cabinet saws in the UK I am sure they would sell well. Now festool are coming out with these mini ones, it must be some licencing problem or something or maybe they didn`t want to put it through TUV / CE testing.
So if we want our fingers protecting we can have the mini festool or a £30K Felder, nothing in between.
.....
Ollie
I'd buy an Erika 80 then. 3hp and will chomp through most tasks you ask of it.Yes, you're right, my question regarding hardwood rip cuts was a little vague. What I should have asked is, has anyone experienced difficulties or limits in ripping, say, 2" thick hardwood with the TKS 80? I already own an Axminster AP254TS table saw but I need portability: we are in the process of building a Passiv Haus on site.
Yep, everyone seems to want to cut at 100mph with standard supplied blades, shame reallyIsn't it more about blades than saws, really? I rip with TS55 beech and oak of 50 mm thick just fine. I only have to change the blade to one with less teeth - 20 teeth for 160 mm disk in my case. And if saw starts to tilt during cut no power will help.
The same goes about bandsaws. I see people complaining about motor being too weak and that one needs at least 3HP to be good to rip anything substantial. But I manage to cut 120 mm thick beech with 1/2HP on my Record Power BS250 just fine. Again, right bandsaw blade and slow feed.
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