Festool saw and guide rail system, initial results

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coggy":oqbcltpg said:
It says you get a free connector with it, is that 1 of them so i would only need to buy 1 joining kit then? if you get one free ?
Yes, if you get the Protrade deal, you'll only need to buy one extra joining kit.

In terms of clamps, there are three types.
cat_hobel_schraubzw_z3f_1.jpg

These are the ones you found at Axminster for £18.48 / pair, Festool code is FSZ 120

rapid_z3f_1.jpg

Then there are these fast ones, only any use for perpendicular cuts in sheet material, but much faster to apply. Axminster quoted me £19.95 + VAT, + £3.95 special order fee, Festool code is FS-RAPID

fsz_hzp_01_01.jpg

Then there are these ones, no idea how much they are I'm afraid. Code is FS-HZ 160

I got the first ones FWIW

Cheers,
Neil
 
I've just taken delivery of a Festool CT33E extractor, the circular saw and jigsaw from Protrade :D :D (it's my birthday next week).

Give them a call - I found them very nice to deal with and they might give you a discount (they gave me a good price on the extractor).

The jigsaw arrived without any blades (not even the two "standard" ones, never mind the special offer) but Protrade were excellent about arranging a pickup and delivering another one.

So far I've only made one cut that mattered with the circular saw - my father is doing up his bedroom and wanted to split a wardrobe door into two pieces (sort of a stable door). The door is laminated chipboard with a recessed ovolo edge.

I'm happy to say the cut was perfect with zero breakout along the edge, even the complex curvy bit which the guide was not supporting. It's amazing how little vibration the motor runs with.

Ian

(currently looking for more things to cut in half)
 
Ian, a Festool convert. Join the club. Their the Rolls Royce of power tools. I've got the plunge saw and in my view there is nothing better.

I didn't buy one of their extractors because i already have a good one, but i can honestly say that not one bit (well none that i could see) of dust escapes from the saw when it is connected and i think that most of this is down to the blade cover.

Are you tempted to buy anymore Festool?

Regards

Woody
 
How long do the festool saw blades (TS55) last with manmade boards such as MDF, chipboard etc?

Do people recommend different toothed blades for different stock and if so what are the recommendations for chipboard and MDF?

Many thanks

Roger
 
I just bought one to complement my General (of Canada) Sliding Table Saw. The latter is not quite up to the capacity of a true Euro Format Saw. With a 300mm blade and 60" sliding capacity it will crosscut a 4x8-sheet of plywood. But it won't rip to the full length of that panel.

When it was delivered here in California, I went over to see it. On the way out, the machinery dealer told me a client just exchanged an unused Festool plunge saw. He wanted the newer model that came out here in the U.S. So I got the saw at a savings of about $100. No tax, since it was technically "used".

I'll post my impressions of it here in about six weeks. I'll be building tall storage cabinets for an aircraft hangar. I expect the cabinets to go up to at least 8 feet. Perhaps 9. So accuracy will be a factor if doors are to be kept from binding. Two Festool owners who are in my woodworking club are quite vocal about its capabilities. They claim it is the best power tool in their shop. I'll say this, Festool is getting a large audience here in America. From woodworkers, and from folks in the building trade normally known for being Xenophobic about their tools.

Personally, I feel the engineers here are asleep. About designing safety and ergonomics in tools and machinery. Bosch, Lamello, Metabo, Festool, Mafell are vastly superior, me thinks.

Gary Curtis
California
 
Hi Gary

Since my last post I bought a TS55 and two guide rails (1440mm) and have to say it was one of the best purchases I ever made. Up until the purchase I'd been deliberating about building a bench to handle large sheets, or a table saw with fancy extensions or a sort of vertical rip-it down and then finish it later type of jig.

If you have the space to lay down a sheet of foam or whatever to put underneath your boards then the TS55 is the way to go. I found that I didn't need to fiddle around with clamps...the jig holds itself down superbly. I also bought the angle connection and that took care of getting 90degree cuts perfectly.

Had to check to see where Trinity County was ...super location...have to say I do miss the West Coast. :lol:
 
Don't forget that plunge saws like the Festool or Mafell can climb cut. By starting the cut at the far side of the board, with a shallow setting, say 3mm, a delicate surface can be score cut; thus chipping, spelching or breakout is *impossible*. The cut is completed with a forward pass at full depth, back over the 3mm scoring cut. You have, in effect, a portable scoring saw. Marvelous!
 
i think the other point to consider is that the base of my mafell
and i am sure the festo is of better quality and greater thickness
than the normal "skil" sure, this too helps with preventing break out
and splintering.

although the introduction of festo to my mates at jaycee in northolt
has reduced the sales of the mafell ksp 40 with the bendable 1200 mm
track, i noticed to day more and more interest in it.

i just think that in part anyway these tools are still made for the purpose
not for the price, so they do the job properly.

but what is certain is that for the small shop with mainly case work to do
one of the saws with a proper guide track is the way to go.

paul :wink:
 

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