DIY window shutters?

[timberfly]

I have a tall, large window in our kitchen (about 2.2m high, 1.2m wide) and looking for options to replace an old roller blind. I like the look of shutters, but having them made up at that size seems really expensive. I've attached a couple of photos of the style from eBay. They wouldn't need to be "plantation" shutters (with the moveable slats in the middle), as the shutters would only be for privacy at night.

I'm still really new to woodworking, but my starting point would be 6mm MDF as a base (thin enough to reduce weight), with additional 6mm strips on top to make the panel moulding effect. Then filled, primed and painted, hinged together, and attached to the wall on each side. I'd need at least four panels in a concertina arrangement (two on each side) because of the available space horizontally, but I could also split the shutters half-way up (for eight panels total) if the height makes anything more complicated.

That seems quite cheap and easy to try, but I might be missing something obvious. I'm particularly unsure: (1) whether a surrounding frame is also necessary, and (2) whether 12mm of MDF at the edges will just buckle under so much weight.

What do you think? How would you go about it?

 

[HOJ]

I'm still really new to woodworking

Have you the facility to machine solid timber?

I would suggest a solid wood frame with sheet material panels, at 2.2 tall I'd put in wide middle rail as well.

 

[artie]

I made up plantation shutters for the living room a while back.

I discovered when thinking it out, that solid shutters take up a lot of space when open, or when being opened and closed.

If you're going to the trouble of making your own I'd go the extra mile and make the plantation ones which open and close in place.

If you don't count anything on your time, they're not too expensive

 

[Doug71]

Does the window have a wooden lining or a plaster reveal? If it's a wooden lining you can sometimes hang the shutters off this, if it's plaster it's better to have a wooden frame around.

The problem with shutters that are made completely out of MDF is hinging them as the edge of MDF doesn't take screws well, guess you could use some face fix hinges though if you didn't mind the look of them.

 

[Ollie78]

I have made this type of shutters before I think I used Tulipwood and plywood for the panels, we were copying battered original ones.
Normally they are fitted into a reveal "pocket" for the purpose of stowing them away nicely to match the panelling and will be hung onto the box of the sash window or a small additional frame in the corner there.
I would avoid MDF here, solid timber gives rigidity and better fixings, the trick with them is to get the hinges right.

Ollie

 

[timberfly]

The window does have a wooden lining, so potentially an option to screw in there. In the images I posted above, it looks like they've built a full wooden frame which the shutters are then attached to. If I'm using my existing window frame, can I miss that step?

@Ollie78 - did you end up using Tulipwood for the shutter edges and plywood for the panel interiors? I wonder if there's an option to use plywood for both parts - I'm imagining a full plywood backing sheet, then plywood strips to give the impression of proper rebating. Any downsides to that?

In terms of thickness, is 12mm going to work or do I need to go thicker? I assume reducing weight is going to make this significantly easier on the hinges?

 

[Ollie78]

The window does have a wooden lining, so potentially an option to screw in there. In the images I posted above, it looks like they've built a full wooden frame which the shutters are then attached to. If I'm using my existing window frame, can I miss that step?

@Ollie78 - did you end up using Tulipwood for the shutter edges and plywood for the panel interiors? I wonder if there's an option to use plywood for both parts - I'm imagining a full plywood backing sheet, then plywood strips to give the impression of proper rebating. Any downsides to that?

In terms of thickness, is 12mm going to work or do I need to go thicker? I assume reducing weight is going to make this significantly easier on the hinges?

As long as you have something sturdy to fix them on it should be ok.

Basically they are a panelled door construction with solid frames and plywood centres, frames we did were quite thick 19mm 3/4 inch maybe but they were quite large.
The problem with doing everything from ply is that the edges will be difficult to deal with visually and for strength, also remember that the panels are not a tight fit in the frame to allow a bit of movement. The two parts of the shutters overlap at the back edges, you need enough thickness to achieve this without it becoming super flimsy. I think 12mm is too skinny.

 

[Fitzroy]

Sometimes I find it easier to picture things is inches, this is one of those times. 1/2” feels too skinny, 3/4” feels like it’s getting too heavy, 5/8” is probably about right.

In terms of your design of a central panel with placed on strips, I think you would need strips on both sides of the panel else it will be flat one side and look odd! However this could be the answer, with 6mm mdf it’ll give you a 6x3 18mm edge, with 4mm it’ll give you a 16mm edge. At 2.2m high likely the 18mm option would be a surer bet.

If you have the funds I’d buy a sheet of 6mm and build a prototype.

The bit I’m unfamiliar with would be screwing into mdf, especially the edge grain. You tube seems to have a bunch of videos on that subject that would inform.

