Cutting through tenons

[Karl]

I am making a little dvd wall unit, and the carcass construction will be with through wedged tenons.

Do you mark the mortice from both sides and create it a little tapered on the wedged side?

Cheers

Karl

 

[Mr Ed]

You probably should cut a tapered mortice but I get away with a straight mortice and then a saw cut into a straight tenon which I wedge tight.

Always worked OK for me;

Ed

 

[woodbloke]

I am making a little dvd wall unit, and the carcass construction will be with through wedged tenons.

Do you mark the mortice from both sides and create it a little tapered on the wedged side?

Cheers

Karl

That's the way I do it as it makes assembly much easier

It means that you've got some space to insert the wedges and get them to seat properly...I extend the mortise about 1mm each side - Rob

 

[liam8223]

do you glue the wedges in place?

what timber do you use? just anything that contrasts?

 

[woodbloke]

do you glue the wedges in place?

what timber do you use? just anything that contrasts?

The wedges are glued in place and need to be made from something hard and dense...anything softer is liable to break as it's hammered into the slot. They also need to be identical so that the end grain showing in the finished joint looks the same width each side - Rob

 

[Steve Maskery]

Notice the difference between Ed's and Rob's. In Rob's the wedges are very close to the edges. This makes the edge of the tenon very pliable and it can easily be spread into the 1mm clear space.

In Ed's, the wedge is central, as far from the edge as you can get. This means spreading the tenon is more difficult (and risky) so it is better suited to a straight mortise where the tenon needs only to be tight, not mechanically locked.

Both methods are fine, but what you don't want is a mortise like Rob's and a tenon like Ed's.

HTH
Steve

 

[woodbloke]

Notice the difference between Ed's and Rob's. In Rob's the wedges are very close to the edges. This makes the edge of the tenon very pliable and it can easily be spread into the 1mm clear space.

In Ed's, the wedge is central, as far from the edge as you can get. This means spreading the tenon is more difficult (and risky) so it is better suited to a straight mortise where the tenon needs only to be tight, not mechanically locked.

Both methods are fine, but what you don't want is a mortise like Rob's and a tenon like Ed's.

HTH
Steve

Nicely put Steve...agreed - Rob

 

[joiner_sim]

I would cut the mortice square and taper the wedged end. Then cut slots in the tennon for the wedges. If you look on my website at the projects, the bed headboard was constructed using thru wedged mortice and tennons.

 

[Karl]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I've cut the joints this morning - nearly did a Rob and put it through the bandsaw

I decided to persevere and will post the glue up results later on for critique.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Digit]

Nice looking jobs fellahs.

Roy.

 

[woodbloke]

nearly did a Rob and put it through the bandsaw


Karl

It's the way forward Karl :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[Karl]

It's in the clamps

The wedges are jarrah. I've had to insert a couple of additional oak wedges where my through tenons were a bit sloppy.

I've learnt a lot from doing this project

The Ashley Isles chisels are fantastic - and can even be whacked with a lignum mallet :lol:

I made the joint more difficult by making the M&T's the full width of the board.

Marking out is key

PU glue is messy (but I knew that already)

I should have used Brads Domino (only joking.......... :shock: )

The glue will be left to dry overnight and i'll scrape any excess off in the morning.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Karl]

Right, a couple of the offending joints which have been been cleaned up

I'm hoping to get the rest of the unit cleaned up and a coat of oil applied once the kids have gone to bed tonight. I'll post final pics tomorrow.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Anonymous]

I am making a little dvd wall unit, and the carcass construction will be with through wedged tenons.

Do you mark the mortice from both sides and create it a little tapered on the wedged side?

Cheers

Karl

I always do this - I made a guide block years ago with a 5 degree slope and use this every time to taper the mortises; just clamp it ot the piece and chop away.
Used 5 degrees on my workbench and it is still rock solid!