Dewalt DW3401 Bandsaw

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Dubz420

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colchester
Hi I'm new to the forum and the finer arts of working with wood. I have recently inherited a Dewalt DW3401 Bandsaw. I have seen The compleat Bandsaw DVD but I wondered if there were any owners ex owners of this type of machine that may have some set up tips more specific to my saw. I apologise if this has been covered in a previous post but as I said I'm a newb.

Thanks in advance.

Dan
 
I've got one.

Make sure you don't over tighten the little grub screws that hold the guide blocks. I did and it snapped the block casing and cost £20 to replace.

The table and fence aren't very good so I would recommend making your own or buying a better one. It's simple to do with some plywood- just google it and there are some good 'how to' guides around.

The little grub screw on the table nearest the machine alters the angle of the table in relation to the blade. Pay particular attention to this as it occasionally slips.

Fit it with a blade from "Tuffsaws".

Any more q's just ask.
 
I have been told about tuffsaws and spoken to the guy recently too. I just dont seem to be able to get enough tension into the blade without it ceasing. The blade wanders and The last time I tried to use it I vowed never to do so again. Seems extremely unsafe to my untrained eye.
I've been told it is a good saw I'm just not sure how to go about the trouble shooting.

Thanks again.

Dan
 
Hi Dan

I have the 3501 which is identical but variable speed instead of 2 speed. Mine is over 20 years old now and though not the best, it has served me well in all that time. I have the original manual if you don't and could copy if required.

As anima says, buy a blade and just give it a tune up.
I don't have Steve Maskerys DVDs but from what other members say, you might want to look at them.

cheers

Bob
 
I have the Manual thanks Bob and Steve's DVD's I've just got the fear with the thing and was trying to scope if this is a fairly common issue or if it is just my machine.
Thanks again.

Dan
 
Dubz420":2xhatts7 said:
I have the Manual thanks Bob and Steve's DVD's I've just got the fear with the thing and was trying to scope if this is a fairly common issue or if it is just my machine.
Thanks again.

Dan

Machine is decent as long as you don't over estimate its capabilities. The main body is plastic so it isn't as rigid as the metal bodies on the expensive models (I think mine was about £250 all those years ago :shock: so not cheap at the time and from memory the startright was about £350)

It's very safe as long as you keep your fingers away from the blade AND USE A GOOD BLADE. I've cut myself only once and I was pushing into a blunt blade and in a hurry - STUPID. Even when a blade has snapped or come off the wheels whilst backing off there has been no danger issues for me. Most is commonsense.

They are dead easy to set up and I'd suggest you loosen and lubricate all the set screws and then set it up as if from new. Having said that, mine is probably the most abused machine I have :oops: and it's never let me down. I've cut some pretty hefty stuff as well when I owned a lathe.

Bob
 
Thanks once again Bob I've been looking around the forum and found a couple of hints and tips that are pertaining to my issue and shall give these a go tomorrow if the snow doesn,t make getting to the workshop to much of an issue.
I can't get the blade to run on the centre of the tyre on the lower wheel. Any tips?

Dan
 
Dubz420":1vt1t9p4 said:
Thanks once again Bob I've been looking around the forum and found a couple of hints and tips that are pertaining to my issue and shall give these a go tomorrow if the snow doesn,t make getting to the workshop to much of an issue.
I can't get the blade to run on the centre of the tyre on the lower wheel. Any tips?

Dan

The bottom wheel should be ok Dan, it's the top wheel that's adjustable to true up the blade as well as tension it.
Check that the bottom wheel hasn't loosened off though it is possible it has been distorted by overtensioning and leaving for long periods in that state.
Asuming it's ok, put the blade on, tension it and turn it by hand whilst adjusting the knob on the back of the casing. I set mine so it runs just on or fractionally forward of the wheel crown. I've never touched the bottom wheel! I actually adjust with the case open and saw running at slowest speed whilst keeping all limbs well out of the way, but I definately don't advise you to do that. H&S bods would have kittens :wink:

If you can't tension the blade after this then either it's streched or slightly oversize is the most likely cause. If the blade guide blocks and rear bearing supports aren't properly adjusted the blade can come off. Remember the blocks need to be just behind the blade teeth and rollers very close but only in contact during actual cutting.

cheers

Bob
 
My blade doesn't sit in the middle of the wheel.

