Does anyone know where I can get a saw like this?

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Thanks Andy, I'm going to feel suitably stupid for the rest of the day for not having thought about doing that in the first place :) The saw and technique in the original video I posted didn't look like a new thing, just looked logical and very useful, almost like he's not even trying.
 
Not stupid at all - the saw in the video must be a flush saw like a veneer saw. It's a point sometimes skated over but it's essential for well fitting joints to have your cut surfaces all flat. The magnetic jigs and the tenon shoulder jig will help that. Have a look at YouTube for videos by David Barron who uses and sells something similar for dovetails.
 
I got to borrow a japanese flush saw from harbor freight today (my dad bought it about 5 years ago on holiday), it's a very lightweight saw without the back to stiffen it and my technique is a little poor but it's a brilliant little saw, if I'd bothered to mark out the cut it would've been spot on the lines but a freehand 1/2 lap was very easy to do and produced a nice looking pair of cuts with minimal effort.

It didn't feel like I was fighting the blade or that I'd overshoot like my tenon saw. The kerf was very fine and last but not least the finish on the cut was very smooth too. Overall, I really like it, I have nothing else but my 'jcb' tenon saw to compare to so I'm sure that there are other saws that do the job just as well but this one will certainly do for now :)
 
Can I recommend NOT trying to reinvent tenon making techniques from scratch at your current level of knowledge and experience?

Just get a good basic book on handtool techniques (see other thread) and follow it. Techniques that have worked for literally thousands of people for hundreds of years are "quite likely" to work for you too.

Here's a recent book thread

books-on-hand-tool-techniques-t71409.html

BugBear
 
Hi Bugbear, the link doesn't work :( I'm really not trying to reinvent a technique here. I'm just noting the difference in using the 2 saws that I have access to.

The big difference between the 2 is size/weight and control. I don't really have any technique yet, I certainly don't have a choice in saws that allows me to use the right tool for the cut either, if I understand things correctly, teeth are set/cut differently for rip, crosscut etc.?

For example, if I wanted to rip a length of board with a handsaw right now I would have to choose the tenon saw which would be impractical (but not impossible).
 
I know this is a little old now but if you are still looking for a saw what about one of the many oscillating power tools. Not only do they do flush cut blades but they are very safe to use and very easy to be accurate with.
 
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