Dining Table Finish?

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stuartpaul

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I'll be hand finishing a dining table in the not too distant future (he says with fingers crossed!).

Obviously looking for a durable finish and research has lead me to a couple of coats of a shellac sealer followed by wipe on melamine.

Anyone know if this is the best option?
 
I can't see a good reason for applying sealing coats of shellac, unless you are aware of some sort of problem that might affect adhesion of the melamine finish, e.g., a naturally oily wood, contaminants such as grease or silicone. Unless you are aware of such problems I would follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of your wipe on melamine finish. What brand of finish is it, and what do they suggest? Slainte.
 
Thanks Richard, - I haven't actually purchased the finish yet preferring instead to research before buying! Probably going to be chestnut acrylic or melamine lacquer.

The top is oak with wenge inlay so nothing that should be too difficult to finish. Just looking for a bit of extra durability!
 
Looking at the products, Chestnut's melamine lacquer looks like it can be used as its own base coat, although they say it will also go over a base of cellulose lacquer. Whilst the technical information says it can be applied by brush, cloth, roller or spray I strongly suspect the first three options only really apply to small items because the stuff is reckoned to be touch dry in five minutes. That would lead me to suspect the best application method for a large surface, such as a table top, would be a spray gun.

The acrylic lacquer has a longer touch dry time, about twenty minutes, so I suspect you might be able to apply it satisfactorily with a roller or foam brush. Again, this product can be used as its own sealer, although you can use acrylic sanding sealer or cellulose sanding sealer to help build up an initial coat thickness.

Neither of these products suggest using shellac as a sealer or base coat, and I wouldn't use it either, unless, as I said before, you are aware of specific potential adhesion problems such as contaminants. Even if I was aware of such problems and I chose to use a shellac as a barrier coat because of its well known qualities for both adhesion and to use as a universal base coat under other film forming finishes, I would only ever use dewaxed shellac for this purpose. The reason being that dewaxed shellac is the only form of shellac over which just about any other film forming polish type will adhere to satisfactorily. Water based finishes are sensitive to shellac with wax in it.

On the whole, even though shellac has a great reputation as a universal sealer and base coat, I don't recommend using it unless there are specific problems that might cause the first coat of other finishes to fail. Generally, it's best to stick to the finishing procedures recommended by the manufacturer of a particular product, unless you really know what you're doing. Slainte.
 
Thanks again Richard.

Advice I'll certainly bear in mind. I was leaning towards the acrylic lacquer for the very reason you've identified (longer open time).
 
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