experience aftermarket grinding stones for Tormek

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DuncanvdH

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Anybody experience with the coarse after market grinding stones for the
Tormek like:

http://www.fine-tools.com/Tormek.html
(scroll down)

I found I need to regularly take out the diamond tool on the original stone to
keep material removal continuing when regrinding the very tough A2 of
the Lee Valley blades. The coarse stone would be an answer?

Duncan
 
If I have a lot of metal to remove I use a Norton 3X on a cheapo Clarke grinder - much faster a cheaper method?


Rod
 
I find David Charlesworth's advice spot on; make sure you set the support rod 9mm from the wheel (bit of 9mm MDF) Then use the diamond dresser, having set it with a bit of thin card under the business end to reduce the cut (stonesaver). Then don't move the support again, adjust angles by altering blade projection from guide. This ensures wheel and support stay aligned with minimal waste from otherwise unnecessary diamond dressing.

However, this does mean that the wheel can glaze (get clogged up), especially when grinding very hard steel. Instead of re- diamond dressing, (even with the reduced-cut-with-card setting), try the coarse side of the stone grader. A couple of revolutions will probably be enough. DC doesn't like using the stonegrader to get a coarse / fine effect as it can wear the wheel run untrue (and so need diamond dressing). However a brief use of the coarse side will resore the cutting ability without the full diamond treatment.

Tormek have their own wheel (black) for harder tool steel at over a hundred quid, but the above works out a good bit cheaper....
 
I've used one of these for years now - superb. As it's made from col-rolled steel, there's no "flat" side for the backs of plane irons, etc., so some swapping may be needed, depending upon task. Less than a minute's job anyway, so not really a downside. :)

Ray
 
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