I’ve had a chap around whom I’m looking to make me some cabinets…..I know, I could make them myself, but I’ve simply too much on and need to get somethings done. Anyway, he’s suggesting making the face frames out of MRMDF, edged for paint. He has a hot melt edger. Now, I’ve not come across making them out of MRMDF before and it feels wrong. But before I suggest going back to a hardwood does anyone professionally make them out of MRMDF and how robust to-everyday life are they?
Face frames query MRMDF
- Thread starter deema
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Molynoox
Established Member
I'm pretty sure that's how fitted furniture is made isn't it?
Peter Millard, gosforth handyman... Both use MRMDF for professionally made fitted cabinets.
I thought that was the standard.
Peter Millard, gosforth handyman... Both use MRMDF for professionally made fitted cabinets.
I thought that was the standard.
TheUnicorn
Established Member
peter millard was my first thought too, I think you need to make sure you get a good quality mrmdf
Bob008
Established Member
He sounds like he knows what he’s talking about the fact he’s going to edge them is a good sign he’s not cutting corners also mdf is actually harder than pine or tulip wood which is commonly used for face frames
mark w
Established Member
What type of hinges will he be using?if it's a concealed cabinet hinge (like a kitchen cabinet hinge) then mdf will work, if it's a butt type hinge then no, the doors will need wooden frames.
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johnnyb
Established Member
I don't but I can't see why not. I like thick doors(25mm plus) but thick mdf is available.
how are you finishing it. I use water based only and mdf isn't as good as wood/ ply. it raises fibres. but many many do use hidrofugo which is better in that respect or use a solvent filling primer.
how are you finishing it. I use water based only and mdf isn't as good as wood/ ply. it raises fibres. but many many do use hidrofugo which is better in that respect or use a solvent filling primer.
Those cabinet hinges were designed because of the MDF doors, the large cup takes all the load much better than a rebated butt.
Molynoox
Established Member
Are we sure that is the reason?
I always assumed their main USP was the weird cam action that allows the door to open when alongside another door
Martin
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
MDF actually has the ability to take around 90kg being hung from a contiguous piece of board. from a single screw before giving way. The gosforth handy mand has a vid about it on his youtube channel from a few years ago. MRMDF is a little bit better given its differing structure.
mark w
Established Member
Is that screw in the face of the board? Put a screw in the edge of mdf under some tension, as you would with a butt hinge and see how long it stays in place. Not long.
TheUnicorn
Established Member
I think both the cup spreading weight and the offsetting action are equally true, and don't contradict each other. The wide surface are of the cup spreads the weight and as I see it supports most of the weight of the door, the screws just stop the door twisting off the hinges but aren't directly taking the weight, compared to a butt hinge where the screws take all the strain
mark w
Established Member
I agree with you, I'm sure they were used long before MDF was used in door manufacturer. Also they are hidden and make door adjustment/alignment much easier.
mpcapri
Member
Not a professional cabinet maker but always wanted to have a go!
Building a few kitchen units for the other half, she explained she would like a big cupboard and two small units, so came up with 1x 1000mm wide x 1920mm high big unit and two standard 500’s to match the existing.
Carcasses were made from cheap B&Q ‘chip central’ furniture board and said I would use MR MDF to make the doors! Also use 18mm MR MDF for the end panels, infills and plinths.
Cut the doors frames 80mm wide using 18mm and the infill panels again using MR MDF 6mm – the long lengths did feel very flimsy however all was fine when assembled and glued together, also knew I would use 4 euro soft-close hinges per large door (no photo of the finished project yet but was surprised how well these worked and did feel robust).
The problem was the painting, being in the building trade I have painted many mdf doors , window boards, skirting etc. However this was another ballgame, the fibres on the 6mm panels kept raising no matter what I tried, thought the edges were going to be the main problem but tried two methods with a sealer and acrylic primer and no problems, the whole doors were like orange peel city, we’ve decided to leave it as is for now and will invest in a spraying machine or something else in the future.
Building a few kitchen units for the other half, she explained she would like a big cupboard and two small units, so came up with 1x 1000mm wide x 1920mm high big unit and two standard 500’s to match the existing.
Carcasses were made from cheap B&Q ‘chip central’ furniture board and said I would use MR MDF to make the doors! Also use 18mm MR MDF for the end panels, infills and plinths.
Cut the doors frames 80mm wide using 18mm and the infill panels again using MR MDF 6mm – the long lengths did feel very flimsy however all was fine when assembled and glued together, also knew I would use 4 euro soft-close hinges per large door (no photo of the finished project yet but was surprised how well these worked and did feel robust).
The problem was the painting, being in the building trade I have painted many mdf doors , window boards, skirting etc. However this was another ballgame, the fibres on the 6mm panels kept raising no matter what I tried, thought the edges were going to be the main problem but tried two methods with a sealer and acrylic primer and no problems, the whole doors were like orange peel city, we’ve decided to leave it as is for now and will invest in a spraying machine or something else in the future.
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Doug71
Established Member
I was going to say I have only made face frames out of solid wood as they generally use butt hinges but thinking about it I have done quite a few cupboards with what I think of as a false face frame. By false face frame I mean using Blum overlay or half overlay hinges on the doors/carcasses then using some MDF uprights between the cabinets to give the effect of face frames and make the doors look inset. Never had any come backs but I do take quite a large arris off all the edges which I think helps the longevity but isn't really a traditional look.
I made this at least 10 years ago, it used to house my tv when I had it on a lift (tv not in it anymore), it's all MDF and has survived fine in a busy family house with two sons growing up bouncing toy cars etc off it.
I made this at least 10 years ago, it used to house my tv when I had it on a lift (tv not in it anymore), it's all MDF and has survived fine in a busy family house with two sons growing up bouncing toy cars etc off it.
