diy dust hood sedgwick pt260

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

johnnyb

Established Member
Joined
13 Nov 2006
Messages
3,735
Reaction score
1,187
Location
Biddulph staffs
has anyone made a dust hood for a pt260 planer? mine doesnt have one and a new one is £170!! and has a 5 inch pipe instead of the usual 100mm. i am sure this will have been done before and to save me reinventing the wheel could anyone post a picture or drawing pls. failing that just the best place/design for the 100mm pipe would be very helpful
thanks in advance
i have recently started using this machine and despite being old it is absolutely superb and very powerful. i was planing oak boards nominal 1 inch, i should have measured. set the thicknesser at 25mm expecting a really light cut........ it turned out the board was 30mm!!! huge chips flying out of machine bouncing off the back wall... but it coped admirably.
 
I had to make one of these for mine a couple of weeks ago. I bought one on ebay and it had no hood. I made mine in a tank shape with a baffle in it.
Sides 15mm ply and top 19mm ply. I then used a hole drill to take out a 102mm hole. I then friction fitted a 100mm dust extraction hose fitting and have been running it hard today. I am sizing 20 cuft of rough sawn sycamore and it has been a good exercise in workshop efficiency.
My observations are.
1. The angle of the back wall of the tank is important as to steep and you cannot get the hood under the bed to collect all chips when planing.
2. Too shallow and the chips are not collected.
3. When thicknessing you need some kind of draft excluder strip to help with getting all the chips.
My sedgewick will not plane 5mm of sycamore in one. Instead it blows its fuse.
Don't know about yours but my depth gauge is not accurate as i would like but it works upside doen so you can't really fit a wixey gauge to it.
 
i cant picture the baffle on yours but i understand the tank shape, am thinking a shape like a box with angled corners. the draught excluder sounds like a great idea. where did you source your pipe from? when i took 5mm off the feed rollers did not properly engage and it had to be semi pushed through, mine has been converted from three phase to single so it has a large (and very noisy)motor. is it possible to adjust the rollers up and down on the planer bed(not the feed rollers)? as 1 of mine is a bit lower than id like. i know some of the later ones dont have rollers btw. my thicknessing gauge seems pretty accurate and fully adjustable if it wasnt! i am not familiar with the wixey am assuming it is a digital scale.
 
Yup just like a box angled sides.
I have been fiddling with my rollers today, It seems that my springs are a little weak as when a thick timber went through it bouced the blades into the out feed table chewing up the out feed table which was not very nice. It seems you can crank the springs to give better clamping which i have done. The previous owner had "adjusted" his to a 13amp plug socket which was blowing every 30second so I have had to convert mine to a 16a socket.
Will have to sort some new blades tommorrow.
Its been a less than fun day today.
Owen
 
mine also has some marks on the outfeed table from the cutterblock. i cant think how the springs on the feed roller would bounce the cutter block though as i think its soliddly attached to the tunnel housing. it may be that the cutter block bearings have sustained some wear and need replacing. this would only happen during heavier cuts i suspect. the way to check would be to lever against the block from the planer bed and feel for a bit of slack this is definitely something i will try on mine when it is installed full time in my shop(at the moment it is at my mother in laws). mine has not blown yet and it is on a 13 amp plug but must be at its limit. try using a type b(i think) breaker which is more suited to motor use. it is unfortunate that with older machines esp of an industrial nature they can require some basic work to work properly. mine also needed the tables shimming to bring them level and true. a tediouus but fairly straightforward job. hope all becomes clear and its an easy fix though!
jb
 
Looked at this more closely and two of the blades gib screws are loose. I think operator error is the likely cause :oops: . I really would like some self sligning blades or tersa, I do find the changing a reall faff.
I have tighten the rollers and they seem alot better you just crank the nuts retaining the springs a few turns.
Owen
 

Latest posts

Back
Top