Diamond Stone
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Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I believe the advice varies from make to make, I've always used mine dry. Diamond butchers steels for instance wouldn't be used wet.
i use my dmts wet, as per the manufacturers instructions. A little light oil if it is to hand, although they recommend just water. More often than not, a bit of spit. It just seems to make the job easier.
There is some discussion on that point, and it is the main argument for using oil over water. I wipe the stone and chisel/plane blade afterwards, and haven't had a problem.
My thoughts for using a lubricant is that it should carry away metal particles. Whether it is necessary, I dont know, but I have always done so since getting them. If I was going to have a session at sharpening, I would probably go for oil, but the odd couple of minutes as required, spit or a splash of water suffices.
My thoughts for using a lubricant is that it should carry away metal particles. Whether it is necessary, I dont know, but I have always done so since getting them. If I was going to have a session at sharpening, I would probably go for oil, but the odd couple of minutes as required, spit or a splash of water suffices.
mtr1
Established Member
I have left my dmt with water on for a few days, it goes rusty. But is cleaned off easily enough next time you use it, don't know if you left it on for ages it would do too much harm tbh. I use mine throughout the day several times, it's only when I don't use it over a weekend that it gets rusty. I have been using it for fifteen years like this, seems okay.
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dm65
Established Member
Am I misreading this ?mtr1":1x5zoa7a said:
You've used the same stone, several times a day, 5 days a week for 15 years ??? (I appreciate it will be more of a touch up than a full sharpen)
Jason
Established Member
Diamonds are pretty tough fellas. Even the little ones.
ok here goes
i used water
first time i ever sharpened a chisel...only been doing diy \ hacking at wood for 20 yrs
went 400, 1000, 1200....was the finest i have
few questions if u can see the pic
the first bevel...original
second bevel 25%
then micro bevel
how far back should my 25% go.....should i go back to original bevel distance ?
the chisel is about 10mm wide in new money
i know its not perfectly square... i guess that comes with practise
i wish i had bought a guide now to get it straight
Steve
i used water
first time i ever sharpened a chisel...only been doing diy \ hacking at wood for 20 yrs
went 400, 1000, 1200....was the finest i have
few questions if u can see the pic
the first bevel...original
second bevel 25%
then micro bevel
how far back should my 25% go.....should i go back to original bevel distance ?
the chisel is about 10mm wide in new money
i know its not perfectly square... i guess that comes with practise
i wish i had bought a guide now to get it straight
Steve
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Jason
Established Member
Not quite straight won't affect the use of the thing.
Generally speaking you only want two bevels. The micro/secondary bevel (30 degrees or so) is the critical bit that cuts wood. You want it as narrow a sliver of a bevel as possible. It'll grow over time, but the larger it gets, the longer it'll take to hone.
And you've also got the primary bevel (5 degrees or so less than the micro bevel) before that. At some point the micro bevel will grow so much that honing will get laborious or the angles will go wayard and you'll want to erase the old microbevel with a fresh primary bevel and start a new micro bevel. if your primary bevel doesn't quite go smartly all the way to the to top and you've got 3 bevels don't lose sleep. It only exists to keep out of the way of the micro bevel. If it does that you're fine.
Generally speaking you only want two bevels. The micro/secondary bevel (30 degrees or so) is the critical bit that cuts wood. You want it as narrow a sliver of a bevel as possible. It'll grow over time, but the larger it gets, the longer it'll take to hone.
And you've also got the primary bevel (5 degrees or so less than the micro bevel) before that. At some point the micro bevel will grow so much that honing will get laborious or the angles will go wayard and you'll want to erase the old microbevel with a fresh primary bevel and start a new micro bevel. if your primary bevel doesn't quite go smartly all the way to the to top and you've got 3 bevels don't lose sleep. It only exists to keep out of the way of the micro bevel. If it does that you're fine.
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~I have left my dmt with water on for a few days, it goes rusty.~
I suspect that the rust is uncleared swarf.
I suspect that the rust is uncleared swarf.
Jason
Established Member
What angle is it now? That's the angle you want. Add a micro bevel and off you go.
I've got two lots of chisels. One where the primary bevel is 30 degrees (35 degree micro bevel) which gives me a stronger edge that can stand chopping and a bit of morticing and also do some pairing. The another chisels have a 25 degree primary bevel, which is maybe a bit keener pairing end grain.
