DeWalt DW110 radial arm saw

[beech1948]

Hi.
Have a look at the owwm.com web site. ( Old Woodworking Machines). They may well have a copy of the manual and the parts list. One of their members will also have done a refurb probably and so have pictures to show.

regards
Alan

 

[Iskariot]

The motor is powered by a Steinmetz connection simulating the third phase. There is a performance loss due to this but it's factory issue so the motor stats all factor this in. The motor is reported to be 1kW with this setup. It's a common way to easily convert equipment from three to one-phase use and used even today.

I looked into getting a VFD when I was searching for a RAS. Didn't find a suitable one that could do around 2kW, they were all 1kW or lower. I may look into creating a switch to change between one and three-phase. Right now simply getting all the parts together in an orderly fashion is my main priority. Looking to cut a few corners by replacing the capacitor and move some of the electronics up to the motor.

I have read a lot of threads on owwm.org and read the wiki and other documents. Very informative and truly inspirational. The main problem with owwm is that it's only American machines. Well, DeWalt RASes at least.

A member on this forum (I won't disclose his name in case he doesn't want it known) has sent me the entire manual! In addition to several other helpful documents. Was interesting to see that the blade guard was specific to Scandinavia. That or they named it Scandinavia, I don't know for sure. I'm missing the knife setup for ripping so I will have to mail Miles again and ask nicely if they can have a second look.

Going to ask around if anyone knows a local shop that specializes in bearings. I'm also reconsidering the motor bearings. Either it's my imagination or there is a faint rattle in the smallest (the one away from the blade) bearing. I don't have a press to take off and put on new bearings so I have to look up someone for this as well. I could probably get the bearings off with a puller but I would have to jury-rig something awful to press new ones on.

 

[kirkpoore1]

The motor is powered by a Steinmetz connection simulating the third phase. There is a performance loss due to this but it's factory issue so the motor stats all factor this in. The motor is reported to be 1kW with this setup. It's a common way to easily convert equipment from three to one-phase use and used even today.

Ah. Never heard of it before, but I found a thread on Practical Machinist that explained it (above my pay grade, alas).

I looked into getting a VFD when I was searching for a RAS. Didn't find a suitable one that could do around 2kW, they were all 1kW or lower. I may look into creating a switch to change between one and three-phase. Right now simply getting all the parts together in an orderly fashion is my main priority. Looking to cut a few corners by replacing the capacitor and move some of the electronics up to the motor.

I have read a lot of threads on owwm.org and read the wiki and other documents. Very informative and truly inspirational. The main problem with owwm is that it's only American machines. Well, DeWalt RASes at least.

OWWM.com has actually changed it's name to VintageMachinery.org, and is now accepting stuff on European machines. If you have a scan of that manual, they (Keith Rucker etc) will put it up, especially since it's for a known manufacturer.


Good luck on the bearing hunt. I'm sure you'll get the right thing.

Kirk

 

[beech1948]

Don't be so quick to write off OWWM.org as just Americam machines.

The basic structure of a DeWalt RAS in the US is almost identical to that of your 110. I'd bet that bearings etc are all the same. Even the 3phase will be pretty much identical just the voltages being different but 3ph is 3ph and the same laws of physics apply.

If you want to cut yourself off from a really good supply of know how then so be it.
Alan

 

[Iskariot]

Oh, I haven't written it off, far from it. Most of the information I have on refurbishing an old RAS is from OWWM and American sources. It's just the European touches and the weird numbering that is problematic.

 

[Wrinkly]

I recently acquired an instruction manual for a DW110 from ebay. It is only a copy, sent as a pdf file so i can (hopefully) send a copy via this forum

 

[Noel]

Although you mentioned it, opening and regreasing the sled bearings worked for me and that was 4 or 5 years ago and still smooth as ever today. When and if they dry out or get rough I'll clean them and throw in some new grease.

 

[Iskariot]

Thanks for the input, guys. I've gotten two manuals and some pointers on spare parts. Haven't had the time or energy to host these on the net yet. I will at some point.

