EB HC260M Planer Thicknesser set up & manual request

[Togalosh]

Evening Gents,

I have recently acquired an EB HC260M as well as a long, pricey, straight edge & now need some set up advice please.

1) Both tables are flat but with the straight edge resting on both tables (& obviously spanning the cutter block) it shows a small gap in the centre - both tables tilt down into the centre.. does this matter ? I could not find my feeler gauges so I cannot tell you what the gap is but it's probably no more than 0.5mm.

If it does matter then how do I go about adjusting the pitch of the tables?

2) Blades; it came with disposable blades, are resharpenable blades available & which are better ?

3) I need a user/parts manual please - if anyone could let me have a copy I'd be very grateful. A look through old posts shows a few links that require a Microsoft Edge account.. which I don't have.

4) Are there any tips you could give me regarding this or PT's in general ? I know they bite hard so I intend to show it due deference.

Many Thanks
Togs

 

[YorkshireMartin]

0.5mm is a fair amount but then again I am really picky about these things. Why this matters is because the timber will be fed further up the tables.

Imagine \_/ to exaggerate it. Now place your stock on there at the top. It's going to be sitting higher up the tables than the straight edge due to the angle of the tables. You're seeing 0.5mm with a straight edge, but stock which spans the length of your tables will exaggerate this further, unless your straight edge is full width. Im not very good at explaining, sorry.

Try planing some stock first, see where you end up. There is a lot of information on technique on this forum and also on youtube. I started from scratch too and after a few hundred meters of timber, I'm reasonably proficient.

How long is your straight edge and what type?

Oh and personally I'd go for HSS blades and have the local saw sharpening person keep them pristine.

Sorry I can't help with a manual or instructions for making your tables co-planar, I'm not familiar with that model of PT.

PS. It just occurred to me. What you're describing about the tables. It sounds as though someone has lifted the machine using the table ends, which is a massive no-no with planer thicknessers. Shouldn't be too bad to sort out though.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

Tips I can give from my own learning as a PT virgin, in no particular order:

A decent set of push pads really helps. Push sticks are nigh on useless for PT's.

Starting with softwoods like pine leads to better technique. The B&Q plastic wrapped stuff will have all manner of weirdness, cups, twists, you name it. As such, it's the ideal timber to learn your PT with. If you can straighten and flatten that, you're making progress, plus, it's cheap. Then, once you've flattened and dimensioned it perfectly, simply leave overnight in the house and it will become a completely new banana. It's just the perfect accessory for planer thicknesser practice. :lol:

Don't try to plane too fast, especially with hardwoods. Slow and steady depending on the width of the cut being made and the type of wood. As an initial guide, try to replicate the speed at which the thicknesser takes in the wood with the feed rollers. You might want to go slower or faster depending on what you're doing, but thats a good starting point for any given machine.

Check the fence for square and secure every time you use the planer.

Have good dust extraction and wear safety glasses. Also be aware that chips will hit you on the arm (and sting a little) when you're feeding timber, at least they do on my planer..lol It caught me by surprise the first time and my wood suffered. :lol:

Check that your blades are correctly set and that thicknessing produces the desired result as per the scale shown on the machine. Again, B&Q timber is ideal to waste in this manner.

For squaring the first edge of rough sawn stock, apply reasonable lateral pressure against the fence, rather than any downward pressure.

Feed timber slowly and at a constant speed, stopping isn't advisable. It takes a while to get the hang of, particularly on long stock, but hand over hand works, taking care not to go near the blades.

Always plane cupped timber with the cup downwards to the table, same goes for bowed timber, it has to be ends down.

Downward pressure should really only be applied on the outfeed table. This is particularly important with bowed timber. You take the front of the arc off then apply pressure on the outfeed table once around 1/3rd of the timber has passed the cutter, forcing the tail to take the same line. If you applied pressure over the cutter, you'd get a banana. This takes practice.

Apply appropriate lubricating wax to the planer beds and fence, it really helps, not to mention stopping the cast iron rusting. I use Liberon liquid machine wax.

Plane with the grain. So generally, the grain wants to appear as \\\\\\\\ on the edge of the stock as you plane it., helps prevent tearout, as do sharp blades.

Thin raised lines in planed stock indicate chipped blades.