Fitz

 

[toolsntat]

I had to replace some sliding sash shutters on a very big window (appx 8"x8") and used 6mm mrmdf sandwiched between two 12mm sections of softwood. The whole shutter was very stable.
Perhaps a picture of the opening will garner better information?
Cheers,Andy

 

[HOJ]

I would suggest you consider making a frame for the shutters to fit in/on, to square the hole, I doubt the cheeks/reveals, cill or head will be square to each other.

 

[thetyreman]

I would suggest you consider making a frame for the shutters to fit in/on, to square the hole, I doubt the cheeks/reveals, cill or head will be square to each other.

just curious what size would you make the frame timbers? would using 4 x 2 be way over the top? I notice a lot of modern door frames are very skinny like only 3/4" which doesn't seem strong enough to me. I have been reading doormaking and window making and the author suggests 4 1/2" x 3" would that size be overkill for window shutters? I'm presuming you have rebates as well in them.

 

[BucksDad]

Link to the thread where @artie discussed his build
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/shutters-again.138983/

There was also another post somewhere of someone who made their own shutters, but I can't find it. Hopefully whoever it was notices this thread and links to it

 

[HOJ]

I have been reading doormaking and window making and the author suggests 4 1/2" x 3" would that size be overkill for window shutters?

Blimey that is extreme, I can't find anything in my copy of the book about shutters?

A simple frame of 1 1/4" or even 1 1/2" x 3/4" would do, its only to set the aperture square, if you need to scribe it in, and be able to take the hinges for the shutters.

A lot also depends on the depth of the reveal, and where the shutters will open back to, either inside the reveal and closing on to the cheeks or outside and flat back against the internal wall face, which negates the use of curtains.

 

[Daniel2]

I have a tall, large window in our kitchen (about 2.2m high, 1.2m wide) and looking for options to replace an old roller blind. I like the look of shutters, but having them made up at that size seems really expensive. I've attached a couple of photos of the style from eBay. They wouldn't need to be "plantation" shutters (with the moveable slats in the middle), as the shutters would only be for privacy at night.

I'm still really new to woodworking, but my starting point would be 6mm MDF as a base (thin enough to reduce weight), with additional 6mm strips on top to make the panel moulding effect. Then filled, primed and painted, hinged together, and attached to the wall on each side. I'd need at least four panels in a concertina arrangement (two on each side) because of the available space horizontally, but I could also split the shutters half-way up (for eight panels total) if the height makes anything more complicated.

That seems quite cheap and easy to try, but I might be missing something obvious. I'm particularly unsure: (1) whether a surrounding frame is also necessary, and (2) whether 12mm of MDF at the edges will just buckle under so much weight.

What do you think? How would you go about it?

I'm desperately resisting facetious comments to that bit, apart from saying that what I
get up to in the evenings, I like displaying to the wurld that's passing by...

 

[MikeJhn]

When screwing into MDF, drill a pilot hole and make a thread with the desired screw, within reason the longer the better, remove the screw and drip in thin CYA until the hole will not take anymore, this will harden a large area of the MDF and will take a considerable weight, my wardrobe doors are still OK ten years later.

 

[thetyreman]

Blimey that is extreme, I can't find anything in my copy of the book about shutters?

A simple frame of 1 1/4" or even 1 1/2" x 3/4" would do, its only to set the aperture square, if you need to scribe it in, and be able to take the hinges for the shutters.

A lot also depends on the depth of the reveal, and where the shutters will open back to, either inside the reveal and closing on to the cheeks or outside and flat back against the internal wall face, which negates the use of curtains.

thanks, if anyone knows of any old books with shutter plans in them let me know, I'm curious to know dimensions, and how they were made, especially georgian or victorian era, that's the style I like.

 

[trvlr]

When screwing into MDF, drill a pilot hole and make a thread with the desired screw, within reason the longer the better, remove the screw and drip in thin CYA until the hole will not take anymore, this will harden a large area of the MDF and will take a considerable weight, my wardrobe doors are still OK ten years later.

what is this CYA "Stuff"?

 

[MikeJhn]

"Cyanoacrylate" glue, commonly called "Super Glue", if you have never used it before, be careful it will stick your fingers together and burn your eye's if you splash it about, do not breath in the fumes, and keep away from plastics, unless formulated for them, on clear plastic finger prints will be exposed by the fumes, it comes in various consistencies and setting times, best bet is a model aircraft shop, who will know exactly what you need.

 

[HOJ]

@thetyreman Had a quick look through some of my books, found these for starters from a book dating to 1905 by J.W Riley, called A manual of Carpentry and Joinery, you can get it as an online PDF scan:



Not a great amount of detail, but does show the closing methods.