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PS Hope I'm not hijacking the thread

Not a problem as far as I am concerned.

I haven't been around for a while so it's interesting to see how the thread has progressed.

What I was looking for was a temporary solution to an immediate need.

However I have to say that my purchase has more than satisifed me - particularly as it cost so little.

The only problem I had with the Ferm was that the keyway in the slide did not lock the head at 90 degrees to the table.
I spoke to Fern who were very helpful and explained how to correct it - which I did very quickly and easily.

The technical guy at Ferm was surprised at my problem and said they have sold a lot of these with very few problems (but he does work for them).

Although it has a drill depth capability of 100mm, I am mostly using it for drilling 25mm ply, aluminium up to 10mm and occassionally 6mm phenolic. Hole sizes from 5mm to 20mm (with flat bit).

So far after a weeks use it has proven quiet, accurate and reliable.
If this keeps up for even just another week or two it will have paid for itself 3 fold.
 
BrianD":27bp5zoe said:
Motor stalls
The bits are new and are Jobquick Forstner 25mm into pine.
All I'm trying to do is get some information about what, how and why.

I'm not familiar with the Jobquick bits, but Forstners I am familiar with. They bore extremely cleanly with a nice flat-bottomed hole, but they need to be kept extremely sharp and they are unsuited to deep boring as they have a natural tendency to clog extremely quicky. I find that they cut slowy and can be prone to blunting. If you don't absolutely need a flat-bottomed hole, have you considered trying an auger bit instead? The threaded centre point generally ensures that the cutter is pulled in positively and they clear waste somewhat better.

Scrit
 
pewe":1nbugade said:
The only problem I had with the Ferm was that the keyway in the slide did not lock the head at 90 degrees to the table.
I spoke to Fern who were very helpful and explained how to correct it - which I did very quickly and easily.

Out of curiosity, what was the 'fix' for this?

Does yours slide back and forth easily? Mine juddered like hell...once it finally decided to move..
 
Out of curiosity, what was the 'fix' for this?

It was simple. There are 8 allen grub screws which hold the motor housing at the back and the spindle housing at the front to the slide bar.
I loosened the 4 holding the spindle and twisted it (not a lot as it was only about 5 deg out) to 90 degrees and re-tightened them.

Does yours slide back and forth easily? Mine juddered like hell...once it finally decided to move..

It was stiff at first, but I wiped over the slide bar with white spirit to clean off the protective film and then sprayed it with silicon spray = and now its fine.
 
Thanks for that.

My keyway is so sloppy that even when in position you can rotate the drill head.

I also cleaned my slider like you but to little avail. Guess some of us are luckier than others with ferm QC.
 
My keyway is so sloppy that even when in position you can rotate the drill head.

Roger that shouldn't be too much of a problem as I assume that the wobble is only when you have the clamping screw loose.

In an earlier post I said

My only critiscism would be that the key which fits the slot on the sliding bar is not an extremely tight fit, and when returning the head to verticl position it needs careful attention to make sure it is square - but this will be easily resolved when I have a minute to attend to it.

Try this
= Loosen the sliding bar clamping screw
- Twist the head to the left or right (your prference) so it is hard up against the key.
- Tighten the clamping screw.
- loosen the four grub screws so the head is free to rtate on the sliding bar
- locate the shat so it is at 90 gegree to the table (use a square on the table up against a 10mm drill in the chuck to do this)
- tighten the grub screws.
- lower the table so that you can now check that the drill is running true to the square as the pillar is lowered towards the table (it should be)

Now you have a reference point for 90 degrees.
Each time you rotate the head then return to upright, or if you loosen the clamp to slide the head in or out, just make sure that the head is fully twisted hard against the key before you clamp it.
Once clamped it won't move.

Hope this resolves the problem - it did with mine.
 
Thanks Scrit,

I think you points are valid, probably wrong tool for the job then.

See :roll: :D :D I learn something every day. Dammit, just when I thought I had a handle on it! Now to buy Auger bits.

Thx
 
Has anybody had experience of the Axminster Perform CCRDFS Radial Pillar Drill?

I've had a small rexon for years but want something with a bit more grunt. Is this product any good?

Thanks

mike
 
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