Diamond stones - advice required

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Only problem is that they charge £6 postage.

The other complete bu**er is that I called in there Last weekend on the way back from a wedding in North Wales and didn't see the stone. I probably would have bought it for the sake of £4 even before reading this thread.

Aled
 
I have the Trend dual sided diamond stone, and find that the fine side doesn't leave a polished finish. I have been scratching my head about how to get a finer finish without faffing about with water stones or diamond paste, and the I saw these in the Axminster catalogue

http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/13/product-Spyderco-Ceramic-Bench-Stone-20440.htm

The super fine one is supposed to be equivalent to 10,000 grit.

Would this do the trick, or is the jump from 1200 to 10,000 grit too big to do in one step?

Anyone else got one of these? Any comments / feedback much appreciated.

Thanks

Gary
 
I have two ( medium and fine ) and I would go for the fine, as it is a little ruff at first ( not by much ) but it will soon lose that and you will have a nice stone :)
Ps I would give Tilgear a ring as I think you will get them for a better price there
 
Taffy Turner":10cjj4vf said:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/13/product-Spyderco-Ceramic-Bench-Stone-20440.htm

The super fine one is supposed to be equivalent to 10,000 grit.

Would this do the trick, or is the jump from 1200 to 10,000 grit too big to do in one step?

Anyone else got one of these? Any comments / feedback much appreciated.

Thanks
Gary
I have one of the spyderco ultra or super fine stones. Its a really tough stone, however mine is not flat. I have tried to flatten, but even the diamond stone didn't do much. In fact I got the feeling its one of the things that lead to the early demise of my diamond stone.

The jump in grits is not too far but be prepared to spend longer at it.
 
Taffy Turner":2sf1jb02 said:
I have been scratching my head about how to get a finer finish without faffing about with water stones or diamond paste ... <snip>

My current waterstone avoidance method is to go from a 1200 grit DMT duosharp to a 5 micron microfinishing film (I got from here). I then more often than not use some 0.5 micron film after that. All I do is cut out a strip of the film (which is much tougher than wet and dry paper), and lay it on the diamond stones - with adhesion given by whatever lubricant I happen to be using:

_MG_5545.jpg


I have tried pretty much everything recently and this gives my an incredible edge very easily and very quickly.

Cheers

Gidon
 
The Spyderco stones are not good - have a search of the archive and you should find something on them.

Gidon, I love the little cams for holding your DMTs. :D

Cheers, Alf
 
My current waterstone avoidance method is to go from a 1200 grit DMT duosharp to a 5 micron microfinishing film (I got from here)

Gidon - try your local car repair/finishing people - I get the 3M 5 micron from mine whenever I need it - it appears to be a stock item for fine work..
 
Message received and understood on the Spyderco stones.

Thanks everyone for the advice - saved me £50 there.

I shall have to look into the scary sharp method in a bit more detail, as it would appear that is the way to go.

Regards

Gary
 
Not sure if that was meant for me me Ivan - but CSM don't do the film at all, PSA or not. They do do paper backed micron paper but I didn't find that much good compared to the film. And not much cheaper IIRC - even factoring in shipping from the US!
Cheers
Gidon
 
Paul Chapman":2b7urwf3 said:
I use the DMT 8 inch polka dot stones in course, fine and extra fine. The extra fine won't give you a mirror finish which is why I am now experimenting with a leather strop and polishing compound to finish off.

Just thought I would report back on my use of a leather strop and finishing compound.

I bought a piece of leather and some finishing compound (the blue one) from Clico at one of the recent shows. I glued together two pieces of 18mm MDF to provide a nice flat surface and glued the leather to this.

I now go from the extra fine (green) diamond stone to the leather strop and I have been amazed at how quickly that produces a mirror finish on my blades. It might be possible to get an even better finish with a finer polishing compound. Rob (woodbloke) said he uses jewellers rouge which might be better. However, I am more than pleased with the results I am now achieving :D

Paul
 
As a new member of this forum, allow me to suggest an alternative view point regarding diamond honing stones. I have all of the grades of DMT diamond stones. My experience with them for purposes of honing fine woodworking tools has been less than satisfactory.

First, I feel that diamond stones are too limited in their ability to provide a keen edge to justify their high cost. Diamond stones deliver a very unrefined edge even in the finest grit. Rough honing does not require an expensive stone. Hand woodworking tools will require a keener edge (up to 8000 grit) than diamond plates or stones (approx 1000 grit ) can deliver. I recommend graduated grades of sandpaper on a flat backing such as glass, granite or even MDF, or a set of waterstones.

Secondly, diamond stones quickly wear to much less aggressive cutting ability. If you use them to flatten other stones, they can literally be worn beyond usefulness. Water stones continuously expose new cutting particles and maintain their same cutting effectiveness clear to the end. Sandpaper is easily and cheaply replaced.

Third, diamond stones are notoriously un-flat and semi-flexible. Flatness is essential in honing of woodworking edges. Waterstone's flatness needs to be maintained, but at least can be brought to a state of flatness. Flatness in sandpaper sharpening is as good as the substrate to which it is attached; in other words, constant.

For the above reasons, I would avoid the purchase of diamond stones as the primary method of maintaining woodworking hand tool cutting edges.
 
Welcome to the forum Handrubbed
I agree with most of what you have said, diamond stones can be very expensive. This is one of the reasons that I will not but DMT ones, I get the eze-lap stones insted ( I still have my firsts one, bought about 7-8 years ago )

When it come to eze-lap stones there are on a 1/4 think steel plate so no flexible, with this I have a medium ceramic stone and some leather with the car polish.
This way I get a very good edge on all my tools as I also use a jig on all of the sharpening surfaces until sharp.

Where I get my stones is about 1/3 less than every where else and about half the price of the DMT's :)
My medium 6"x2" stone cost me £22 :)
 
Colin C":wros5npv said:
Where I get my stones is about 1/3 less than every where else and about half the price of the DMT's :)
My medium 6"x2" stone cost me £22 :)

Come on Colin, don't be a tease, share the information.
 

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