exterior oak door

[colinbala]

hi all,
sorry been a long time since ive been here and just turning up for advice!!
well ive just made a exterior oak door, i usally do indoor furniture and use coloron wood dye and then danish oil and it makes a brilliant finish but im not sure if danish oil will seal the door good enough with it being an exterior door? will it be ok? or any other advice please? someone told me osmo!!!!!? but they have so many products!!! thank you

 

[johnf]

I would use sickens filter 7

 

[Deej]

Depends how exposed the door is to the elements. will need regular recoating with danish oil, never seen it used successfully really on exposed oak.
don't think anyones come up with the perfect exterior oak finish yet.
have had most success personaly with a clear wood preserver and then tung oil.

 

[DKMWT]

Sorry to hi-jack the thread and eating humble pie for not being around for too many years.

I've recently taken up archery and my mate that introduced me to it has asked me to make him a box for his kit. Without thinking about the fittings I went and bought a lump of Oak from the local timber yard for too much. Ripped it into 10mm thick planks then remembered that oak rusts steel. Where the hinges are concerned it's not a problem. I'll just use brass ones. The problem comes with the lock. The plate of the lock is brass but the workings are steel. If I was to cut the recess for the lock then give it a finish of polyurethane varnish then fit the lock, would this be enough to stop the oak rusting the workings of the lock.

Cheers, Donald

 

[Woodfinish Man]

Donald, that should be fine, just make sure you leave the PU Varnish 10 days to allow it to fully cure after the final coat (2-3 recommended).

Best Regards and Happy New Year to one and all.
Ian

 

[gomeraman]

I'd use Danish Oil rather than something like Sickens microporous paint which will spoil the effect of using real oak (even pine would look much the same after applying that). I have a solid oak front door which is about 15 years old which I have treated with Danish oil since it's birth and it's still looking good. It will oxidise to a greyish tone over time though which I rather like. I do give it the occasional sand before re-oiling each year to remove any green algae. Avoid PU varnish which will partially flake off in time leaving a horrible mess.

 

[deema]

I made the back end of 2011 new oak windows that I finished with Tungi oil, I am close to finishing a pair of oak doors and frame that will also be finished in Tungi oil. The windows were finished first to see how we'll they would stand up to the northerly aspect where they get the full battering of the prevailing wind, after 12 months they still look like new, and I haven't had re-coated yet.

The traditional finish for oak was raw linseed oil, but this can take an age to dry. What ever you do, don't use Teak Oil, it can cause the oak to go black.....not immediately but over time.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

i would personally use osmo uv oil, and if added protection is required, and a slight colour change from natural is ok, a microporous stain beforehand, such as IIRC ..... sikkens hls, Country colour, sadolin clasic etc..