difficultu in getting square edge with Tormek

[DuncanvdH]

I recently bought a Tormek 2006 ( and a grading stone ), but I have some difficulty grinding a primary bevel square to the sides of chisels. I check the chisel rests to the two side of the jig, and the clamp is parallel to the jig.
Wider chisels and planeblades deviate less from square than the narrower ones.
Problem is also I now have to remove the chisel from the jig to check the squareness.
Obviously I am doing something wrong. Could you please help me and provide some pointers?

Sincerely,

Duncan

 

[woodbloke]

Duncan - using the Tormek to grind accurately is a bit of an art form' It helps hugely if you buy a very small square (50mm blade) to check the chisel or plane blade is square in the jig, much handier than a large one. The little square is also used to check the blade for squareness whilst it's still in the jig so need to take it out each time. In use, you need to apply pressure with the forefingers on the front of the blade but the little fingers can be used to wrap around the jig and 'lift' it to one side or another on the bar as the tool is moved across the stone. I made the mistake of thinking that everything would be square until I realised that minute deviations in grinding accuracy can be achieved with subtle pressure of the fingers in different parts of the jig - Rob

 

[Charley]

Duncan - using the Tormek to grind accurately is a bit of an art form' It helps hugely if you buy a very small square (50mm blade) to check the chisel or plane blade is square in the jig, much handier than a large one. The little square is also used to check the blade for squareness whilst it's still in the jig so need to take it out each time. In use, you need to apply pressure with the forefingers on the front of the blade but the little fingers can be used to wrap around the jig and 'lift' it to one side or another on the bar as the tool is moved across the stone. I made the mistake of thinking that everything would be square until I realised that minute deviations in grinding accuracy can be achieved with subtle pressure of the fingers in different parts of the jig - Rob

Just to add to Rob's advice; when you tighten the knobs on the jig, make sure it's applying even pressure on the chisel as this has an effect too. There's a simple guide here which may be of some use...

 

[Harbo]

I will second all that has been said before.

A couple other things I do is to mark a line across the chisel end at right angles to the sides using a set square and fine waterproof marker pen. You can then check if the grind is going astray.
Also I made a guide using the scale supplied for setting the out-reach with a series of right angles marked on it. Then with the chisel at the correct out-reach it is easy to line up the chisel side(s) with the line(s).
But with all this you must keep checking!

Hope this helps?

Rod

 

[engineer one]

personally i found that buying the latest stone dresser, the tt10 which is screw fed across the wheel has improved the accuracy of square facing the bevels etc.

mind you a lot depends upon the depth of the chisels and the angle of their sides.

paul :wink:

 

[Keith Smith]

I find the easiest method is to fit the chisel in the jig making sure it is as flat and square as possible. Then fit the jig in the Tormek and let the edge just touch the stone for a second. Remove the jig and, looking at the edge, tighten the thumbscrew slightly on the side where the cut is being favoured. Try again in the Tormek and it should be a lot better.

Keep doing this until it is square. Once you get used to it you should be able to square it with one adjustment.

Keith

 

[DuncanvdH]

Many thanks for all this good advice. I think I had the wrong impression the Tormek was fully idiot proof. Apparently it is not and some skills are required indeed.

Sincerely,

Duncan

 

[engineer one]

don't worry, like all idiot proof items it only becomes so when you have studied it :lol:

before the new diamond truing jig was released, i found it difficult to ensure that the wheel is flat across and perpendicular to the axle, and thus the grinding stand.

i know that others have found difficulties with the tt10, i have found it a boon and it has made my use of the tormek even easier, better and more accurate. (well i think so anyway :roll: )

when geoff brown demonstrates in the uk he often covers the surface to be sharpened with blue marker pen, and then by hand rotates the wheel against the blade to see that it touches and marks in the right place.
you might find that a sensible thing to do as you are learning.

good luck

paul :wink:

 

[Martin Brown]

Not sure if I can add much here! Thanks everyone for doing my job. Just shows the support of a group.

Everyone on the demo team at BriMarc can help. If you are near a show we are supporting then let me know and we can sort some time for more detail.

If you have anymore questions please do PM or e mail me.

Martin

 

[engineer one]

thanks for coming in martin, but unfortunately i think like everything it is actually down to practice, but at least we can all guide people here.

personal experience was that looking at the demo helped give me the idea, but actually doing it was what made the difference. :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[engineer one]

must do a bit of personal editing,i am of course talking about the TT50
new item,not 10. :?

paul :wink: