End Grain Hollowing, should I consider a Carbide tool?

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Andy's Shed

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I'm having a go at turning a (very) rustic vase, it's green Silver Birch and this is the first turning.

It's a little short of 30 cm tall and after what seems like lots of time and frustration I'm just under 11cm deep into the wood so far. I have tried using a bowl gouge and a spindle gouge, but I'm just getting lots of nasty catches and if doesn't seem like a safe way to proceed. I've made more progress with my bowl scraper, but it really does seem like slow going.

Should I consider getting a Carbide scraper?

My tool rest is quite short and I can see that it might soon be an issue, I'll probable need a tool with a long handle?

Any advice gratefully received.


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Simon Hope sells a professional carbide hollowing tool, that would probably be long enough ( it’s 560mm/ 22inches in length). The downside is that it costs £69 ppp. Still, once bought it will be available for your next project.
 
Simon Hope sells a professional carbide hollowing tool, that would probably be long enough ( it’s 560mm/ 22inches in length). The downside is that it costs £69 ppp. Still, once bought it will be available for your next project.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that. (y)
 
If you'll excuse the pun, you're over extending yourself. By that I mean both your current ability as well as the amount the tool extends over the rest. The further the tool extends the heavier it needs to be & the longer the handle, or the rest needs to extend into the work to give more support.
Easiest way is to drill out with whatever bit you have closest to size, then finish off with a scraper.
 
As you are finding there is only so far you can extend a tool and still be in control. Bigger heavier tools get you a little bit further. Deep hollowing systems usually have a captured tool method to take the leavering forces. They can also be very expensive. Jump on youtube and look at some deep hollowing clips. You will also see plenty adds for hollowing gear. Kind of gets down to deep hollowing needs deep pockets unless you are a bit of a metal worker. Things like that vase of yours I cheat a bit. Drill out the inside with a big forstner bit on an extention bar. Then tidy and pretty up the mouth as far as its safe to go. Purist hollowers will sneer and call it a weed pot but the average non turning sane people will still think you are a champion.
Regards
John
 
Thanks for your replies (y) I had a go with a couple of Foster bits, the biggest I have is 35mm. To be fair they were cheap and not of much help.
 
if u wanna see some dodgey wood being turned *Hollowing* with a carbide....look at about 18mins in....



my wife will be making some items for sale on a production basis......
She wont be using HSS except for finishing.....
PS. will make my own tools....stuff buying them at those prices.....
good luck....
 
Normal forstner bits are pretty ineffective for drilling into end grain, they heat up and blunt very quickly and cut slowly. Saw tooth forstners are better but these are very effective https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forstner-W...21-96be-498a0fd1ec21&pd_rd_i=B07ZPVY1FF&psc=1

Well worth picking up one or two different sizes if you think you will do much of this kind of work. The tungsten carbide stays sharp for ages and the clearance around the body reduces heat build up, cuts very fast too :)
 
A hollowing tool of some form is your best bet with wet wood. It's a great feeling when you acquire the knack and are producing continuous streams of shavings, They are adapted ring tools - with a limiter over the ring to stop dig-ins. I have struggled to use a standard ring tool over the years, but these hollowers are a lot easier..

I have a Simon Hope carbide tool as well, and the tip actually has a cutting lip around it, so it's not really a scraper. I believe these tips are the ones used for aluminium cutting on a metalworking lathe - useful information when you come around to replacing them.
 
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