Stick to timber that is within the length of your planer beds to start with. Taking a bow out of stock that exceeds the length of your planer beds is quite hard (and potentially unsafe if you use the traditional method). Thats why a lot of people use extensions, something I need to look at doing myself.

 

[Hemsby]

I can copy my manual for you so can you PM me your email. I will try to scan it tomorrow. However it does not cover the alignment of the tables to each other.

Only the out feed table has any leveling adjustment (grub screws) but if needed with careful use of shim it is possible to get the tables accuratly in line. Any "concave" in the tables is pretty much unsolvable without machining, although if it is confined close to the blade drum it should not cause too much problem.

If you have a straight edge its a good start. But if you have or can get access to a DTI indicator it will make your setting up much easier/reliable

Keith

 

[Togalosh]

YorkshireMartin: Thanks for the detailed help - that's great. Lots to take in but all sound advice it seems.

The straight edge is the 36" Veritas so it almost reaches end to end...& it is possible that I lifted it by the table (but not again though). I didn't even know about machine table wax ..it's in the basket already. Blades - from Metabo I guess ?

Hemsby: PM about to be sent - thank you very much for your help - it's much appreciated. As it happens I have just taken delivery of my 1st DTI with a magnetic stand (I've been on a little spending spree lately). How should I use it on the PT though ? I have set the blades by using the level of the infeed table with a flat ruler.

I have had a Dewalt thicknesser for years & had to do the blade setting the fiddly way on that as the setting tool was rubbish.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

YorkshireMartin: Thanks for the detailed help - that's great. Lots to take in but all sound advice it seems.

The straight edge is the 36" Veritas so it almost reaches end to end...& it is possible that I lifted it by the table (but not again though). I didn't even know about machine table wax ..it's in the basket already. Blades - from Metabo I guess ?

Hemsby: PM about to be sent - thank you very much for your help - it's much appreciated. As it happens I have just taken delivery of my 1st DTI with a magnetic stand (I've been on a little spending spree lately). How should I use it on the PT though ? I have set the blades by using the level of the infeed table with a flat ruler.

I have had a Dewalt thicknesser for years & had to do the blade setting the fiddly way on that as the setting tool was rubbish.

Any HSS blades of the correct size will likely do. I think they are about £12 a pair from Axminster. I've just bought another set as spares but they have yet to be used. I'm not sure why my original blades came from. New blades will probably need sharpening straight away, hence my spare set, so I've always got a set in the machine.

When it comes to blade changes, its probably worth reading up. You might benefit from a blade setting jig (Axminster ones have mixed reviews - see forum posts). This is a little beyond my knowledge at the moment, but from what people told me, if the blades are sprung, a jig or something to take the place of a jig, is pretty much essential to maintain even pressure on the blades as you position them. Lots of threads on setting blades on the forum anyway.

Cast iron is more delicate than I first thought. It sounds like you'll be able to correct the problem with a bit of effort and as long as nobody lifts the planer by the tables again, you'll be fine and dandy I'm sure. To be honest, it might not even be damaged I was just guessing, 0.5mm could be within spec for that machine but if it were mine I'd want to correct it but as I say, I'm a bit OCD about such things. If you're cabinet making, it pays to start with material thats as accurately machined as possible I'd think.

 

[Togalosh]

I need to be more OCD about machine fettling - as you say accuracy is key. I need to find my feeler gauges.

 

[Hemsby]

Like you I bought a second hand machine and started setting up from the top of the machine, got the blades and tables nicely set only to find a .5mm error across the stock when using the thicknesser (posted here back early last year) Very nearly started a repair on the thicknesser mechanism (hammer) , would have been a major job as well as a mistake.

As the machine is basically aluminium and susceptible to rough handling and distortion you need to start by checking that the thicknesses table is parallel to the cutter block (not the blades) across the width of the thicknesses table using your DTI. I started to write a post with my method of setting up but it started to read like War & Peace so decided that pictures paint’s a thousand words. I will take a few pictures tomorrow then together with a FEW words it may then make sense

I have single edge slotted blades on mine they are thicker than the disposable type, also much more expensive and not as readily available. The cutter blocks are different in design

 

[Togalosh]

Like you I bought a second hand machine and started setting up from the top of the machine, got the blades and tables nicely set only to find a .5mm error across the stock when using the thicknesser (posted here back early last year) Very nearly started a repair on the thicknesser mechanism (hammer) , would have been a major job as well as a mistake.

