Faithful no 4 smoothing plane in the box

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@Steve22 I would strongly advise against buying either a no 6 or 7, by any maker, unless you have a real need and purpose for either, they are big and unwieldy and more so if you have any difficulty with grip or strength.

My experience with faithful planes is poor, I bought a No 10 for a job, it failed miserably, fortunately as I know my way around hand planes, with a bit of work it just about performs its function.
I need one as I have lumber at 2.4 i want to try and get bows warps and twists out so I can salvage it for my workbench’s I’m buildin. I’ve got 2 piles the good has some bows in a couple i need to do and the second pile is the bad and ugly that has 15 2.4 meter lengths and I don’t want to wast them
 
I have a faithful plane it's a number 10 it needed quite a bit of work but its pretty good now however I would plump for an old Stanley or preferably a record number four five six etc if I was looking for fresh plane to use for myself
 
Hi I’m just trying to find out what the angle is for sharpening the faithful no 4 smoothing plane cheers.
and I ap if it’s already been asked I have trouble reading since my strokes sorry again
Don't know if this will help. I use a cheapo Draper honing guide. In the top photo you can see that I filed the top surfaces flat-ish, because the guide straight out of the packet just isn't flat, so the blade won't sit right. Still, it was under a tenner.

On the pack it gives the measures to protrude the blade out of the guide for 25 and 30 degrees, for plane and chisel. I made up a template up out of scrap so I don't have to read a ruler. I can't see the numbers anyway. It's not my idea - I got it from somewhere, probably Paul Sellers. But it takes all the guesswork out of trying to get the blade at the right sticky outy measure for the guide, and makes sure that your sticky outy is always more or less consistent without having to hold three tiddly little things at the same time.

In the second photo my Record 5 1/2 is weighing the jig down while I stick the blade in the honing guide, using the edge of the plywood as my reference edge and the block of hardwood as my depth stop. I just noticed that my Record plane blade isn't in square - must mean the frog is out of alignment.

My go to long edge plane is the Stanley no 7, which I love to bits. It's heavy, but it's a joy to use. I spent the time to true up the sole, which was already fairly good IIRC, so if you get one with a badly warped sole, I would send it back with a raspberry.

guide_1.jpg

guide_2.jpg
 
Block plane - the one I reach for most is my Stanley 220 adjustable. It's quite cheap ( on e-bay I just saw a clean s/h one for £20), but it has to be nice and sharp, because it's not the best quality in the world. The flappy lateral adjuster is a waste of time - just tap the blade with something.

Edit - note "adjustable" - it has a brass adjuster screw, whereas the other old Stanley block is old school tap with a hammer to adjust the blade. I have one of those too and it's nice, but a fiddle to set up. I would quite like the Bailey one, but I would look for an old one, not new.
 
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Don't know if this will help. I use a cheapo Draper honing guide. In the top photo you can see that I filed the top surfaces flat-ish, because the guide straight out of the packet just isn't flat, so the blade won't sit right. Still, it was under a tenner.

On the pack it gives the measures to protrude the blade out of the guide for 25 and 30 degrees, for plane and chisel. I made up a template up out of scrap so I don't have to read a ruler. I can't see the numbers anyway. It's not my idea - I got it from somewhere, probably Paul Sellers. But it takes all the guesswork out of trying to get the blade at the right sticky outy measure for the guide, and makes sure that your sticky outy is always more or less consistent without having to hold three tiddly little things at the same time.

In the second photo my Record 5 1/2 is weighing the jig down while I stick the blade in the honing guide, using the edge of the plywood as my reference edge and the block of hardwood as my depth stop. I just noticed that my Record plane blade isn't in square - must mean the frog is out of alignment.

My go to long edge plane is the Stanley no 7, which I love to bits. It's heavy, but it's a joy to use. I spent the time to true up the sole, which was already fairly good IIRC, so if you get one with a badly warped sole, I would send it back with a raspberry.

View attachment 162702
View attachment 162704
Block plane - the one I reach for most is my Stanley 220 adjustable. It's quite cheap ( on e-bay I just saw a clean s/h one for £20), but it has to be nice and sharp, because it's not the best quality in the world. The flappy lateral adjuster is a waste of time - just tap the blade with something.

Edit - note "adjustable" - it has a brass adjuster screw, whereas the other old Stanley block is old school tap with a hammer to adjust the blade. I have one of those too and it's nice, but a fiddle to set up. I would quite like the Bailey one, but I would look for an old one, not new.
Yes it does I’ve been looking on YouTube at quite a few and going to make one I was going to do it today but a fair bit of debris going across my garden and I can’t dodge it in wheelchair I’ll try tomorrow but thanks
 
Don't know if this will help. I use a cheapo Draper honing guide. In the top photo you can see that I filed the top surfaces flat-ish, because the guide straight out of the packet just isn't flat, so the blade won't sit right. Still, it was under a tenner.

On the pack it gives the measures to protrude the blade out of the guide for 25 and 30 degrees, for plane and chisel. I made up a template up out of scrap so I don't have to read a ruler. I can't see the numbers anyway. It's not my idea - I got it from somewhere, probably Paul Sellers. But it takes all the guesswork out of trying to get the blade at the right sticky outy measure for the guide, and makes sure that your sticky outy is always more or less consistent without having to hold three tiddly little things at the same time.

In the second photo my Record 5 1/2 is weighing the jig down while I stick the blade in the honing guide, using the edge of the plywood as my reference edge and the block of hardwood as my depth stop. I just noticed that my Record plane blade isn't in square - must mean the frog is out of alignment.

My go to long edge plane is the Stanley no 7, which I love to bits. It's heavy, but it's a joy to use. I spent the time to true up the sole, which was already fairly good IIRC, so if you get one with a badly warped sole, I would send it back with a raspberry.

View attachment 162702
View attachment 162704
I’m not sure if this is right or not but I’ve got down that it’s 38mm should be 30 degrees and 50mm is 25 degree. I can’t check as not got a protrusion board
 
You're probably right, but 30, 40, 50 is easier to remember and less fiddly. After all, it wouldn't really matter if the grind angle is 24 and the sharpen angle is 28, so long as there is a bit of a difference, because that makes the amount of metal you need to remove from the cutting edge less than if you were polishing all the way across, which is a chore. Just so long as its sharp.

Forgot to say that my friend's uncle had a stroke and developed a passion for watercolour painting. If bashing up wood is yours, then go fo it. good for you.
 
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Also, because your in a wheelchair you might want to try to turn the plane round to pull towards you, asian style. Same with saws etc. Try turning the blade round backwards in a coping saw or something so its pulling towards you instead of pushing away.
 
I've got a stanley no 3 that I have pulled towards me a few times, its surprising how much control you can have
Only planes I have is a faithful no4 and a small Japanese plane there good for pulling but not completely easy to se up plus it needs sharpening and unsure of correct angle
 
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