Dakota Precision Straight Edge For Setting Planer Tables

[pollys13]

Hi all,
I have a Metabo HC260C planer/thicknesser. I'm looking at the Dakota precision straight edge Ebay item number 112081578863 to align the tables. Would the Dakota be suitable for this? I had thought of getting a longer 48" + spirit level that might come in handy for the bandsaw too but don't think can get ones that are precision flat and affordable?

 

[Beau]

I would definitely not go for a spirit level. For setting up tables you want to be able to site through under the level. The narrower the blade the better for this aspect. No idea about the Dakota but it's cheap for a precision tool. Personally I would not buy a straight edge or square that I could not see and check with a reference tool as so many straight edges and squares are neither strait nor square unless buying from the the likes of More and Wright or Rabone Chesterman.

 

[JohnPW]

• Set up woodworking machinery tables and beds to +/- 0.05mm accuracy over 965mm

If it's actually accurate to within 0.05mm over nearly a metre, then that's good enough for woodworking, I would have thought.

 

[bugbear]

• Set up woodworking machinery tables and beds to +/- 0.05mm accuracy over 965mm

If it's actually accurate to within 0.05mm over nearly a metre, then that's good enough for woodworking, I would have thought.

Agreed.

The trouble is, given past experience, Rutlands/Dakota aren't especially trustworthy, and it's difficult to check, unless you own an existing straight edge or surface plate that is bigger and more accurate...

(drawing a line and flipping would reveal huge errors, but not small ones, for appropriate meanings of "huge" and "small")

BugBear

 

[sunnybob]

Drawing a line and flipping will reveal extremely small errors if you use a piece of metal and a scribing point, then check with a magnifying glass.
Wooden pencil lines are just too thick for that job.

 

[JohnPW]

Get 3 of them, then check them against each other.

 

[pollys13]

OK thanks all for the input so far. I'm starting to think Veritas 36" steel straight edge?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Hi all,
I have a Metabo HC260C planer/thicknesser. I'm looking at the Dakota precision straight edge Ebay item number 112081578863 to align the tables. Would the Dakota be suitable for this? I had thought of getting a longer 48" + spirit level that might come in handy for the bandsaw too but don't think can get ones that are precision flat and affordable?

If it's the one I tried to buy from them a few years back, it's complete rubbish.

One arrived: bent.
Sent it back.
Replacement arrived: bent (differently)
Sent that back & asked for complete refund.

I don't remember if I got my return postage refunded, but that was the end of my dealings with Rutlands. It was by no means the first item I'd had to return to them. To be fair, I had a look at their web site recently and there are some signs the management has changed. I hope so, for the sake of their customers (they should probably start with a purge of the buying department!).

But you want a straightedge. I bought a 750mm one from Axminster. I'm delighted with it - no nonsense, just very usable. I do note that it's a lot more now than I paid at the time, but in terms of quality and usefulness, it's just what I need (planer tables, router split fences, and as a standard to check other stuff against, etc.). I doubt it would survive being dropped onto concrete, but I treat it as a ref. standard so I'm careful with it.

E.

[edit] Just saw your last post: I looked at the Veritas one at the time. There are two huge disadvantages: (1) it's an awkward shape - fine if you want to plonk it on some planer tables but pretty useless for any other purpose. I can't afford many single-use tools at those prices. (2) it's aluminium. Aly is a soft material that bends (deforms) and gets nicks and dings, and wears easily. I don't actually think it's suitable for that purpose (but it is cheap to extrude!). [/]

 

[pollys13]

As my planer beds are 43" YorkshireMartin says I need to go end to end and corner to corner to check for level across the full width of the beds and for twist. He says be a good idea to get the Veritas 50" aluminium straight edge and handle and store it very carefully.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

As my planer beds are 43" YorkshireMartin says I need to go end to end and corner to corner to check for level across the full width of the beds and for twist. He says be a good idea to get the Veritas 50" aluminium straight edge and handle and store it very carefully.

After taking advice, thats what I do/did. I don't see the point in having a shorter straight edge than the tables are long, as the straight edge could potentially end up sitting in a dip itself.

 

[MikeJhn]

To be honest chaps I use a plaster's straight edge, they come in various lengths and are thick enough to be honed to a perfectly useable tool, once in position, shinning a light behind them lets you see if the bed is flat.

