Edge join 6x2 for garden?

[pe2dave]

I have tried hammering these in, but didn't work. You need to use something to spread the load or somehow press them in. I ended up using nail plates and these nails. Worked very well. The twist nails grip the plates really well, but for real strength, you need a plate at each side.

Fair comment. Similar idea (never heard of those nails!).
Thanks.
@Sandyn I'm curious why it didn't work?
@Myfordman - shortage of rebar? Honestly say I've never had any!

 

[Myfordman]

There could be a rebar shortage I suppose. Not tried to buy any lately. UK only tends to make specialist steels these days so rebar could well be imported

 

[Sandyn]

I'm curious why it didn't work?

The idea is really sound.
The tooth plates are quite thin, and the teeth can be perpendicular to the grain. When I tried hammering them in, the plate deformed, then the teeth started going squint. I also tried spreading the load, but the plate tended to move to one side. These are commonly used by truss manufacturers, but they will press them in, I think. I used nail plates and twist nails when I built my wooden workshop. 12 trusses. 12 nail plates on each and 24 nails per plate. That's almost 3500 nails. The nails are really sturdy, so you can drive then in with one belt of the hammer.

 

[Jameshow]

Sorry James, long edge to long edge, to make a 12/18" high edge to the planter?
Scarf joint would be fun, but not for this use?

I see wrong end of the the stick.

I use 2x2 timber with the top end sawn off at 45° to hide the stake and to make it last a bit longer.

Usually every 4'

I'll be making quite a few over the next few months. Away days for my men's shed ..

 

[MikeJhn]

Road pins and conduit clamps would work.

And don't forget a timber capping piece that you can sit on.

 

[murphy]

I have done a lot of raised beds using 8x4 sleepers and I use 12mm REBAR, I cut the rebar into 10-inch lengths and use a 12mm auger drill bit to drill through the sleeper and 2 inches into the one below, then hammer the rebar through with a lump hammer, it is really solid when finished, just put a screw in to keep the ends from moving while drilling

 

[pe2dave]

Road pins and conduit clamps would work.

Neither term mean anything to me Mike?

 

[Scruples]

The two raised beds that I've made aren't edge jointed at all - as Sandyn says above, just screwed to battens inside works well enough.

G.

I agree. Why make it more complicated than it needs to be? I used tanalised 40 x 70 timber as stakes (pointed at one end) every metre or so. I put the 4 corner stakes in first, to get the raise bed assembled and positioned, then hammer in the other stakes to reinforce the sides.

I buy tanalised decking for the sides screwed with stainless steel screws. From previous projects, I have found that the beds should last about 15 years.

 

[Chris_Pallet]

I built these raised beds about 3 years ago.(when this pic was taken)
Cemented posts
Used 'self tapping' bolt screws
Used cheap metal edge mounts inside
Exterior glue for edge to edge too
Made sure lots of drainage

If I was to do this again

-Not space posts so far apart
-think about a large dowel or make shift domino to join edge to edge
-spend more time and effort lining inside
-make sure its painted every summer

As 3 years on I can see some bowing between some posts on a separate length (may not have happened if joined and additional post)

Good luck with your build

 

[pe2dave]

I built these raised beds about 3 years ago.(when this pic was taken)
Cemented posts
Used 'self tapping' bolt screws
Used cheap metal edge mounts inside
Exterior glue for edge to edge too
Made sure lots of drainage

If I was to do this again

-Not space posts so far apart
-think about a large dowel or make shift domino to join edge to edge
-spend more time and effort lining inside
-make sure its painted every summer

As 3 years on I can see some bowing between some posts on a separate length (may not have happened if joined and additional post)

Good luck with your build

Sorry Chris, clarification please?
Cemented (wooden posts?) into ground?
Screwed boards (2x6 guess?) into posts?
"Metal edge mounts" - not sure what's meant here.

+1 on dowels,
Agree on ~ <=1m post distance
+1 on lining... Open to soil under, so thinking wrap 'under' bottom board, over top one (then decorative board atop that.
+1 on paint (cheaper than rebuild).

Found out what our power bill will likely be... near as dammit 4 times last years!
Makes me think about any new projects!

 

[Jonm]

I always feel metal plates are a bit of a design failure.

There are 60 million or so, of these in uk, we have a big problem if they are a “design failure”.

 

[pe2dave]

There are 60 million or so, of these in uk, we have a big problem if they are a “design failure”.

How about a design failure for hand application.
Given the right tool press, they're likely successful, as you point out.

 

[accipiter]

Most of these raised bed frame containers are seen as made with battens nailed on the insides of the frames/side boards. Mind they aren't all made from 8x2...

I was going to suggest along the lines that @murphy has said, using rebar as metal dowels. If probs getting the rebar or too costly then replace with 6" galvanised nails - cut off the heads, drill 3" holes in the edges of the timber etc. Line the insides afterwards.

 

[Doug71]

I made mine out of pressure treated 6x2, just used some 2x2 on the inside corners to screw into. Didn't put the 2x2 in the ground as the ones I took out had been put in the ground and rotted away to nothing. Instead of fixing the 6x2 tight together on edge I left a 3mm gap between them to let a bit of air in, don't know if it's a good idea or not

I do think whatever you do softwood raised beds look scruffy after a year or two so not worth over thinking it.

 

[MikeJhn]

Road pins: Steel Fencing & Road Pins 8mm - Pack of 10

Conduit saddles: 20mm Galvanised Spacer Bar Saddles

Pins driven into the ground and attached to the timbers with the saddles.

 

[pe2dave]

Road pins: Steel Fencing & Road Pins 8mm - Pack of 10

Conduit saddles: 20mm Galvanised Spacer Bar Saddles

Pins driven into the ground and attached to the timbers with the saddles.

thanks Mike. Live and learn!

 

[pe2dave]

Youtube offerings. Corrugated tin and ....
I liked this one, except "corner roof flashing" (3x3"), US terminology?

Durable? Should be.

 

[okeydokey]

+1 for battens screwed from the inside so you dont have ugly rust/screw marks in due course.

 

[pe2dave]

Cheapskates? (OK, I am from Yorks )
This I like

 

[Rockolababy]

Pressure treated 6x2, edge on, making a raised planter.
Suggestions for joining them please, out all year.
Any galvenised .... roof joining plate thingies?
Or other suggestions? Pretty? No. inside joints.

Hi Best and easiest way is to buy a length of 75 x 75mm pressure treated Arris rail cut 4 pieces to fit your four corners then screw 3 or 4 decking screws from both sides to fix the arris rail to your 6x2. Or use oak sleepers for a proper job !