DeWalt DW3501 Bandsaw

[yngndrw]

Hello,

I've just recently purchased an old DeWalt DW3501 bandsaw, it was "in need of some TLC" so I picked it up for £50. Unfortunately, it's the model with the plastic wheels but it is also the variable speed model which is nice. (And the mitre gauge is miles too small for the slot!)

The poor thing was in a sorry state, it didn't run (It needed a new capacitor), the bearings were shot and two of the blade guides had been replaced with wood. There was also a lot of hardware which had been bodged over the years.

While trying to remove the control box for the capacitor, I needed to disassemble a few things and remove the lower wheel. I removed the nut but found that the bearings were pressed onto the shaft - I ended up destroying the shaft in the process. Fortunately, spares are still available. (https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/dewalt-dw3501-type-1-bandsaw-spare-parts-s2946/) Given the state of the machine, I ended up spending a fortune replacing a lot of parts. (I could have sourced the nuts and bots separately for a lot less, sometimes it's just more convenient to buy them from one place though.)

After a lot of frustration, I also ended up purchasing a hydraulic press for the bearings and some tooling to help install them. It is very easy with the right equipment, but a large unexpected outlay.

My cheap little bandsaw project now owes me:
- Bandsaw: £50
- Blade: £26
- Spares: £251 (That's still using the plastic wheels, metal wheels would be an extra £210!)
- Hydraulic Press: £255
- Bearing Installation Kit: £307 (Okay that was more for other things, I would have needed more custom bushings without it though)
- Custom Bushings For Bearing Installation: £44

So £327 + £606 in tools. While I could have done it for a lot less in tools, the hydraulic press is frankly mandatory when working with these pressed bearings. (And even less now knowing what I know)

Anyway dubious spending aside, and there's probably a warning about restoring old tools and the unexpected requirements for tools - It works quite well. Probably not £327 + £606 well, but it is what it is. I've been using it to cut notches in some laminate flooring and it made life much easier. I did have an issue during the setup which I was hoping someone might be able to advise about.

The blade guide setup is a bearing at the back of the blade and a consumable metal block on either side of the blade. The manual calls for a 0.4mm gap between the back of the blade and the bearing, and a 0.1mm between each blade guide and the side of the blade.

When I set it up like this, I found that there was a loud click every time the blade weld went through the guide. I ended up backing the side blade guides off a little more and while there's still a click (And slight jump that you can feel) it's a lot better. It's usable and makes a nice cut - But not being used to bandsaws I don't know what to expect - Is this an issue with the blade (I just picked up a blade from Miles Tool & Machinery Centre), is it my setup, is it the design of this bandsaw or is it to be expected from any bandsaw? I don't know what my expectations should be - I know that some cheap bandsaws use bearings for the side guides but then I've also seen some fancy bandsaws which have ceramic guides - Suggesting that bandsaw blades should really have a smoother weld than mine does?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Lons]

I owned one for years before swapping for a Startrite 352 and it did everything I asked within it's limitations. I wouldn't worry about the side guides too much as they are there only if you put on too much sideways pressure. If the tension is right, the blade sharp and you let the saw do the work you'll be fine.
I agree about the weld and I had the odd blade like that in which case I ran a stone along the weld to smooth it off, the back of the blade got the same treatment as they are sometimes out of alignment.

I buy all my blades from Tuffsaws who I find completely reliable btw.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.justbandsawblades.co.uk...e=PDGCommTemplates/HF_nls2/ProdDescSilco.html

are excellent as well.

 

[johnnyb]

What I've learnt over many years and interactions is there's the right way, the wrong way and a vague grey area where the job gets done using things not really meant for it and and brute force....basically anything that will achieve the end. Anything apart from spending money. Backyard /shade tree mechanicking is another phrase.
I prefer the phrase "craft". If your making wardrobes you need a 3.2m panel saw. If you rarely need that cut then another method is called for.

 

[yngndrw]

Thank you, I'll have a closer look at the blade and see if I can smooth out the weld - If not I'll have a look at the Tuffsaw and Silco blades.

What I've learnt over many years and interactions is there's the right way, the wrong way and a vague grey area where the job gets done using things not really meant for it and and brute force....basically anything that will achieve the end. Anything apart from spending money. Backyard /shade tree mechanicking is another phrase.
I prefer the phrase "craft". If your making wardrobes you need a 3.2m panel saw. If you rarely need that cut then another method is called for.

Yes your right, having stripped a DW3501 I now know that I should have removed the bandsaw wheels with their axles (Top one by undoing the tension handle fully, bottom one with the 6mm hex from behind with a reverse rotation) and that would have allowed me to remove the axle cartridges from the wheels without destroying them. I could have done without the fancy bearing installation kit and had a couple more custom bushings made, but it still couldn't have been done without a press. I tried a big hammer, I tried freezing the shafts but they are a very tight press-fit. The rear guide bearings are also a press-fit, not just the axles. Knowing what I know, I think it would have still cost £600 in total.

 

[johnnyb]

I'm not decrying your method or result. Just saying that If the alternate "techniques" didn't work then the machine would have been scrapped. Which is a shame. I've fixed up many machines over the years and the last was a hegner lathe with a clicky bearing. Someone had abandoned the "repair" when they'd hit the bearing to hard. I pressed the bearing out using wood and g clamps. I then upgraded to a double angular contact bearing rather than a deep roller making a new housing cap as it was deeper! What a pain. But the result was amazing.

 

[johnnyb]

Ps imagine factoring in your time also!