cutting the waste part .newbie question

[labuzz]

Hi there,
A newbie question here!
how would you tackle something like this?

the width of the piece is 60mm.
the total thickness is 24mm...I must cut half wood ( 12mm). Sorry about the mistake in the drawing.
the goal is to get rid of the red part with chisels ( 35mm) and saws ( nothing else like planes, powertools...). What is the fastest/safest way to cut the main part of the waste ? What should be the best position of the piece ( start vertical then horizontal? )?This is an exercise.

I know how to mark the piece and finish the details ( paring ).

tky you and be precise!

 

[woodbloke]

Firstly make sure that lines are knifed in rather than with pencil. Use a tenon saw and bench hook to just cut inside the knife lines and saw down to the horizontal waste line, which should be gauged in. Cramp your timber to the bench and then remove the waste from each by paring horizontally in an upward direction, starting at the corner of the red wast piece, until you reach the gauge line. This will leave a triangular section in the middle that can be removed by paring horizontally until the gauge line is again reached and the surface should then be flat. The two saw cuts can be cleaned up by placing a chisel in the knife cut an paring or using a mallet to chop to the line.
Hope of some help - Rob

 

[DaveL]

What Rob said, but I would on something this wide might put a third saw cut in the middle of the waste. This reduces the size of the section being pared and therefore the force required to remove it, easier on the hands.

 

[Philly]

A router like a #71 would be handy for trimming the bottom of your halving joint, too.
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[Paul Chapman]

Firstly make sure that lines are knifed in rather than with pencil. Use a tenon saw and bench hook to just cut inside the knife lines and saw down to the horizontal waste line, which should be gauged in.

If you have any trouble doing the saw cut (or if your saw isn't very good), it can help if you chisel out a sloping piece from the waste to the knife cut which will give the saw a groove to run in. Of course, make sure your chisels are nice and sharp.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[labuzz]

Tky guys,
You cut directly in the knife line with the saw...Not easy ( I have never used a bench hook though ). Not safer to draw another knife line really near the final one and finish with paring the end grain?

 

[woodbloke]

Tky guys,
You cut directly in the knife line with the saw...Not easy ( I have never used a bench hook though ). Not safer to draw another knife line really near the final one and finish with paring the end grain?

I don't cut directly on the line, just a fraction away from it so that there is just a single vertical cut with a chisel to clean up the end grain. The technique that Paul suggests is a good one as well and well worth doing if you are a little rusty :wink: in the use of a tenon saw - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

These are basic techniques, labuzz, so it would be well worthwhile doing plenty of practice on scrap wood until you become proficient. A bench hook, as Rob suggests, is well worth making up (just a piece of MDF, a block of , say, 1" x 1" wood screwed on to hold it in the vice and a similar piece to hold the workpiece against). You will find it far easier to use a bench hook than to hold the workpiece in the vice when sawing.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

how would you tackle something like this?

Mark out the waste ...

Then saw the outline, including kerfing the waste. This makes it easier to chisel it out with control.

End result ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[pam niedermayer]

I strongly recommend using the chisel bevel down to avoid massive tear out.

Pam

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I strongly recommend using the chisel bevel down to avoid massive tear out.

A chisel used face down is self jigging and so far easier to control. As the fellow, like myself, is not an expert, I'd suggest it may be easier to get a good result bevel up - use slicing/skewed cuts or change the bevel angle if tearout proves to be a problem. Bevel down needs greater control, both to avoid digging in and to produce a flat result.
Steve

 

[labuzz]

Many comments! cool and tky again!
Actually I start bevel down for choping ( the chisel has less tendency to plunge into the wood in my experience) then I go bevel up for paring.
Another thing is the fact that I currently prefer to work with the piece laying on his edge for shoping... :roll:
How many time it takes for you to do something like this ?