Disston saw restoration

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condeesteso

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I got this cheap a few months ago, and whilst in overall good condition, the teeth clearly needed re-profiling and a good sharpen.
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I did a light clean and re-finish to handle, cleaned up the screws - but then almost by accident discovered that Richard T is a bit of a dab hand in the sharpening department:
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Not sure it shows up well but the teeth are now very well set, very sharp, all nice and true to each other...
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This Disston is now really well sorted and works a treat. So far just done some test cuts but will be working it harder very soon, on some large oak sections.
I think Richard is happy to take on the lower tpi saws, and what he did for mine was an absolute bargain... brilliant work Richard =D> (up there with the holdfasts indeed).
 

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Nice job, also nice to know we have another skilled saw smith (correct term? maybe not but it sounds good :D ) in the forum.

I've been after one of the 28" rips with thumb hole handles for a while, dont specificly need one but hey why not :lol:
 
Well, Douglas has posted the "after" pictures. I don't have any "before" pictures but I do have a "during". I thought I'd better keep a record to remind me how of much can need to be taken off in one place in order to be level all the way along with the bare minimum taken off elsewhere.

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One of those periods of nil desperandum...
 
wow Richard, makes me realise just how far off it was. Seeing this reminds me not to attempt to sharpen saws. You certainly brought it back though.
 
(sorry, twice this time #-o )wow Richard, makes me realise just how far off it was. Seeing this reminds me not to attempt to sharpen saws. You certainly brought it back though.
 
They are all too often like that though Douglas. People have a go at sharpening without levelling first and the inevitable is that the most worn teeth get done and the least used get left. Hence the sag in the middle. That photo was quite close to the front where not only do the teeth tend to stay sharper than in the middle, but I guess people get fed up with it by then.
Level first folks, that's the trick.
 
richard,

what is the finest tpi that you can set and sharpen? I have a 4tpi and a 6tpi if you fancy doing them? I also need a pair of holdfasts, so could get them sent back at the same time. If you are a glutton for punishment, I have a dovetail saw that I want recutting to 14tpi rip teeth- lord only knows what it is at the moment, but it is blunt as can be!

Mark
 
I had a search about to see what other people charge for hand sharpening - I can't find anyone in the UK. Seems to be all machined. In fact the only hand sharpened service I can find at all is from Famous Matt of the Famous Saw Blog; and his prices are as follows:

"Basic saw sharpening: $35
This includes jointing, filing, setting and final sharpening

Re-toothing: add $45
This is done entirely by hand and is an additional charge to the $35 noted above

Straightening saw plate: $25
This includes removing kinks and bends by smithing with a saw hammer"

(I was SURE I read somewhere someone quoting £22 ... can't think where though - maybe I dreamt it.)

I haven't looked up the latest exchange rate, but this feels about right. Quite time consuming equals quite expensive. Add to this the two way postage trip and (for bootsalers and EBayers) it probably far exceeds the cost of the saw.
However, if anyone is still interested, I reckon I would be comfortable at 8tpi tops - I have sharpened my own back saws but I don't feel I've had enough practice to inflict it on anyone else's yet.
I could also re cut to rip on likely candidates ... haven't seen that offered anywhere .... might be popular?

Anyway, pm me if interested. Both the above sound do able. And Mark, I can sort you holdfasts straight away if you'd like - I have a dwindling new batch.
 
It's easy enough with a bit of practice to sharpen western style saws and the bigger the teeth, the easier it becomes. I used to sharpen my old LN back saw and dovetail saw without too much bother...the real difficulty is in setting the teeth on smaller saws as there's no commercially available set that will do the job. The other issue is that smaller toothed saws become increasingly difficult to sharpen as it gets harder to see what's going on - Rob
 
Richard T":cku587ri said:
Quite time consuming equals quite expensive. Add to this the two way postage trip and (for bootsalers and EBayers) it probably far exceeds the cost of the saw.

Yeah - hard points make economic sense. To use the older style of saw, you either need to be wealthy, or learn to sharpen yourself, and have the time to do so.

BugBear (in the latter group)
 
Yes time is certainly money Richard, unfortunately most people have no idea of the amount of work involved. Why do they think hardpoint saws have taken over.
Would you have a pair of holdfasts available and how much are they?
 
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