As the machine is basically aluminium and susceptible to rough handling and distortion you need to start by checking that the thicknesses table is parallel to the cutter block (not the blades) across the width of the thicknesses table using your DTI. I started to write a post with my method of setting up but it started to read like War & Peace so decided that pictures paint’s a thousand words. I will take a few pictures tomorrow then together with a FEW words it may then make sense

I have single edge slotted blades on mine they are thicker than the disposable type, also much more expensive and not as readily available. The cutter blocks are different in design

Saying to start from the underside I feel is a priceless bit of advice - ace !

..I could mount the DTI to the stand with actuator/plunger (?) against the block & run the stand along the end of a clamped board lined up with the block ??

Where did you get your blades from please ? Miles are selling them for £52 a pair & seem to be the only ones online that I can see with the correct part number. Axi don't reference the Metabo part number with their blades.

 

[Hemsby]

No need for any clamped blocks.

To check the cutter block is parallel with the thicknesses table.
Remove the out feed table. It can be a bit of a juggle but position your DTI on the thicknesses table with the pointer touching one end (close as possible) of the cutter block moving it slightly backwards and forwards (along the table direction) to find the high/low point (centre) of the block diameter, at that point set the dial to zero. Carefully move your DTI to the other end of the block and repeat the first action. Hopefully there will be very little difference in the reading. Repeat this test a few times to check your result =D> .

 

[galleywood]

Hemsby

Is there a way of remedying a significant difference from one end to the other?

 

[Hemsby]

Hemsby

Is there a way of remedying a significant difference from one end to the other?

I assume you meant difference across the width of the table :?: have you checked yours if so what would you call significant :?:

Short answer, no simple way . There is no built in adjustment, assuming the cutter block & bearings are fitted correctly in their location there seems to be only two reasons why there would be “significant” discrepancies between the thicknesser table and cutter block across the width.

Distortion in the Aluminium framework or the table lift mechanism out of sync for some reason .

The table rise and fall is controlled from the handle through a chain & sprockets on each corner of the screw threads which probably would need some very careful set up (hammer) once disturbed could be a can of worms #-o .

There is a grub screw visible on each screw thread where they meet the table these are only to remove backlash between the thread and their respective bronze nut.

 

[galleywood]

I bought that model recently and have been doing some simple maintenance.
I will soon be looking to set it up, hence my interest in your comment and I wondered if you knew of an adjustment.

 

[Hemsby]

No need for any clamped blocks.

To check the cutter block is parallel with the thicknesses table.
Remove the out feed table. It can be a bit of a juggle but position your DTI on the thicknesses table with the pointer touching one end (close as possible) of the cutter block moving it slightly backwards and forwards (along the table direction) to find the high/low point (centre) of the block diameter, at that point set the dial to zero. Carefully move your DTI to the other end of the block and repeat the first action. Hopefully there will be very little difference in the reading. Repeat this test a few times to check your result =D> .

Photo taken today fortunatley mine has almost no variation :roll:

Before levelling the tables it is a good idea to check the sliding operation of the infeed table. Lightly nip tight the 2 screws either side of the table then just loosen all the screws by the same amount just a whisper until the table moves smoothly using the control knob.

With the outfeed table back in position place the base of your DTI on the outfeed table close to the cutter block and again at one end, find the centre of the cutter block by moving the DTI slightly back and forth across the cutter block, at the point the DTI changes direction zero the dial. Carefully slide the DTI across to the other side of the block, again slide the pointer across to find the centre and compare the reading. There should be very little difference. Repeat the whole operation several times to ensure you get consistent readings.

At this point do not get distracted with readings at the middle of the table (other than for curiosity)

Ideally there should be no difference. If there is, the only way to rectify this is by placing shim on the “low” side between the strip bolted to the underside of the table. Then carry out the checks again.

Whatever reading variation you settle on needs to be repeated on the infeed table at approximately the same positions at the end of the cutter block using shim if necessary.

I hope it does not seem like I have been trying to teach Grandmother to suck eggs . Just attempting to lay out my method for all including those who may not be too familiar with measuring & checking.

