Does anyone own the Scheppach Precisa 2 Table saw/kity 419?

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kingkiki

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Hi all,

Does anyone own the Scheppach Precisa 2 Table saw or kitty 419?

From my research it seems this is what the scheppach is based on, I’m thinking of upgrading from a dewalt jobsite, but unsure on the belt drive

What the power is in ratio to the job site as some say it’s underpowered

From some of the old kitty threads people talk about the plastic Gear for the rise and fall breaking,


Not sure if it’s worth investing in something that’s only going to be harder to maintain/get spares

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
I used to have the Kity.
I imagine any dewalt site saw these days will be driven by a universal, brush, motor.
Noisy as **** but powerful.
The kity / scheppach are powered by an 1100W induction motor.
Much less powerful, but also long lived, quieter and smoother. Altogether nicer if you can live with the reduced power. It really depends what you want it for. It'll cut 2" hardwood, just use the right blade and go steady.
The kity / scheppach have a cast aluminium top. Nicely flat and rigid this was a selling point because site saws didn't start being made with cast alloy tables until many years after the Kity. Alloy does wear but it had a hard finish, doesn't rust and makes for a lighter machine if you need to move it. As a hobby / DIY tablesaw for someone making smaller furniture they are nice to have. Motors were always decent. The myriad copies supposedly added improvements and often cast iron tables, but I preferred the original.

There's a mitre slot crisply milled in the top but this is narrower than the "standard" popularised on American saws so if you want to use a fancy aftermarket mitre gauge you will need to modify or replace the bar. Kity's own cast aluminium mitre gauge isn't a bad thing at all. Far better than you find on cheap Chinese machines today.

The blade tilt is achieved by pushing in the rise and fall wheel against a spring. This engages a plastic pinion with a set of teeth cut into the steel plate chassis. I didn't find it an issue as I didn't tilt the blade very often. When you do, just keep pressure on the wheel so the teeth are properly engaged and as you know the pinion is plastic, don't force it or wind up and down as if you're having a workout.

Still. parts for old kity machines aren't easy to find. Long out of production and parts stocks long gone. Scheppach changed the design so probably no backward compatibility apart from basics like maybe drive belts.
 
Thank you very much for the information very helpful,

I tend to work with more softwood and sheet goods so the reduction in power might not be so bad.

Thanks for explaining the top surface more as like you say most the site saw aren’t very flat.

How did you find the insert plate? With it being open to the side were you able to make a zero clearance?

That’s good to know with the tilt being careful shouldn’t be an issue.

Regatds
 
Brill thanks for the extra info guys.


If you don’t mind answering, how did you find the insert plate being open to the side? Were you able to to make zero clearance inserts?

Thanks
 
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