Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
This is a composite of posts I made at WoodNet. I am surprised that no one here has noticed an addition on Lee Valley:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... at=51&ap=1
I helped evaluate these films, working through a wad of different grits to narrow down the micron progression, and trying to get a fix on their longevity.
Keep in mind that these should not be considered a replacement of oil/waterstones in a permanent set up, but are ideal for working with PM steels or as part of a travelling kit.
That said, the films are amazing in their ability to hone steel, and their longevity. I have some that have been through at least a hundred cycles (per piece). Just be careful that you do not inadvertantly slice the film (with a rough edge). I use a little camilla oil for a lubricant. This works very well.
Regarding the mesh sizing: Firstly, it is available in this sizing from the manufacturer I believe, which makes it cheaper I imagine. Secondly, I had the idea that one could (as I have) stuck all meshes on one 12" x 6" substratum (glass or whatever), which makes it convenient to store and use. A 6"x3" mesh is large enough for either freehanding or a guide (note: these meshes act like diamond plates - there is no cross contamination). The mesh requires very little "movement" to do its job. I did not experience an issue with dubbing. The mesh is unlike sandpaper - it is very flat and on a hard backing. Be sure that you clean the substratum well - dust below will create a bump, which will end up being sliced.
The meshes chosen (15/3/.5/.1u) allow for the least extra wear on each successive mesh ... in other words, the most efficient use of each mesh. You could forgo the 0.1u if you wish, but I must say that the addition of this takes the sharpening level to something well beyond "scary" ... frightening sharp.
Here is my "sharpening centre" - a 1" thick length of flat granite ...
At the start I used water to lubricate and carry away the swarf. This was recommended by LV. I quickly changed this to water-plus-detergent, which was a big improvement. Later I suggested Camilia oil, which was an even bigger improvement.
I was also evaluating the new PM steel for LV, plus I had CPM 3V and M4 on hand, along with A2. Testing the films on softer steels is a lot like testing plane blades on straight-grained woods - it is less likely that you will find important differences when the conditions are easy. Using harder/abrasion-resistant steels really shows up the potential of these films. They work just as well on the O1 and A2 steels, but then the differences with a Shapton or even an oilstone will be reduced significantly.
The mesh-Camilia oil combination is quite a different feel to waterstones. Even more so along the spectrum is a cast iron plate with impregnated diamond paste. These are hard and slippery - very little feedback. Waterstones, even the hard ceramic stones, given more feedback. My old Kings, which were quite soft, gave lots of feedback.
I really would not consider the diamond film for " taking care of a nick". This is the weak point of the film - it is vulnerable to being cut. Avoid contact with ragged edges . The film is best for dull blades, not damaged edges.
Would I exchange the Shaptons for the diamond film for non-PM type blades? Not for everyday honing - I prefer the waterstones. However, for the PM type steels, no question - the diamond film wins hands down. Also as a travel kit. The film has huge potential there.
In summary, these meshes are a must-try. Prepare to be amazed. You may not stop smiling!
Regards from Perth
Derek
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... at=51&ap=1
I helped evaluate these films, working through a wad of different grits to narrow down the micron progression, and trying to get a fix on their longevity.
Keep in mind that these should not be considered a replacement of oil/waterstones in a permanent set up, but are ideal for working with PM steels or as part of a travelling kit.
That said, the films are amazing in their ability to hone steel, and their longevity. I have some that have been through at least a hundred cycles (per piece). Just be careful that you do not inadvertantly slice the film (with a rough edge). I use a little camilla oil for a lubricant. This works very well.
Regarding the mesh sizing: Firstly, it is available in this sizing from the manufacturer I believe, which makes it cheaper I imagine. Secondly, I had the idea that one could (as I have) stuck all meshes on one 12" x 6" substratum (glass or whatever), which makes it convenient to store and use. A 6"x3" mesh is large enough for either freehanding or a guide (note: these meshes act like diamond plates - there is no cross contamination). The mesh requires very little "movement" to do its job. I did not experience an issue with dubbing. The mesh is unlike sandpaper - it is very flat and on a hard backing. Be sure that you clean the substratum well - dust below will create a bump, which will end up being sliced.
The meshes chosen (15/3/.5/.1u) allow for the least extra wear on each successive mesh ... in other words, the most efficient use of each mesh. You could forgo the 0.1u if you wish, but I must say that the addition of this takes the sharpening level to something well beyond "scary" ... frightening sharp.
Here is my "sharpening centre" - a 1" thick length of flat granite ...
At the start I used water to lubricate and carry away the swarf. This was recommended by LV. I quickly changed this to water-plus-detergent, which was a big improvement. Later I suggested Camilia oil, which was an even bigger improvement.
I was also evaluating the new PM steel for LV, plus I had CPM 3V and M4 on hand, along with A2. Testing the films on softer steels is a lot like testing plane blades on straight-grained woods - it is less likely that you will find important differences when the conditions are easy. Using harder/abrasion-resistant steels really shows up the potential of these films. They work just as well on the O1 and A2 steels, but then the differences with a Shapton or even an oilstone will be reduced significantly.
The mesh-Camilia oil combination is quite a different feel to waterstones. Even more so along the spectrum is a cast iron plate with impregnated diamond paste. These are hard and slippery - very little feedback. Waterstones, even the hard ceramic stones, given more feedback. My old Kings, which were quite soft, gave lots of feedback.
I really would not consider the diamond film for " taking care of a nick". This is the weak point of the film - it is vulnerable to being cut. Avoid contact with ragged edges . The film is best for dull blades, not damaged edges.
Would I exchange the Shaptons for the diamond film for non-PM type blades? Not for everyday honing - I prefer the waterstones. However, for the PM type steels, no question - the diamond film wins hands down. Also as a travel kit. The film has huge potential there.
In summary, these meshes are a must-try. Prepare to be amazed. You may not stop smiling!
Regards from Perth
Derek
