Double glazing workshop

[sparkus88]

Hi,

I am about to order a workshop but the standard windows are just plate glass. I have a couple of large double glazing units I bought a while ago when I planned to build my workshop from scratch, which I've finally admitted to myself I don't half the time to do myself.

The company, Heritage Fencing, which will be making my workshop have said they can build the walls around the units I have, although not fit them. My question is what's the best way to fit them so they are completely sealed between the wood frame and the PVC double glazing unit.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Wuffles]

Foam and/or long screws and/or silicone is the norm. Sometimes just foam, which scares the **** out of me.

Depends on the finish interior and exterior and the tolerances of the opening they're creating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RobinBHM]

I guess you have some upvc windows rather than just some sealed units?

The simplest way is to get the makers to form the openings 10mm bigger in width and height. When you fit them, screw the windows in place with wedge packers and silicone the gsp. Once in, you could fit some side cheeks to finish the sides which will neatly close off the ends of the weatherboarding and cover the silicone. I would stop the side cheeks 5mm above the window cills so the ends dont sit in water.

 

[biskit]

If the DG units are going in timber frames, make sure you have an air gap all round and drain holes in the bottom. Seal the glass to the frame with silicone.like said don't let them sit in water.

 

[sparkus88]

This is one of the windows I have I'm thinking of fitting.

Screws and silicone was my initial thought, with some like this to protect the ends of the cladding boards. Which I think is pretty whats been suggested.

Should the window be slightly recessed from the outside or flush to the cladding?

make sure you have an air gap all round and drain holes in the bottom

Not sure what you mean exactly by air gap, would making the frame around window 10mm bigger and wedge packers as Robin suggest be sufficient?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi,

what you appear to have got there in the picture is simply a glazed sash - I think it would normally sit inside a separate frame (the sash would either be hinged to the frame or fixed, unopenable, within it).

The reference to draining and venting is to protect the glazed unit itself from being damaged by water - you may find small vent/drainage holes on the bottom edge of the sash in your photo.

The reference to a 10mm gap is between the structural opening (in timber or masonry) and the outside of the frame, which houses one or more sashes.

When you see a 'steamed up' DG window, it's often because the seal between the two panes of glass has failed and water has been drawn up into the gap - this water would have been eliminated or much reduced by proper drainage of the rebate in which the glazed unit sits.

Cheers, W2S

 

[sparkus88]

Thanks, for the replies. I've just measured the depth of the unit I have and realized it is 70mm and the frame is being made of 38x50mm, I'm assume the depth will be 50mm. Either way my window is going too deep. One option is asking them to make the frame around the window with larger wood, the other is maybe getting just the glass without the frame like this and fix it in place with wedges etc and some beading inside and out and sealant.

 

[Wuffles]

Pop the glazed unit(s) out of the uPVC sash and make your own frame to fit the gap, that's all I did with a bunch of mis-measures that were going cheap/free at my local glass supplier. Presumably there's a finish to put on the outside of the workshop too? 38x50mm would be the structural size, there's got to be some kind of cladding to add to that, inside and out.

 

[sparkus88]

Pop the glazed unit(s) out of the uPVC sash and make your own frame to fit the gap, that's all I did with a bunch of mis-measures that were going cheap/free at my local glass supplier. Presumably there's a finish to put on the outside of the workshop too? 38x50mm would be the structural size, there's got to be some kind of cladding to add to that, inside and out.

That sounds like the best option.

Yeah there will be 16mm T&G cladding on the frame which I will apply a finish to not sure which yet.