Both are good. You can allow yourself a bit of give and take either way.
Yes, you do want the micro bevel. It's quicker to sharpen a tiny sliver of a bevel than the entire face.
the primary is 26%.....it is my first go at it
it is razor sharp
i have about 10 abused chisels in my box
so will do one a night...hopefully getting better with practice
how fine grit i need to go ?
it is razor sharp
i have about 10 abused chisels in my box
so will do one a night...hopefully getting better with practice
how fine grit i need to go ?
mtr1
Established Member
Limey Lurker":1ikiko5l said:
Most probably, yes, but whatever it is doesn't effect it over time I think it could be nearer twenty years tbh.
dm65":1ikiko5l said:
As above its nearer twenty years. I have oil stones that have been used for far longer than my working life of 25 years also. I think diamond stones would be a waste of money if they didn't have a lifetimes use, wouldn't they? I can't see me wearing this one out either, I'm curious how long you think a stone should last? I still have my India stone I got when I was an apprentice too, and that will outlast me.
I believe I bought the dmt, for site use, thinking it would be tougher. I now use the dmt in the workshop and the oilstone for site. Well that's not strictly true as I have a few oil stones in the workshop also.
Jason
Established Member
26 is great.
What grit did you use to get it razor sharp? That sounds like a good grit to aim for.
Usually you'll want to use as go to as fine a grit as you've got. A 1200 grit diamond stone will be fine for most occaisions. Obviously finer grits exist.
More seriously, being razor sharp isn't the only quality you're looking for (though it's a good one to get). You also want the edge to be robust enough to put up with doing some work. Sharpening is kind of a balancing act between those two goals.
Getting that cutting angle that's about 30 degrees give or take is part of that balancing act. As is refining the edge with ever finer stones. A coarse cutting edge (one that would look rough and broken under a microscope, rather than just rounded and dull) from a lower grit stone can be very sharp, but the edge will dull quite quickly.
10 chisels is quite a lot. If sharpening them all up is turning into a big job, sharpen the ones you need first.
What grit did you use to get it razor sharp? That sounds like a good grit to aim for.
Usually you'll want to use as go to as fine a grit as you've got. A 1200 grit diamond stone will be fine for most occaisions. Obviously finer grits exist.
More seriously, being razor sharp isn't the only quality you're looking for (though it's a good one to get). You also want the edge to be robust enough to put up with doing some work. Sharpening is kind of a balancing act between those two goals.
Getting that cutting angle that's about 30 degrees give or take is part of that balancing act. As is refining the edge with ever finer stones. A coarse cutting edge (one that would look rough and broken under a microscope, rather than just rounded and dull) from a lower grit stone can be very sharp, but the edge will dull quite quickly.
10 chisels is quite a lot. If sharpening them all up is turning into a big job, sharpen the ones you need first.
dm65
Established Member
tbh, I don't have enough experience to answer, but I have recently made a right dogs borrox of my oilstone (admittedly a cheap one from one of the tool sheds) and also put a significant hollow in my course waterstone (one of those plastic triangular jobbies with a different grit on each face like this)
I appreciate these aren't high quality, but I've been reluctant to spend more given how quick these have worn
And I'm CERTAIN it's got nothing to do with how I'm using them :wink:
custard
Established Member
My first diamond stone was a red DMT, that was about 20 years ago and it's still going strong.
I now lubricate with water from a plant mister to which is aded a dash of "hone right gold" from Workshop Heaven. Zero rust problems since I started using this, it really does what it says on the tin.
I now lubricate with water from a plant mister to which is aded a dash of "hone right gold" from Workshop Heaven. Zero rust problems since I started using this, it really does what it says on the tin.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
I've had my DMT stones for about 15 years (may be longer) and they are still OK. I've always used them with 3-in-1 oil. While they seemed expensive when I bought them, they've proved to be very good value for money.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Cheers :wink:
Paul
i used a 400\1000 diamond and finished with 1200 wet dry on glass kitchen table...dont tell the missus
i not sure what is best angle
this is by hand and no guide so had a go and got the protractor out
its like a new hobby so will go thru my chisel box until i get bored
hoping to get good enough to think about getting some decent chisels
i not sure what is best angle
this is by hand and no guide so had a go and got the protractor out
its like a new hobby so will go thru my chisel box until i get bored
hoping to get good enough to think about getting some decent chisels
