Damp Problem - I'm not sure what to do...
- Thread starter JoeS
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
johna.clements
Established Member
Now read that back to yourself.
johna.clements
Established Member
Don't add a comment about it now.Anyone up for a sharpening debate?
Hang about, no1 brought up rising damp in my mortgage thread!! We could have easily got past a thousand posts
Jameshow
Established Member
Please don't tell D_W or Jacob about this damp thread.. please I beg you!!!Anyone up for a sharpening debate?
Hang about, no1 brought up rising damp in my mortgage thread!! We could have easily got past a thousand posts
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I'm sure a lifetime of mockery by the whole of construction industry for being so thoroughly wrong is sufficient payment for that.My thesis was on Diaphragm walls, modern practice has proved my hypothesis was incorrect, but I was still awarded a PhD for it, should I give it back?
The majority of the construction industry would not know what a Diaphragm wall was, or for what purpose you would use one, it was a very small part of my Hypothesis that was incorrect the majority of the thesis stands and is still used as a reference in the University Library.
imo this is possibly a leak behind the corner pipe casing.could be a dosed joint seal if a first floor soil pipe is coming down that casing (if its a casing that is or is that a solid wall ?)or a hot /cold leak if pipes are running up.
rising damp would not be 6ft up a wall .damp will only rise up about 150-200 until it gets out by evaporation .
could be an ingress of water at the abutment roof level as you say this is a lean to.they are famous for water seeping into the masonary above an abutment,hence the use of cavity trays in modern construction.i,d first rule out a leak in any pipework.
have the higher wall above the abutment checked for pointing /cracks in render etc and then a few coats of masonry water repellant above the toilet roof area but no point doing that on a sub standard wall without proper remedial work.
to check your heating system for leaks,a sealed system will loss pressure which you would be aware of by this point .
a vented system can be checked by tying up the ball **** in the expansion tank for a week and then release it to see it any water flows from the valve.if no water flows ,the system is sound .
that will rule out heating system leaks so your into supply pipes then but the height of the damp issue leads me to an abutment problem.
first thing i,d do is remove the plasterboard off the casing .not the biggest issue to reinstate that .you might get a better understanding at that stage but in my experience ,its pointing towards the roof and the abutment wall.
this is possibly a leak behind the corner pipe casing.could be a dosed joint seal if a first floor soil pipe is coming down that casing (if its a casing that is or is that a solid wall ?)or a hot /cold leak if pipes are running up.rising damp would not be 6ft up a wall .damp will only rise up about 150-200 until it gets out by evaporation .
could be an ingress of water at the abutment roof level as you say this is a lean to.they are famous for water seeping into the masonary above an abutment,hence the use of cavity trays in modern construction.i,d first rule out a leak in any pipework.
have the higher wall above the abutment checked for pointing /cracks in render etc and then a few coats of masonry water repellant above the toilet roof area but no point doing that on a sub standard wall without proper remedial work.
to check your heating system for leaks,a sealed system will loss pressure which you would be aware of by this point .
a vented system can be checked by tying up the ball **** in the expansion tank for a week and then release it to see it any water flows from the valve.if no water flows ,the system is sound .
that will rule out heating system leaks so your into supply pipes then but the height of the damp issue leads me to an abutment problem.
first thing i,d do is remove the plasterboard off the casing .not the biggest issue to reinstate that .you might get a better understanding at that stage but in my experience ,its pointing towards the roof and the abutment wall.
Last edited:
if you could sketch a rough floor plan including the next door house ,it would give a better understanding of the layout and indicate any pipe casing.
also a photo of the rear of the properties would be helpful to see what the lean to is butting into.