Mike

 

[Lonsdale73]

The Dakota looks a lot like the Veritas. So when looking for a straight edge that's reliable but doesn't require a remortgage which ones should we be looking at? I've seen recommendations for aluminium - presumably because it's less likely to damage any blades it comes in contact with - a softness which seems it is susceptible to dings, dents, bends and warping. The Veritas steel version is more than double the price of the ali version yet still cheaper than the Woodpecker which is not only aluminium but seems to double as a ruler with a bevelled edged so only one usable face? There was a rusty Wright on More that required grinding back to straight costing more than any of the others mentioned and that was without the reserve having been met. Almost as bewildering as choosing a table saw / band'saw / hand saw!

 

[Jacob]

Check for level and twist by sighting along. Some blocks of precise thickness would help (book size, brick size etc) - you sight from block to block rather than trying to scan the surface - like winding sticks.
Come to think winding sticks would do for level too - sight along them in line, rather than across square on. I'll have a go tomorrow.

 

[pollys13]

Check for level and twist by sighting along. Some blocks of precise thickness would help (book size, brick size etc) - you sight from block to block rather than trying to scan the surface - like winding sticks.
Come to think winding sticks would do for level too - sight along them in line, rather than across square on. I'll have a go tomorrow.

OK, I don't quite follow but thanks anyway, will be interested to read tomorrows post.

 

[Jacob]

Check for level and twist by sighting along. Some blocks of precise thickness would help (book size, brick size etc) - you sight from block to block rather than trying to scan the surface - like winding sticks.
Come to think winding sticks would do for level too - sight along them in line, rather than across square on. I'll have a go tomorrow.

OK, I don't quite follow but thanks anyway, will be interested to read tomorrows post.

If you had two identical, say, book sized blocks sitting on a surface then you could sight across them to see if they were level against each other, in which case the surface would be too.
Ditto sighting along two winding sticks.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Hi all,
I have a Metabo HC260C planer/thicknesser. I'm looking at the Dakota precision straight edge Ebay item number 112081578863 to align the tables. Would the Dakota be suitable for this? I had thought of getting a longer 48" + spirit level that might come in handy for the bandsaw too but don't think can get ones that are precision flat and affordable?

I'd been meaning to ask the same question for some time and now for much the same reason as you. I asked Peter Sefton of the Woodworker's Workshop and based on his suggestions I've gone for the Veritas Steel Straight edge. It costs quite a bit more than the Dakota one but I've bought cheaper options before and only had to go back a buy a dearer, better version so figure I'm actually saving money this time.

 

[Jacob]

Personally I don't think a straight edge is a necessary piece of kit for a woodworker - other than the ones you can make for your self with a bit of wood and a plane.
I've got a metal one but it only gets used for drawing straight lines sometimes, or cutting card etc.
For levelling machine tables I'd use a spirit level on edge, but otherwise just sight it with blocks etc.

 

[Beau]

Personally I don't think a straight edge is a necessary piece of kit for a woodworker - other than the ones you can make for your self with a bit of wood and a plane.
I've got a metal one but it only gets used for drawing straight lines sometimes, or cutting card etc.
For levelling machine tables I'd use a spirit level on edge, but otherwise just sight it with blocks etc.

Depends on the work you doing Jacob. For carpentry and joinery I would agree but for the highest standard of work it's very useful and basically essential IMO for setting up machine precisely.

 

[Jacob]

Personally I don't think a straight edge is a necessary piece of kit for a woodworker - other than the ones you can make for your self with a bit of wood and a plane.
I've got a metal one but it only gets used for drawing straight lines sometimes, or cutting card etc.
For levelling machine tables I'd use a spirit level on edge, but otherwise just sight it with blocks etc.

Depends on the work you doing Jacob. For carpentry and joinery I would agree but for the highest standard of work it's very useful and basically essential IMO for setting up machine precisely.

Nothing necessarily low standard or imprecise about joinery; vernier calliper a very much used tool.
What you imagine to be "high standard" work is usually distinguished by being highly finished, not by any extra degrees of precision.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Personally I don't think a straight edge is a necessary piece of kit for a woodworker - other than the ones you can make for your self with a bit of wood and a plane.
I've got a metal one but it only gets used for drawing straight lines sometimes, or cutting card etc.
For levelling machine tables I'd use a spirit level on edge, but otherwise just sight it with blocks etc.

So how do you know if your planed piece of wood is truly flat?

Woodworking for me is purely a hobby but even so I want the things I make to be look right, for things that are meant to be square to be square and for level things to be precisely that. Anything that helps me achieve that - which in turn helps improve my ability and enjoyment - might not be considered essential but certainly a welcome addition. Personally, I don't see the need for city dwellers to own a huge MPV to do school runs and shopping trips but many do and I don't.