Dining table W.I.P

[woodbloke]

so on some jobs it gets taken off .

I won't state the obvious, just that I hope you know the shortest route to your local hospital 8-[ - Rob

 

[OPJ]

If you will insist on removing the guard to plane your edges then, I'd recommend you at least bring the fence up much closer to the front of the machine, so that a minimum amount of the cutter block is exposed (just enough to cut the thickness of your timber). :? Or, leave the fence in its current position, fit the guard and butt it up to the timber (still leaving a gap just enough to pass the wood through, but at least you are protected from the 'unused' portion of the cutter block).

Mike Garnham used to run his planer without a guard, because it didn't come with one when he bought it (old, second-hand). One day, the inevitable happened and he had to get a guard made up!

Nice machine, though. Looks like you could do a bit of rebating on that, if you had all the appropriate guarding...! :shock: :wink:

 

[Ironballs]

Sensible advice and good best practice whether you have a guard or not

 

[Chris_belgium]

so on some jobs it gets taken off .

I won't state the obvious, just that I hope you know the shortest route to your local hospital 8-[ - Rob

Looks like a Belgian planer , rarely see them guarded over here, I do hope your using paddles/pushsticks tough.

I noticed you have the vice grip like thingie from Kreg to keep the pieces aligned when driving the screw in, do they keep the work perfectly aligned or is there still some movement when you drive the screw in?

 

[BTR]

Thanks for the advice lads i try my best to use the guard were ever possible and i also use paddels when running the work over the blades but safety first.
Yes Chris the kreg vice grips are really good the right angle one holds the workpiece at 90' can be used on its own and holds the workpiece tight and the other pocket hole grip fits into the drilled pocket hole definatly no movement then :wink: .

 

[miles_hot]

Nice machine, though. Looks like you could do a bit of rebating on that, if you had all the appropriate guarding...! :shock: :wink:

How would you do that rebating and what on the machine makes that possible?

Thanks

Miles

 

[Chems]

Bring the fence forward to your rebate depth, wind down the infeed table and run part of the work over the cutter head the other part been supported by the bit of table on the infeed that comes around the cutter head and then the rebated piece been supported by the outfeed table.

 

[OPJ]

How would you do that rebating and what on the machine makes that possible?

Hi Miles,

Have a look at page three of this document from the HSE website. Note the wooden 'shaw' or 'tunnel' guards, which keep the timber held firmly against the bed and fence (to prevent kickback) and also, by creating a tunnel, you fingers should not come anywhere near the cutter block.

Looking at the Axminster machine in the photo posted earlier, there doesn't appear to be a means for fitting this kind of guarding though, there is an 'extension' piece on the outfeed table, which is essential for supporting the rebate as it's cut... Bit odd to see it on this modern machine.

When it's set up correctly, it can work well. Even then, it can be a bit scary. :? Personally, I wouldn't consider it if you have a router or, even better, a router table. You'll always be limited by the maximum depth of cut on your machine (often 3-5mm, on modern planers). It's only on the old cast iron planers where you be able to cut 15mm deep rebates, for example! :shock:

I won't mention anything about cutting tenons or raised panels...!! :wink:

On the same site, I noticed this guy had a lucky escape! :?

 

[BTR]

Today put in a hour in the evening thought i would finish off the legs ready for sanding.
So i got out the new hand plane which i bought from Axminster last week not a bad plane it is called a Groz and cleaned up the slight overhang and glue on a couple off the legs.

This is what they look like from the top 4.8" x 3.7" rectangular legs

 

[BTR]

Been busy the past few days at work but finally got around to getting the table assembled and ready for the final finish.
The Metabo is a great orbital sander using a 120 grit got the top all nice and flat any little imperfections were all removed i will finish off with a 240.
I want to finish the table in a clear lacker to maintain the colour or very slightly darken the oak so what kind off finish would you recommend.
I made a nest off tables a while back it was my first table making project in oak again i used the ronseal hardglaze satin floor varnish thinned down to 70/30 with thinners and sprayed them i sprayed three coats lightly sanded in between with 400 and got a beautiful deep finish.

 

[ByronBlack]

Rustins plastic coating would be a nice and easy finish for this piece, it keeps the original colour, and can be buffed to a satin or gloss finish. Axminster sells it. It can be brushed or sprayed, and is very easy to use.

I take it you'll be getting rid of those orange splodges on the top?

 

[BTR]

Thanks B.B i was looking at that when i was in axminster last week will check it out and the orange splodges just a bit off filler to cover a small mishap had the table on its top fixing the rails etc and did not see a small nail in the work top and you know what happened next glad it was only a little scratch but all sorted :wink:

 

[OPJ]

Looking good. I like the overall 'chunkiness' of the piece.

Melamine lacquer would also leave a good finish and it probably will darken or 'yellow' the oak, slightly (not as much as an oil finish). Obviously, the fumes are far more harmful than a water-based product but, as good as Chestnut's water-based lacquer seems to be, I'm not sure if it should be used on oak, or else it may react with the tannin in the wood? It doesn't seem to darken the timber much, though.

 

[BTR]

Finally all preped and sprayed i ended up using the Ronseal hardglaze varnish thinned down and sprayed using my hvlp spray gun 3 coats i gave it and the finish come out better than i expected first time i have sprayed a large table :lol:.

A closer shot of the top

Finally at home in the dining room next project is to refurb some oak chairs to go with the table

 

[Chems]

That looks really good. I like the legs too as I need to do some really thick legs and this method, but with dominos rather than pocket screws was the main fore runner. And the finished item looks spot on here.

 

[Streepips]

Looks well, nice clean lines and should last you out!

Mine looked exactly the same as yours in the middle set of pics, with the differing clouring as I mentioned before. I considered that same finish that you have used but decided against it, I thought it a little harsh for such a mellow wood as oak.

I ended up with a patent finish using a mix, about a dozen coats, worked on with a cloth with the first coats heavily thinned and gradually working up the bulk to the final coats.
The mix consisted of naptha medium oak stain, ( to average out the pink cream and brown of the boards) used very sparingly , and equal proportions of white spirit, Danish oil and a Sikkens interior varnish. as the coats progressed the white spirit content reduced to none at all in the penultimate coat and the final coat was another heavily thinned one that acted as a flatting agent.
I let each coat dry hard and then flatted with 600 grit wet& dry. initially dry but as the finish progressed and the surface became fully covered ( obviously the first thin coats left it patchy) I used soapy water with the 600 grit,

The finish is tough and flexible, fairly straightforward to touch up if ever needed and most important to me I like the look of it.
Its a bit of a slog but in my opinion its a finish thats worth the effort.

I have a pic, just can`t remember how to upload. Is it a lift from photobucket?

 

[BTR]

Yes streetpips i uploaded the photos from photobucket would be nice to see a pic off your table thanks.
Chems i think the method off using dominos and glueing will achieve the same results nice and strong joints but will be quicker i am seriousally thinking in getting a domino axminster have a festool demo day coming up i will be going to see what it has to offer and will then decide :lol:

 

[Chems]

Well if you ever happen to pass my way your welcome to a demo. Its a great machine, you need to use it just once to see its worth.

 

[OPJ]

Shame about some of the sap (lighter wood?) on the hollow legs but, it looks as though you know how to apply a varnish! :wink:

Best of luck with the chairs. Have you sorted a design for them yet?

 

[Streepips]

The table in situ, the chairs are oak too but no longer with this table.