More to bore you with tomorrow

 

[Togalosh]

Hiya Hemsby.. Thanks for all your help. I had wrote a reply to your emails only to delete it when I got distracted ..grr !

I see you have a much more appropriate clamp to hold the DTI than mine... I have tool envy again. Your method is much more simple than what I had thought up - measure in 2 places instead of all along the block, ace.

I am a 'service engineer' but that is a job title that is over-egged & a slight against those who went to university with big brains. I do not have enough real engineering knowledge for my liking but it's improving all the time thanks to you & others here.

Blades: I am getting a bit muddled. The part number from Metabo for resharpenable HSS blades brings up solid blades on various sites but I think I need ones with holes in as the disposable blades have. The ones in your link have slots in - so that's 3 types. My disposable blades have 4 holes & 2 edges each.

You'd have to go a long way further to bore me & all advice is taken as intended & with gratitude.

Togs

 

[Hemsby]

Hi,

More than happy to help.

Your magnetic base & DTI will be fine just a bit more control needed when “sliding it about”

Might be worth running a fine stone or needle file around the mag base edges/corners so as not to damage the Aluminium surfaces on your machine :idea:

I would suggest you give Appleby Wood Turnings 01283 212384 a call regarding your blades, with the length. Width, thickness, number of holes and the machine model I found them very helpful when sourcing my blades.

I will post more pictures & information tomorrow regarding the final setup steps not much more to go =D> .

Sometimes during the setup process adjusting one area you may have to recheck previous settings #-o a bit frustrating, but the time spent initially is well worth it.

Just in case you get in a further buying mode this link is for the Multi gauge used in the photo’s it is invaluable on many machines and applications. Cheaper now than when I bought mine :-x

http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Woodwor ... uring.html

Keith

 

[Hemsby]

CONTINUATION

Assuming you have both tables levelled up at the cutter block, next is to check the tables using a straight edge & feeler gauges (probably the most laborious part of the setting).
Raise the infeed table so it is slightly above the outfeed. Place the straight edge on the tables at the rear it must span the full length of both tables.


With your best dexterity maintain pressure on the straight edge on the infeed table while slowly dropping the infeed table until the straight edge just makes contact somewhere on the outfeed.
Then using the feeler gauge adjust the outfeed table grub screw up or down to get contact all along the straight edge on the oufeed table, (remember to loosen the lever before adjusting the grub screw then tighten the lever)
It is advisable to alternate this operation in stages between the rear & front of the table.

You may find as I did that there was insufficient on the grub screws to level the table, so shim will be necessary. If you place shim in localised positions it is best to place shim either side of screws if possible, to reduce possible distortion.

When you are happy with your results check for flatness across the tables at different points. All you have to do is re check everything on the top tables again #-o Making final adjustments.

Blade setting =D>
I find the only real problem to be avoided is distorting the blades when tightening the securing bolts so I prefer to use a DTI using a flat plunger adaptor turning the cutter block slightly to obtain the high point of the blade, you can see exactly whats happening getting precise results.



As my machine has only a small area close to the blades it is easy to use the DTI working around the undulation.


These initial checks & adjustments can be quite frustrating as some have to be done more than once. However once set you are assured of reliable blade setting and super parallel thicknessing. Of course we are dealing with timber and are never going to get mega accuracy, but hopefully starting with a well set machine will result in less hair pulling later.

 

[galleywood]

Hemsby

Do you find that you have to re-level the outfeed table each time you replace it after thicknessing?

Is it a problem to keep track of where any shims need to go?

Thanks

 

[Hemsby]

Hemsby

Do you find that you have to re-level the outfeed table each time you replace it after thicknessing?

Is it a problem to keep track of where any shims need to go?

Thanks

No the table returns same place each time, likewise if you have to shim the infeed table

Both infeed & outfeed table castings have a metal strip bolted either side underneath. If shims are needed you slacken the screws of the strip on the side of the table that needs adjusting and place the shim/shims in the appropriate position between the strip and casting. tighten screws again and the shims are trapped permanently in position.



Sorry if I did not make it clear

 

[galleywood]

That's good.

As I said in a previous post, I am about to setup my own one so this info. is invaluable to me - thanks.