Cutting mitres for plinths

[matt]

I've reached that point again in a project where I need to cut the mitres for the plinths on a fitted cabinet. I hate cutting mitres at the best of times so generally get by without having to use them. However, it's a bit unavoidable under these circumstances.

So, today... I checked one of the corners and found that the angle is dead on 90 degrees, which is a good start. Knocked the mitre saw over to 90 degrees and made a cut. It was not good. The chop saw if fine for straight cuts but angles (ironically) go all out of bonk.

So... I tried the tablesaw instead. Much better.

Nevertheless, I did find myself wondering what tricks/secrets others employ to get a good mitre? I hear a lot about shooting boards but once cut to length how can you afford to start nipping bits off the end?

 

[Shultzy]

I think the "secret" is to cut oversize and then trim to exact length on the shooting board. I personally use a disk on my lathe and sand to length.

 

[seanybaby]

I also use a jig for a disc sander. Inlay easy, 8' of plinth just as easy with a polish man supporting, or a roller support stand, which ever comes to hand :lol:

 

[Derek Willis.]

I always use my shooting board to get supreme accuracy.
Derek.

 

[newt]

Cut and shoot

 

[woodbloke]

For pin point accuracy, mitres really need to be cut and shot in as Pete suggests. If you have a very, very accurate tablesaur where the settings are guaranteed to be accurate, then they can come straight off the saw...but I think you need to be looking at Felderish to do this sort of work - Rob

 

[Night Train]

Cut over size and shoot on a board, it's the only way to be sure.

However, I have seen joiners doing this on a mitre saw.
They first set to 45 deg and cut both pieces of the joint. They then dry assemble and test fit.
If it doesn't fit then they go back to the saw and make a slight adjustment to the cut, not by moving the saw but by adding a shim to the bed to lift the work at one end to open or close the mitre angle a littl bit. This is done by trial and error until one corner is spot on.
The other corner of the plinth is then cut to match using the same shim setting but cut slightly over length. If it is still correct then a final cut to length is made, if not then it is reshimmed.
Each recut is just a skim of the cut across the face of the mitre.

 

[jhwbigley]

I also use a jig for a disc sander. Inlay easy, 8' of plinth just as easy with a polish man supporting, or a roller support stand, which ever comes to hand :lol:

:lol:

 

[Grinding One]

Did you ever see a Wixley Gage? Has magnates on bottom sticks to your blade zero it the set the degree of cut.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

If it doesn't fit then they go back to the saw and make a slight adjustment to the cut, not by moving the saw but by adding a shim to the bed to lift the work at one end to open or close the mitre angle a little bit.

That's because the thickness of a shim often makes a fraction of a degree's difference. Also a useful technique to accommodate any out of squareness in architraves, etc although in that case the shim is between the material and the back fence and a firm grip of the work is required