The bearings are all dried up and I could have greased them up in a pinch but they show sign of wear and contamination. Miles can get new ones and some parts if you ask for the part number directly. Other than that I just looked at a similar Elu saw and made a list. I've decided to change the rotor bearings at some point as well as the small one has a slight wear in it. The project can continue while I wait for that though

Unfortunately my project has been put on hold while I finish more pressing matter in and around the house. The Mrs. doesn't see the same value in an old DeWalt as I. Once I finish the pressing matters the DW110 can see some quality time alone with me again.

While I'm here: Pointers on finding a Freud LU84 that ships internationally? The DeWalt RAS forum (http://people.delphiforums.com/snotzalo ... st/faq.htm) suggested this blade if you're not aiming for a Forrest blade. The latter is probably my goal in the end but I may as well start with the second best.

 

[Sunshine]

I have a DW110 that I bought 30 years ago and I am having the same problems now that I am refurbishing it.

Is it possible to let me know where you got the manuals from and provide the links mentioned?

More urgently how do you get the two parts of the carriage apart? The only way that I can see is to undo the large screw, however it does not want to undo and I do not wish to damage it if there is a secret trick. (No locking screws as per the link provided unfortunately)

 

[Sunshine]

For anyone who has got this far and is still stuck; the screw undoes if you gently lift the locking washer over the stop. Undoing the screw and lifting for each 'ear'. Once the locking arm is completely off the screw the screw can be gently knocked out.

 

[sjalloq]

This is an old thread but seems to have some relevant info so I'll go ahead and ask...

I've got a DW111 that I'm trying to give a quick refurbish and am wondering if it's possible to clean/re-grease the roller head bearings? Mine seem to be covered in grime/dust and it looks to have made it past the metal shield of the bearing. Would they have been grease filled at some point? Is there any way to flush them or do I just need to replace?

I'm also struggling to find any info on how to adjust the roller head bearings for play. The manuals for the DW110 and the later 125 both have 3 bearings - 1 with an eccentric mounting bolt allowing adjustment. On the DW111 there are 4 bearings, two seem to have a lock or adjustment grub screw. I've not looked at it in any more detail yet but any hints about how to adjust would be helpful.

Thanks.

 

[k13ehr]

I just saw (sorry) this thread, I have just bought a Dewalt 110 RAS, and actually do have a manual for it.

This is the one I have and it is very comprehensive, I have pictures of all the pages for anyone wanting them.


This is the quality (or not) of the pictures I've already taken.



I'm in the process of making a PDF of it if anyone is interested.


Sorry it seems I do not have permissions to post pictures, not something I've ever come across before and I'm on a lot of forums.

Can a Mod please make it so I can post images etc , I know it's usual for a newbie to be asking questions, and I will have loads believe me, but I like to give back first if I can :shock: :shock:

Kev.




Smileys not working either

 

[sjalloq]

I think you have to post a certain number of posts before you can link or attach pics. Just comment on a bunch of project pages to hit the quota.

I'd be interested in the PDF once you have it. I managed to sort out the adjustment on my RAS and have some pics to post at some point. The 110 has 4 rollers, 2 of which are on eccentric bolts that have grub screws to lock them down.

 

[CHJ]

There is no restriction on uploading images to the forum server other than max pixel size.
Links to off site url's are subject to spam post restrictions until you have three forum posts.

Upload to forum sever is always preferable, then images don't get lost with host changes.

There is a Picture Posting Guide at the top of every forum section page.

 

[k13ehr]

Thanks for the replies, I'll post again and then see what happens.



Kev

 

[k13ehr]

How do you quote a post is it C&P as I don't see a quote button?

Kev

 

[k13ehr]

Here's a link to part of the manual, still have some to do

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ncrwpjnvmaveh ... e.pdf?dl=0

It takes a little while to open so be patient.

 

[k13ehr]

I'll share the link to the full manual in picture form, just download a few pages that are useful rather than the full book.

Link to folder

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6jieizoof2wh ... nJ5Ha?dl=0

This one is quicker to open and access.