Drainage - Plastic to Clay pipe

[Tenacity]

Doing a short run of surface drain. The underground clay is 180/160 and I have a plastic level invert offset reducer (try saying that after a dram or two) to drop in to the 160 and connect up to 110. There is no seal so would it be best to use a silicone bead around it to stabilise the joint or an adhesive seal? Once in place there will be no strain on the socket/joint. Thanks for imparting your knowledge, hopefully.

 

[artie]

I worked in agricultural land drainage for a few years in my youth.
We never reduced the size of a pipe it always increased in size as it lengthened

 

[Daniel2]

That's what the OP is saying @artie .
His existing drain is 160mm ID, and he's connecting a
110mm to it via a reducer.
FWIW @Tenacity , I don't think you need to seal the pipe
in that situation.

 

[Tenacity]

That's what the OP is saying @artie .
His existing drain is 160mm ID, and he's connecting a
110mm to it via a reducer.
FWIW @Tenacity , I don't think you need to seal the pipe
in that situation.

Thanks Daniel2 I had wondered about that, now as a result of your comment I have just realised once connected, and then back filled it can't go anywhere. I like it when a plan comes together, with a little help from my friends

 

[Tenacity]

I worked in agricultural land drainage for a few years in my youth.
We never reduced the size of a pipe it always increased in size as it lengthened

Thanks Artie, as Daniel2 put, below ground I am connecting to the larger clay pipework, reducing it up to 110mm for a surface drain, so the flow goes from the drain, through a small distance of 110mm into the existing 160mm. Would have been easier with a sketch with words It's amazing how many other trades I had to learn about when I trained as a joiner and I've forgot much more than I can remember

 

[artie]

Ahh me getting things *** backwards again.

In that case we just shoved the small pipe inside the bigger pipe about a foot put a few larger stones around it and then some finer gravel and this added another exit for the surface/ground water.

 

[RichardG]

It's more important to make sure the drainage flows cleanly and in the right direction than sealing it. It's worth putting shingle round the joint, allows for a bit for movement and will still drain even it it becomes uncoupled.

 

[Tenacity]

It's more important to make sure the drainage flows cleanly and in the right direction than sealing it. It's worth putting shingle round the joint, allows for a bit for movement and will still drain even it it becomes uncoupled.

Thanks sounds good idea to me

Ahh me getting things *** backwards again.

In that case we just shoved the small pipe inside the bigger pipe about a foot put a few larger stones around it and then some finer gravel and this added another exit for the surface/ground water.

That also works for me, careful I'll star subbing for groundworks next, nah 66 a bit old to start that game

 

[Turnr77]

At any builders merchants you can get black silicone rubber pipe joiners, secured over the pipes with s/steel hose clamps that allow different pipes to be connected and seal perfectly.

 

[Tenacity]

I'm using one of these as it couples but also gives me an offset I need to line up with the surface drain 110 outlet, haven't seen the rubber connectors with an offset, so this should work just fine with a bit o fettlin