Eric The Viking
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- 19 Jan 2010
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Sorry Siggy - I missed your post yesterday (at the bottom of the previous page):
Many thanks it sounds very interesting. I'll try to get hold of a copy and have a look.
The things that encourage me to use a leadscrew are these:
I was wondering about achieving a drive engage/disengage function too, by using a big thread and sawing a nut in half (something arranged like a clothes peg possibly, to clamp the nut on the thread and release it).
Also, if I want to go down the "CNC" route I could have a second screw controlling router height. With stepper motors, that might make spheres, etc. relatively straightforward to rough out (for wonky values of "sphere" probably).
So I guess I might adapt Bill's approach. I'll see if I can get his book out of the library locally as a starting point.
Lots more thought required, obviously.
E.
*2mm pitch starts at 14mm nominal diameter, which is maybe a bit big!
siggy_7":1yrbxo2j said:Have you seen Bill Hylton's design for a Router Lathe? As opposed to leadscrews and precision gears, it uses bike gear components. The chuck has a large chain ring on the back of it, which drives a parallel shaft which is attached to a bevel gearbox. This rotates a chain along the bed of the lathe, which can be used to drive the router carriage up and down the bed by cranking it from the front. The router carriage rests on a support at the back which can take a template, so as the router is moved up and down the bed it can generate a profile along the spindle. Because of the gearing (which you can change by using different sprockets on the chuck and the bevel drive) you can rout very impressive looking spirals as well. If you're interested, the plans and details are in "Router Magic".
Many thanks it sounds very interesting. I'll try to get hold of a copy and have a look.
The things that encourage me to use a leadscrew are these:
- Metric thread studding is cheap and easy to obtain in up to 3m lengths.
- The thread pitch, again for the larger sizes, is 1mm, 1.5mm 1.75 and 2mm*, so it will also serve as a fairly precise distance measurement without complicated sums.
- If I want to drive the router lengthwise smoothly, a gearbox + small motor on the end should make that pretty easy, or possibly just coupling up to a drill chuck (I have an old varispeed B+D with a horizontal stand that might be perfect for that).
I was wondering about achieving a drive engage/disengage function too, by using a big thread and sawing a nut in half (something arranged like a clothes peg possibly, to clamp the nut on the thread and release it).
Also, if I want to go down the "CNC" route I could have a second screw controlling router height. With stepper motors, that might make spheres, etc. relatively straightforward to rough out (for wonky values of "sphere" probably).
So I guess I might adapt Bill's approach. I'll see if I can get his book out of the library locally as a starting point.
Lots more thought required, obviously.
E.
*2mm pitch starts at 14mm nominal diameter, which is maybe a bit big!