Dovetail template

[Berncarpenter]

I had a look at your photobucket and your work is really impressive.
I noticed you had a Knew Concepts saw and I struggled a little with mine for a while until I contacted Matthew of Workshop Heaven. Admittedly I was working with very hard and brittle unsteamed pear but the 9R Skip Reverse blade he recommended was brilliant and I could cut right up to the knife line with ease and have no breakout on the back side. Not sure what blades you use but for a couple of pounds, it might be worth a try given the number of dovetails you are going to be cutting in the near future.
Hope you can post some pictures of your Shwarz Class - I did have a think about it when it was first advertised as I'm in commuting distance from but I'm afraid I need to up my skill levels (a lot) before I would undertake something like that.
Glynne

Thanks for the comment on my work Glynne.
I have some fine blade for the Knew saw and found that for softwood they are not aggressive enough to make really fast cuts that are needed for the dovetail challenge . They are fine for hardwood and especially when using a very fine kerf jap saw. Not sure what skip they are but thanks for the tip i will give those 9R blades a try.I will try and post some of what goes on in the Schwarz class .Not sure if i will have time to stop and take photos as the coarse sounds pretty intense , also i will have to ask if photos are allowed.
Sorry for the slow response i have been out car booting and have been out all day.
Cheers Bern

 

[morfa]

Bern - I think these are the ones:

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Peg ... _Wood.html

I've got a pack and they're nice. But I don't get on well with my kreg to be honest. Blades break so easily. Dunno if that's just a fact of how they work, or it's just me.

I reckon Schwartzy will be fine with you taking photos. He certainly puts loads up on his blog. Also I think you'll be definitely in the top of the class. Those dovetails you were doing in under 9 minutes looked nice. I reckon you'll be able to get faster as well.

 

[kernowjoiner24]

That's a nice little tool ! And good work on all those dovetails, The last set look even neater than the first !

 

[Berncarpenter]

Thanks for the WH link Morfa i will try a few different packs of blades .I little tip for you if you are breaking allot of blades , make sure you fit the blade with the teeth facing you . The blade is then pulled straight and tight when its cutting and so less likely to break. Think of it like a peace of string pull it and it straightens , push it and it bends. If you have the same blades as in the link the teeth are facing both ways from the outside of the saw into the middle , this could be your problem .

Dont know about being at the top of the class , i will be happy if i can just keep up with everyone else and not make a *** of myself.
I am looking forward to it and will be hoovering up as many tips and tricks as i can .

That's a nice little tool ! And good work on all those dovetails, The last set look even neater than the first !

Thanks i was pleased with the way it turned out . Practice i have found to be very helpful especially with time taken and it doesnt take that long before you get the hang of it once you find the tools that work for you.

Cheers Bern

 

[Johnandp]

Lovely little tool! I've been looking at david Barron's guide for a little while but I'm not so keen since he's gone to ally. I know they are probably more accurate but there is nothing like wooden tools!
I reckon you could sell them! Put me down for one if you consider it! ;-)
Regards
John

 

[Berncarpenter]

Lovely little tool! I've been looking at david Barron's guide for a little while but I'm not so keen since he's gone to ally. I know they are probably more accurate but there is nothing like wooden tools!
I reckon you could sell them! Put me down for one if you consider it! ;-)
Regards
John

Hi John
Thanks for the kind words. No plans on making these to sell just thought i would share with forum members.

Cheers Bern

 

[Berncarpenter]

http://tinyurl.com/ngsgmg3[/quote]

Roger Picked up some ali angle from the car boot for 50p and knocked out a template tonight.

Cut on my old chop saw with a triple chip blade and some timber backing

The saw isnt very accurate so had to file square and then cleaned up with 240 grit paper on a granite slab

At the Yandles show on Saturday had a chat with David Barron , showed him the timber template and asked him if he would be ok with me selling these . He said as long as i dont set up a stall next to him at shows thats fine . So i may consider making some to sell if i get enough interest in them now i know i wont upset anyone .

Cheers Bern

 

[Jacob]

Traditionally most DTs were done freehand. It's very easy you don't need a template. If you do want to set them out more precisely a sliding bevel will do it - and you aren't stuck with arbitrary angles.

 

[DTR]

Traditionally most DTs were done freehand. It's very easy you don't need a template. If you do want to set them out more precisely a sliding bevel will do it - and you aren't stuck with arbitrary angles.

Having a guide doesn't mean you have to stick to that angle, and my guide (made from an offcut and took a few minutes to make) is a lot more convenient than using a sliding bevel

 

[Berncarpenter]

Traditionally most DTs were done freehand. It's very easy you don't need a template. If you do want to set them out more precisely a sliding bevel will do it - and you aren't stuck with arbitrary angles.

Hi Jacob
I can cut the tails without marking and have managed with a lot of practice to get them square across the top but find getting the angles to match up a problem. Right hand side seems fine but the left is just a little out .I must admit that that sawing without following a line is quite liberating but the results arent that good yet. Marking with a sliding bevel i find to be a fiddle and if the template is the same size as the tail its really quick.

Using the template makes for a more uniform and good looking joint.

Cheers Bern

 

[Jacob]

Easiest to do are the thin single kerf ones (sometimes called "London pattern" for no obvious reason).
The second cut starts in the kerf of the first cut. Only for half blind ones (drawer fronts etc) as they don't work so well through and are a bit weak for boxes
After a bit they all come out near enough the same and a bit of irregularity doesn't really matter - it's hand made innit!