dust extractor electric question/help

[cornucopia]

Hello folks

I am terrible with electrics and I need some help with an electrical problem please!!

I’ve got a cyclone dust extractor which has a self cleaning thing on the filter- I switch the machine off then a separate little motor switches on and rattles the filter shaking out and dust from between the pleats and hopefully keeping the suction level high.
This all works great but the shaker is very noisy and I don’t think it’s needed every time I turn it off.

I would like to fit a switch between the on off box and the little shaker motor so I can choose to turn it on maybe once a day instead of all the time- there is a round cable which runs from one to the other with a red/blue and white core cables inside

My (long winded :roll: ) question is what type of switch do I need to fit?

If anyone could point me in the right direction and maybe supply a link I’d really appreciate it.

 

[Chrispy]

Sounds a bit like the DCE extractor that I have, when the timer switch broke I just disconected it and wired in a new NVR contactor switch just for the shaker and operate that as and when "I" think it needs it.

 

[Racers]

Hi, cornucopia

An inline switch would be easy to, fit depending on the rating of the motor. Google inline switch.

Pete

 

[cornucopia]

thank you for your replies- i've googled inline switch's and found loads of options- i get a bit muddled with amps and HZ etc so i've taken some pics

here's the main on/off box and the wire going to the shaker motor on the left and the wire going to the main motor on the right

and here's the shaker motor

it says:220/240V 1 (circle with line diagonally thru it) 50hz 0.14/0.12A 0.8uF

what size switch should I fit?

 

[Racers]

Hi, cornucopia

2A inline switch will do, should be able to get one from Wilcos.

Pete

 

[cornucopia]

Thanks Pete

 

[cornucopia]

Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I have finally got a inline switch and am now not sure how to wire it!!

I’m told that I need to strip of the outer sleeve to reveal the inner three cores then cut the live wire and wire it into the switches terminals then let the other two wires run thru the switch uncut
is that right and if so how do I find out which colour is live?
I have three colours red, blue and white

 

[Giff]

Hi Cornucopia
Can you find a friendly electrician. I am like you and could easily blow things up. I followed an old thread on here to wire my dust extractor so that I could use a remote wireless radio switch ( 13amp maplin type). The thread showed a wiring diagram and a list of parts that would make that work. I bought all the parts and asked an electrician I know to fit them....he said I didn't need the new switch and box and wired it up with a small piece of wire in about 5 minutes. To put it back to original I can remove the wire, about 20 seconds ! and nothing blew up... Geoff

 

[CHJ]

....I have three colours red, blue and white

The easy answer is use an AC mains rated voltmeter but that's something you obviously don't have.

Can you access the end of the three core at the main switch box or the vibrator motor terminal cover.

Determine which of the wires is connected to the frame, I.E. the earthing core.

Once you have determined the two feed wires, as far as stopping the vibrator running is concerned it does not matter which wire you break with the switch.

Remember:-- Power off and disconnected at all times.


The vibrator motor would appear to be a standard induction motor, can't find the exact model but this is from the same company

 

[Togalosh]

There should be a live, neutral & earth wire.core in that 3 core flex.

You want to switch the live (otherwise the unit is always live - not best practise). You could use a light switch to do this but it won't be advisable.. you could've put a plug on that flex & plugged it in to a socket (making sure to rate the fuse accordingly).

To find which is the live you'll need a volt stick (not ideal for pin pointing) , or multimeter...or possibly trace the wiring back through your motor starter & back to your power supply where it should be brown...I say should... It might also be stated on the terminal/connector block inside the motor casing/housing.

Just keep the number of connections to a minimum & all done up nice & tightly - including all enclosures. Loose, hot connections & dust is not a good mix.

HTH

 

[cornucopia]

Thank you for all of your help- my dad has an old avo meter- I will try and twist his arm into lending it me (or better still giving me a on site demo!!)

 

[Togalosh]

This shouldn't break the bank..

http://www.screwfix.com/p/philex-83007r ... tAodZ3YATg

& the clamp is useful for testing amperage. If you have

Put the leads in (there's only 1 way to do this), with VAC selected, touch 1 lead to possible live & other to a known earth - if you get a reading around 230 you've found it.. or select continuity/ohms, touch both leads together & listen to the beep then try testing the wire again & if it gives a different beep you've found the neutral.