Do I need to return this Makita SP6000 plunge saw?

[hughcollier]

Thanks everyone for the very helpful responses.

I'm 90% sure I'll be keeping the saw. As mentioned before as soon as I loosened the bevel adjustment screws any warp/twist immediately disappeared. I'm guessing each bevel adjustment (one at the front and one at the back) must have been set slightly differently and it was this variance in tension that was twisting the sole plate.

Anyway, I've made a few test cuts and everything seems totally fine now so I don't think any permanent twist or rock was induced in the base during the time it was twisted. I'll be performing a couple of more test later on today before committing 100% to keeping it.

I must say, it does seem a lovely machine and the convenience factor alone is amazing when compared to my old setup of homemade tracks for my circular saw.

Check it really carefully, again and again and again.
Do not make any allowances.
Use a piece of plate glass and something like dentists contact paper to check.
The warp may have been induced but your adjustment may not have allowed it to be completely eliminated and it may be set permanently now.

How would I go about performing the check using dentist contact paper? Seems like a useful technique to know.

Give Makita a call.
For the trouble I have always found them to be really helpful.

Oh, and if you decide to keep it make sure you register the purchase online with them.

Yes, I will defiantly register for the warranty! I usually forget to do so and I've got lucky so far with nothing breaking down on me.

I have the Makita and I noticed (a little late) that it had what sounds like exactly your issues.
Some tips/points to double check that I came across as a beginner plunge saw user;

• Read the instruction manual. No really…read the instruction manual again!
  There’s some useful information on how to adjust the saw and the configuration of the sole plate which I’d completely overlooked on my initial browse through.
• Check that the plunge spring is clearly held onto the spigot underneath the sole plate. In my case at some point in time the spring had dislodged itself and plastic spigot was protruding through and distorting the centre of the sole plate.
• There are adjustable cam screws on the underside of the base which can correct small amounts of twist in the sole plate by tightening/loosening as appropriate.

However, I would merely familiarise myself with the process and visually inspect the sole plate and spring etc. If there’s clear buckling or twisting then as already mentioned, pass it back to the supplier for an exchange ASAP (as in an ideal world I would have)

Something else to double check (assuming you already have done) but take the saw off the track and place on a flat surface - does it seem stable? If yes then it’s possible the track itself could be twisted slightly or bent in one area from a knock or poor shipping etc.

Richy.

I will definitely have a flick through the manual. I noticed the initial twist/rock before I even got the saw onto a rail (just using a pice of MDF). It now seems totally rock solid on the same sheet of material.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

How would I go about performing the check using dentist contact paper? Seems like a useful technique to know.

Difficult to describe if you can’t imagine the way yourself. If you can’t then a tube of engineers blue would be easier, for that blue the entire plate slide it over a really flat piece of MDF in a surface plate and you will see where there is no contact.
The difficulty with that is getting it clean enough to return.

The contact paper will just mark the spots that touch.

Both methods will work.

 

[hughcollier]

Difficult to describe if you can’t imagine the way yourself. If you can’t then a tube of engineers blue would be easier, for that blue the entire plate slide it over a really flat piece of MDF in a surface plate and you will see where there is no contact.
The difficulty with that is getting it clean enough to return.

The contact paper will just mark the spots that touch.

Both methods will work.

Thanks. Yes, I see what you mean now.

 

[wsurfa]

A bit of a thread resurrection, but after much deliberation of Makita vs Festool I bought a Makita Sp6000, and the base plate is at least 3mm out of true. My bargain basement Evolution is way better in that regard.

Arrgghhh - seems like the QC is much worse than Festool's.

I'm not interested in fixing their f-ups, so have asked how to get a useable saw ASAP.

A little bit of extra annoyance was the retailers email system rejected my email as it had a picture attached.

And breathe