Looking at the wheel as if stood using the machine the wheel has a bevel on the left. This is to allow the teeth (which alternate left and right) room to rotate. On mine the edge of the teeth are almost off the edge of the wheel.

In terms of tension- you should be able to move it from side to side by about a fingers width when the mouth is open.

Ill post a photo of my set up tomorrow. If I forget just PM me to remind me.
 
Lons said:
Hi Dan

I have the 3501 which is identical but variable speed instead of 2 speed. Mine is over 20 years old now and though not the best, it has served me well in all that time. I have the original manual if you don't and could copy if required.

As anima says, buy a blade and just give it a tune up.
I don't have Steve Maskerys DVDs but from what other members say, you might want to look at them.

cheers

I could use a copy, our club is supplying lathes and bandsaws for young people to use at home, we have 6 kitted out now, we could do with a manual for the dwalt 3401 bandsaw if you could copy it for me please.

Mick
 
teacher":2jkmu63f said:
I could use a copy, our club is supplying lathes and bandsaws for young people to use at home, we have 6 kitted out now, we could do with a manual for the dwalt 3401 bandsaw if you could copy it for me please. Mick

Hi Mick

No problem though it might take me a few days to scan into a pdf as I'm busy with a largish job at the minute.

I need your email address to send it to so can you pm me with that please and I'll sort it out for you as soon as I have time.

cheers
Bob
 
Hi has anyone got a user manual & set up guide for this machine which i appear to have inherited on long term loan.
Jen
 
Hi Dubz,
I have a copy if the other offers don't materialise. Send me your email address and I'll send you a scan. Mine is an Elu but it's the same as the DeWalt. The saw is not at all bad but the table is cr@p and the fence is worse. I also have a Startrite 351 but I still use the Elu, especially for smaller freehand work. As has been said many times - get a good blade. Mine is an Axcalibur and seems to work fine.

K
 
This was my first bandsaw. At the time, DW had swapped out the metal wheels and substituted polypropylene ones. They lasted about 15 mins before the bearing housing gave out.. Same with the replacement. Eventually they sent me a metal pair of wheels and that machine, bought 30 years ago, is still in use today.

Yes the fence is poor, but at least there is no adjustment on it, which does, at least, force the user to set the tracking properly rather than cheat and skew the fence to compensate for poor setup.

IIRC I installed Cool Blocks on it and they were excellent.

My brother has the machine now, and every time I see him I ask him if he is thinking of getting rid of it, in which case I'd love to have it as a secondary machine.

I would probably change the fence for the one I built as a Beismeyer cheat for my TS, but apart from that it would be happy to have it in my workshop.
 
Hi
I sold the bandsaw a month ago as I have a Startrite 352.
I have the manual as a pdf file however and happy to email it if you pm me your email address.
cheers
Bobn
 
My elu would not tension the blade, the adjusting knob just kept turning. The problem was the thread stripped on the tension rod which the tension knob is threaded onto. To repair this you do not need to remove the upper bamd wheel - doing so does not give you better access and can be tricky to get back into position.
I had to pull the tension knob while unscrewing it - a bit of a job but possible. Once it grips then it can be fully unscrewed and the damaged rod can be removed and replaced. If it won't unscrew then it can be wrenched off but that damages the plastic adjusting knob.

K
 
Try this Dan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWa ... re=mh_lolz

Photos of the De-Walt one I had and the table top I made for it, which may be available from the guy I sold it to, as he doesn't use it. A 3 x 2 fence was used clamped to the edge of the table and worked a treat, even tough it took a bit longer to set up.

DeWalt_0863 R.jpg

Reduced table top _0677.jpg


Alex ................................................ just noticed this is a 2013 thread wi
hich Jen added to rather than ask a question in a new thread ..................
 

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Hi - I’m new to the forum and just acquired the Dewalt DW3501 bandsaw.

Hate to jump in with a ‘me too’ on first post - but if you still have the manual available to share it would be much appreciated!

The bandsaw needs a good clean up - and I’m planning to get a new blades from Tuffsaws plus the fence upgrade from Axminster. If anyone has any other tips on this saw they would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance

Marcus
 
Marcus, welcome.
But it helps to look at the dates of posts when you reply. This thread started in 2013, and the last one before yours was May 2015.
:shock:
You might be lucky though, hang on in there. 8)
 
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