Cutting wheels on router table

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Niki

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Good day

I had to cut 110 mm diameter wheel to plug some hole.

I used 6 mm bit and using the router lift, I lifted the bit till I heard the first "Eeeeeeee" (you know what I mean) and turned the board one round...turned the lift one round and the board one round and so on...

Regards
niki

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You bloody star Niki, again a really brilliant idea, your still my guru... :D
 
As usual very ingenious but wouldn't a circle cutting attachment have been easier :roll: My old Bosch has a pin :lol: that screws into the fence for just such an occasion :wink:
 
Tommo the sawdust maker":16f6n0fm said:
As usual very ingenious but wouldn't a circle cutting attachment have been easier :roll: My old Bosch has a pin :lol: that screws into the fence for just such an occasion :wink:

Maybe easier, but nowhere near as satisfying as finding your own way to do it :lol:

Anyway, love this idea as a "friend" :evil: lost my router pin. Well done matey.

Martin
 
Thank you so much

Tommo
What is the ""circle cutting attachment" or the "pin"...it's my first time to cut a circle with router :oops:

If you mean an attachment to the hand held router...isn't a 55mm radius too small...

Besides, as you can see, I'm "in love" with my router lift :D and I found it very easy to turn the workpiece with one hand and the router lift with the other and if I would have a longer bit (or thinner support board), I could make the circle in 10 seconds but because of the thickness, I had to change sides...also mot a big deal...you have to see how this router lift "knows" to make a mortise in no time...

Regards
niki
 
Hi Niki, This is what Ron Fox prescribes :p


http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_4.html

Here are pictures of the standard kit on my little Bosch but you are right it wont go that small :cry: although it works fine for larger circles :)

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The fence is turned upside down and then the pin attached.

It works O.K

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I'm going to knock up a few of Ron's :wink:
 
Niki":2zebqzkg said:
What is the ""circle cutting attachment" or the "pin"...it's my first time to cut a circle with router :oops:

Hi Niki,

If you fit an MDF base to your router, you can fit a metal pin to the base to use as a pivot point to cut very small holes - quite east to cut holes of, say, 55mm this way. It's best to make the MDF base adjustable by cutting slots where it fits to the router base so that the base and pin can be moved in relation to the router cutter so as to cut different size holes. See here for the general idea https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_4.html

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
A few years ago I took Paul's suggestion a step further by fastening a pin on a sliding trammel inserted into a false MDF router base. It's good for cutting accurate circles down to 18mm diameter.

Circlejig1.jpg


Gill
 
Thank you so much mates

Tommo
Now that you've shown me the "pin", I remember that I've seen in the box together with the router but, I never knew for what it is used for :oops:

Paul
I have an MDF (actually, HDF - floor panel) on the router base but never thought about the pin...well, as I said - my first time to cut circles with router :oops: .

Gail
Very good idea with the sliding trammel

Thank you all mates, I'm happy that I posted it...I benefited so much

Regards
niki
 
Sorry, I forgot to ask something...

So, the "pin" is stuck at the center and the router is turning around and maybe every round I increase the bit depth by 3~4 mm and now....

What happens when you get to the full depth and the circle is cut out from the board...actually, you don't have any "pivot point", the router can "dance" around...

Another problem that I see is; let's say that I have a 120mm x 120mm board and I want to cut 110mm diameter circle...I have to clamp this board somehow to the workbench and it looks like the router bit will cut a circle (not deep) on the workbench.

With my method, when the bit goes all the way through the board, I see it and crank the router lift a little bit down to leave some holding point(s) that I just break and round off with the router.

Thank you
niki
 
Hi Niki

If memory serves me right (it's a long time since I used this jig) I fastened the board I was cutting onto a sacrificial board using double-sided sticky tape. The tape held the disc as it was cut. However, there's no reason why you couldn't use a dab of hot glue to fasten it temporarily to the sacrificial board instead. If you were cutting a larger disc, you could glue or tape the board to a small block of wood and grip it in the jaws of your workmate while you routed out the disc.

Incidentally, I've still got the original sacrificial board - it must be getting on for 10 years old now :) .

Gill
 
Thank you so much Gill

In the mean time I looked in the Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book and he has the same trammel like yours....I just had to read before... :oops:

Regards
niki
 
Niki, if you are making wheels that will have a spindle, use a piece of, say, 6mm metal rod instead of a pin for the pivot point. Then when you have finished routing, you will have your hole for the spindle already drilled centrally :wink:

Like Gill, I also use double-sided tape and a sacrificial board to hold the piece down while routing.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Thank you Paul

Actually, I cut those two wheels to plug some hole on the ceiling, from both sides.

I think that after the "winter hibernation"...you know the weather in Poland...I will make some 8 mm plate with a pin and elongated hole (I mean, the round hole that you see on the pictures, will be long wide slot) so I can move it and position the distance from the bit and clamp it to the router table.

The double face tape will work also above the workpiece, just I'll use a 50 mm wide scrap but...I'm just talking, let the winter ends first...it just started...:)

Regards
niki
 
Hi Dog

Nice jig but, 43 Pounds + shipping to Poland + custom tax + 22% VAT...na, I will continue with my primitive method :)

As you said, it's your preferred method...

I feel better when the router is stationary and the "circle" is "dancing" around the bit and, with the router lift that is located out of the table, I don't have to stop and re-adjust the bit height...one hand it turning the board and the other hand is cranking the bit up at every round...

For big circles (over 8"), I'm usually using the table saw...

Regards
niki

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